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PILGRIM  MEMORIALS, 


GUIDE 


VISITORS  TO  PLYMOUTH  TILLAGE: 


A     LITHOGRAPHIC     MAP, 


SEVEN  COPPERPLATE  ENGRAVINGS. 
By  WM.  S.  RUSSELL, 

RECORBING      SECRETARY      OP      THE      PILGRIM      SOCIETY. 


Yea,  when  the  fro-wning  bulwarks 

That  guard  this  holy  strand 
Have  sunk  beneath  the  trampling  surge 

In  beds  of  sparkling  sand, 
While  in  the  waste  ot  ocean 

One  hoary  rock  shall  stand, 
Be  this  its  latest  legend  — 

IIere  was  the  Pilgrim's  Lank. 

Oliver  Wendell  Holmes. 


BOSTON: 

PRINTED   FOR   THE  AUTHOR,  BY  C.  C.  P.  MOODY, 

Old  Dickinson  Office  — 52  Washington  Street. 

1851. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1851, 

By  V>M.  S.  RUSSELL, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  District  of  Massachusetts. 


PREFACE 


The  following  pages  are  designed  to  afford 
the  means  of  ready  access  to  the  more  promi- 
nent events  and  interesting  localities  connected 
with  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims  to  which  the 
attention  of  visitors  is  naturally  directed  on 
their  first  arrival  at  Plymouth. 

Under  the  different  heads,  as  arragned  in  the 
Index,  (pp.  vii.  and  viii.)  full  descriptions  will  be 
found  of  Forefather's  Rock,  the  Ship  Mayflower, 
Buti^ying  Hill,Leyden  Street,  Cole's  Hill,  Clark's 
Island,  Pilgrim  Hall,  and  other  points  of  an- 
tiquarian interest,  which,  with  the  aid  of  a 
lithographic  map  of  Plymouth  Village,  having 
explanatory  references  appended,  and  seven 
copperplate  engravings,  tending  to  illustrate  Hhe 
very  age  and  body  of  the  time,'  it  is  believed 


IV 

will,  in  some  good  measure,  answer  the  inquiries 
of  the  visitor,  and  accomplish  the  object  aimed 
at  in  this  publication. 

The  undersigned  improves  the  present  occa- 
sion, to  inform  the  numerous  friends  who  have 
expressed  their  interest  in  a  proposed  second 
edition  of  the  '  Guide  to  Plymouth  and  Kecol- 
lections  of  the  Pilgrims,'  that  the  same  is  in 
progress,  and  will  appear  whenever  the  requisite 
time  can  be  spared  from  the  claims  of  other 
duties,  to  insure  its  satisfactory  completion. 

WM.  S.  KUSSELL. 
Plymouth,  August,  1851. 


EXPLANATION  OF  ENGRAVINGS, 


1st.  Lithographic  Map  of  Plymouth  Village. 

2d.    View  of  Plymouth  from  the  Buri^ing  Hill. 

3cl.    Landing  of  the  Pilgrims  at  Plymouth,  Dec.  11,*  1620. 

4th.  Fac  Similes.  Brewster,  Bradford,  Winslow,  Standish 
and  AUerton  came  in  the  Mayflower ;  the  others  came 
in  the  Fortune  or  Ann,  excepting  Constant  and  Thomas 
Southworth,  who  came  about  the  year  162<S. 

5th.  This  house  shows  the  best  style  of  building  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  seventeenth  century.  The  lot  on  which  it 
stood  was  owned  by  Robert  Hicks,  merchant,  in  1645. 
It  was  afterwards  owned  by  Edward  Gray,  who  sold 
it  to  John  Richard,  in  1677.  The  house  was  taken 
down  in  1826,  and  was  the  oldest  in  town.  The  Uni- 
versalist  church  stands  on  the  same  lot.  In  this  house 
the  mother  of  the  celebrated  patriot,  James  Otis,  was 
born,  in  1702.  She  was  the  grand  daughter  of  Edward 
Doty,  who  came  in  the  Mayflower. 

6th.  The  Fuller  Cradle  belonged  to  Dr.  Samuel  Fuller,  who 
came  in  the  Mayflower,  and  is  now  owned  by  Mrs. 
Olive  Noyes,  a  descendant  and  the  wife  of  Jacob 
Noyes,  Esq.,  of  Abington. 

7th.  The  apple  tree  was  planted  by  Peregrine  White,  the  first 
Englishman  born  in  New  England,  about  the  year 
1648,  who  died  in  1704,  in  the  84th  year  of  his  age. 
It  still  produces  apples,  and  the  orchard  in  which  it 
grows  is  now  owned  by  his  descendants,  near  the  lot 
which  he  occupied,  in  Marshfield. 

*  Dec.  21.     New  Style. 


INDEX. 


Adventurous  merchants  of  London, — their  agreement  with  the 
Pilgrims, 

Adams,  John  Quincy,  remarks  on  the  compact  signed  in  the 
cabin  of  the  Mayflower, 

Adams,  John  Quincy,  remarks  on  the  rights  of  the  Indians,  &c., 

Arnold,  brig  Gen.,  shipwreck  of  in  Plymouth  Harbor, 

Ann,  ship,  Alphabetical  list  of  passengers, 

Burying  Hill,  description  of,  history  and  epitaphs,     . 

Billington  Sea,  description  and  history  of, 

Bushnell,  Rev.  Dr.,  remarks  on  the  Mayflower,  note, 

Bryant,  William  C,  respecting  Pilgrims, 

Brodhead,  J.  Romevn,  introductory  note  to  Isaack  de  Rasieres's 
letter,  .    ' 

Brodhead,  J.  Romeyn,  researches  in  Europe  for  ancient  docu- 
ments, note, 

Butler,  Benjamin  F.,  description  of  New  Netherland,  its  early 
settlement,  &c., 

Bradford,  Gov.,  extract  from  his  letter  to  Tsaack  de  Rasieres, 

Burke,  Edmund,  quotations  from  his  speech  in  the  B.  Parliament, 

Beans,  peas,  and  corn,  exportation  prohibited,  .... 

Cole's  Hill,  the  first  burial  place  of  the  Pilgrims,  description  of, 

Clark's  Island,  description  and  history  of,    . 

Cape  Cod,  account  of  and  population, 

Captain's  Hill,  the  home  of  Standish.  extract  from  his  will, 

Choate,  Rufus,  on  the  sufl'erings  of  the  Pilgrims  during  the  win 
ter  of  1620,  

Choate,  Rufus,  on  the  burial  of  the  Pilgrims, 

"  "      on  Embarkation  of  the  Pilgrims  at  Delft  Haven, 

Carlyle,  Thomas,  on  the  Puritans  and  Mayflower,     . 

Compact  signed  on  board  the  ]\Iayflower  at  Cape  Cod, 

Church,  Pilgrim,  place  of  meeting  in  England  ascertained, 

Church  first  erected  by  the  Pilgrims, 

Churches  in  Plvmouth  in  1851, 

Cattle,  division"" of,  in  1627,     .       - 


Dwight,  Timothy,  remarks  on  Plymouth  Rock, 

Davis,  Samuel,  "  '*  ... 

De  Tocqueville's         "  "  .... 

Dutch  nation,  its  tonnage,  &c.  in  1620,  note, 

Dutch  Embassy  from  New  Netherland  to  Plymouth  Colony, 

1627 

De  Eaisieres's  letter  to  Gov.  Bradford, 

"  "  S.  Blommaert,  after  his  visit  in  1627, 

"  minute  description  of  Plymouth,  its  defence,  &c 

"  note  on  same,  and  explanations, 

"  manner  of  attending  church,  &c., 

Davis,  Samuel,  remarks  on  Manomet  Bay, 
Dwelling  houses  to  be  covered  with  board  or  pale. 
Embarkation  of  the  Pilgrims  at  Delft  Haven,  in  Holland,     . 
Everett,  Edward,  description  of  the  Mayflower  on  approaching 

the  New  England  coast, 

Engravings  and  explanation, 

Fortune,  ship,  alphabetical  list  of  passengers,    . 


Page. 

16 

20 
131 
47 
125 
36 
62 
17 
15 

110 

110 

104 
106 
96 
100 
55 
59 
96 
73 

33 

57 

85 

25 

18 

2 

34 

145 

102-3 

13 

13 

14 

4 

103* 
108 
113 
116 
121 
116 
122 
102 
82 

26 

125 


VUl 


Errata, 


Hunter,  Joseph,  of  England,  his  mvestigations  respecting  the  Pil 

grims,  

Howland,  John,  his  epitaph,  .... 

"  "      his  homestead, 

"        Jon.,  of  Providence,  his  age  corrected,  see 
Hutchinson,  remarks  on  the  Pilgrims, 
Hopkins,  Stephen,  his  homestead, 
Handicraftsmen  forbidden  to  work  for  strangers, 
Jury  trial  established, — copy  from  Records, 
Leyden  street,  description  and  history  of, 

Lands,  division  of, 

Mayflower,  description  of,  and  history, 

"  names  of  passengers,    .... 

.  "  compact  signed  on  board  of,     . 

Massasoit,  first  interview  with  the  Pilgrims, 

"  treaty  of  peace, 

Mullins,  William  and  Priscilla,  note  on  tradition, 
Magee,  James,  Captain  of  brig  Gen.  Arnold,  his  letter, 

"  "        sketch  of  his  life  and  character,     . 

Manomet  River,  on  Buzzard's  Bay,  description  of,    . 

'*  *'      visit  of  Gov.  Bradford,  to  procure  com, 

"  "      trading-house  there,  its  site  identified, 

New  Xetherland,  Dutch  settlement  there  described, 
Old  Colony  Club,   history  of,  and  first  celebration  of  the  anni 

versary,         .        •        

Otis,  James,  extract  from  his  letter  to  Gov.  Barnard,  respecting 

the  Indians,  note, 

Pilgrim  Hall,  description  of,  and  list  of  curiosities,       , 

Pilgrim  Society,  history  of, 

Proposed  monument  near  Plymouth  Rock, 

Pilgrims,  brief  account  of  previous  to  their  arrival  in  America, 

"        place  of  worship  in  England,  .... 

"        embarkation  for  Holland,  .... 

"  "  from  Delft  Haven,  in  Holland, 

Plymouth,  description  of,  and  boundaries,     .... 

"  Harbor, 

"         Populationof  at  difierent  periods, 

"  Fisheries, 

"         Lakes  and  ponds, 

"         Manufactures, 

"  Beach,  

Rock,  Forefather's,  description  of,  and  history, 
^Records  of  Plymouth  Colony, 

"  "  "        Extracts  from,    .... 

Saltonstall,  Leverett,  on  our  early  history, 
Samoset,  his  interA'iew  with  the  Pilgrims,  Mar.  16,  1621, 

"         "  "        introduced  in  Sargent's  painting. 

Sagamore  Hill  at  ]\Ianomet  described, 

Timber  prohibited  from  exportation, 

Watson's  Hill,  description  of,  and  history,  .... 

Winslow,  J]dward,  sale  to  Miles  Standish,  six  shares  in  Red  Cow 
Webster,  Daniel,  on  the  Landing  of  the  Pilgrims, 
Weir's  Painting  of  the  embarkation  at  Delft  Haven,  in  1620, 


Page. 


PILGRIM   MEMORIALS,   ETC 


A  Brief  Account  of  the  Pilgrims ^i^revious  to  their  Arrival 
in  America. 

'  We  have  an  advantage  over  all  nations  in  being  able  to  trace  our 
history  from  the  beginning.  We  have  no  fabulous  age,  but  it  has  more 
romance  than  any  which  has  ever  been  written.' — Saltonstall. 

It  is  well  known,  that  the  removal  of  the  Pilgrims 
from  England  to  Holland,  whence  they  afterwards 
sailed  to  America,  was  one  of  the  results  of  that  great 
religious  movement  during  the  latter  part  of  the  six- 
teenth and  the  first  part  of  the  seventeenth  centuries, 
which  for  a  long  time  convulsed  and  eventually  revo- 
lutionized England  itself. 

It  was  at  the  closing  period  of  Queen  Elizabeth's 
reign,  in  the  year  sixteen  hundred  and  two,  a  period  of 
ardent  excitement  in  relation  to  the  gi*eat  objects  of 
human  pursuit ;  when  the  progressive  influence  of  the 
Reformation,  earnestly  engaged  the  attention  of  every 
thoughtful  mind  ;  when  the  recently  discovered  art  of 
printing  facilitated  the  dissemination  of  knowledge,  and 
new  discoveries  by  successive  navigators  had  widely 
enlarged  the  bounds  of  commercial  enterprise  ;  that  we 
first  trace  our  Pilgrim  Fathers,  in  the  north  of  England, 
manfully   contending    against   the   principalities    and 


powers,  which    denied  them    'the  liberty  wherewith 
Christ  had  made  them  free.' 

Though  few  in  number,  their  strong  faith,  earnest 
zeal  and  fervent  love,  created  a  bond  of  union  and  an 
intensity  of  purpose,  which  never  deserted  them 
throughout  their  perilous  career;  whether  hunted  at 
home  by  the  adherents  of  hierarchal  oppression,  ex- 
posed to  the  dangers  of  the  deep,  seeking  a  precarious 
subsistence  in  a  strange  land,  or  exploring  the  bleak 
shores  of  Cape  Cod,  amidst  the  rough  blasts  of  a  cheer- 
less winte;. 

In  a  publication  of  Mr.  Joseph  Hunter,  F.  S.  A.,  an 
assistant  keeper  of  Public  Records,  in  England,  which 
appeared  in  August,  1849,  additional  hght  has  been 
thrown  on  the  early  state  of  the  Pilgrim  Church,  and 
the  place  of  its  meeting  has  been  satisfactorily  identi- 
fied, as  will  be  seen  from  the  following  extracts,  taken 
from  that  valuable  pubhcation,  page  7th.  '  But  a 
passage  in  Bradford's  account  of  Brewster  enables  us 
to  fix  not  only  the  town  or  village  at  which  the  church 
held  its  meetings,  but  the  very  house  in  which  they 
assembled  ;  and  to  proceed  at  once  to  the  removal  of 
this  uncertainty,  I  add  that  it  is  manifest  to  any  one 
who  has  an  intimate  knowledge  of  those  parts  of  the 
kingdom,  that  the  seat  and  centre  of  the  church,  while 
it  remained  in  England,  was  at  the  village  of  Scroohy, 
in  Nottinghamshire,  and  in  the  principal  mansion  of 
that  village,  the  house  which  had  been  for  centuries  a 
palace  of  the  Archbishop  of  York,  but  which  was  in 
those  days  held  under  one  of  the  many  leases  of  episco- 
pal lands  granted  by  Archbishop  Sandys. 


^Scroohy  will  be  found  in  the  maps,  about  a  mile  and 
a  half  south  of  Bawtiy,  a  market  and  post  town  situ- 
ated on  the  borders  of  Yorkshire  and  Nottinghamshire. 
The  nearest  point  of  the  county  of  Lincoln,  is  distant 
six  or  seven .  miles.' 

The  same  writer  states,  on  page  11th,  that  '  the 
house  fell  by  degrees  into  decay.  No  portion  of  it  is 
now  standing,  yet  the  site  may  be  traced  by  a  few 
irregularities  in  the  surface  of  the  ground.' 

It  is  highly  gratifying  thus  to  learn  from  unques- 
tionable authority,  a  fact  so  important  as  that  above 
stated,  the  identification  of  the  spot  and  building 
where  the  Pilgrim  Church  first  worshipped  in  England  ; 
a  fact  so  long  concealed  from  all  previous  enquiry,  the 
development  of  which  at  this  late  day,  may  justly  in- 
spire the  hope,  that  diligent  and  persevering  investiga- 
tions in  future,  on  kindred  subjects,  will  be  crowned 
with  similar  success. 

In  the  year  1607,  not  long  after  the  actual  organiza- 
tion of  the  church,  under  the  care  of  John  Robisori 
and  "William  Brewster,  the  precise  date  of  which  or- 
ganization seems  not  to  have  been  accurately  ascer- 
tained, as  appears  from  Mr.  Hunter's  remarks,  they 
concluded  to  remove  from  their  native  country  to  avoid 
the  persecution  which  assailed  them  on  every  side. 

In  the  year  1608,  after  the  failure  of  a  previous 
attempt,  they  arrived  at  Amsterdam,  in  Holland,  and 
in  less  than  one  year,  again  removed  to  the  city  of 
Leyden,  at  which  place  they  continued  and  ably  sus- 
tained public  worship,  under  the  ministrations  of  their 
accomplished  and  venerated  pastor,  till  their  embark- 


ation  at  Delft  Haven,  in  the  ship  Speedwell,  of  60  tons 
burthen,  on  the  22  of  July,  1620,*  from  whence  they 
reached  South  Hanripton,  in  England,  to  join  the  May- 
flower; and  on  the  5th  day  of  August  both  vessels 
sailed  from  that  port,  to  execute  the  long  cherished 
purpose  of  emigration  to  America. 

By  heartless  Bigots  basely  spurned^ 
From  Tyrant  power  resolved  they  turned^ 
And  sought  in  Western  wilds  to  meet, 
Some  spot  to  rest  their  weary  feet,. 
Some  spot  to  rear  their  house  of  Prayer, 
Beyond  the  mitre's  angry  glare. 
To  fix  the  reign  of  conscience  free,. 
Despite  of  Rome's  imperial  see, 
That  Church  and  State  no  more  combinecJ, 
With  iron  grasp  the  soul  should  bind, 
"VMiere  freedom  wmged  might  raptured  roam 
And  find  at  last,  a  genial  Home. 

They  had  not  proceeded  far,  however,  before  Mr. 
Reynolds,  of  the  Speedwell,  complained  that  his  ship 
was  in  so  leaky  a  condition  that  he  feared  to  proceed 
further ;  and  on  the  13th  of  August  both  vessels  put 
into  Dartmouth.     The   Speedwell  having  undergone 

*  '  Without  entering  into  particulars,  it  is  suflScient  to  state,  as  illustrative 
of  the  trade  of  Holland,  that  in  1690,  when  it  had  attained  to  a  maximum, 
Sir  William  Petty  estimated  the  whole  shipping  of  Europe  at  2,000,000  tons, 
of  which  he  supposed  the  Butch  to  possess  900,000  tons,  and  it  is  believed 
that  this  estimate  was  rather  witliin,  than  beyond  the  mark.'  —  McOuW>ck'& 
Gazetteer,  Edit.  1S33. 

It  is  perhaps  well  deserving  our  attention,,  as  illustrating  the  growth  of 
commerce  in  America,  that  our  present  tonnage  exceeds  that  owned  by  all 
Europe,  at  the  time  of  embarkation,  when  our  rivers,  bays  and  oceans  pos- 
sessed no  better  means  of  water  communication,  than  a  birch  canoe,  or  by 
way  of  improvement,  a  log  of  the  larger  class,  dug  out,  with  much  labor,  by 
some  Indian  shipwrighL 


what  were  deemed  adequate  repairs,  both  vessels  put 
to  sea  again  on  the  21st  of  August.  After  proceeding 
about  one  hundred  leagues  beyond  the  land's  end  of 
England,  Mr.  Reynolds  again  complained  of  his  ship, 
and  the  danger  of  foundering,  if  they  proceeded  on  the 
voyage,  when  both  vessels  entered  the  harbor  of  Ply- 
mouth. On  a  second  examination  of  the  Speedwell, 
no  particular  injury  seemed  to  have  been  sustained, 
and  the  general  weakness  of  the  ship  was  assigned  as 
the  cause  of  difficulty,  though  it  afterwards  appear- 
ed, that  the  deception  of  Reynolds  and  others  was  the 
main  cause  of  the  serious  and  repeated  delays  to  which 
they  had  been  subjected,  and  which  proved  highly  in- 
jurious to  their  future  interests.  It  was  now  deter- 
mined to  dismiss  the  Speedwell,  and  such  part  of  the 
whole  company  as  could  not  be  accommodated  in  the 
Mayflower.*  It  was  decided  that  Mr.  Cushman  and 
his  family,  and  others,  about  twenty  in  all,  should 
retm-n  to  London.  Another  sad  parting  scene  occur- 
red, and  the  Mayfloiver^  on  the  6th  day  of  September, 
once  more  spread  her  canvass  to  a  favorable  breeze. 
But  the  fair  prospects  which  cheered  the  pilgrims, 
when  leaving  the  shores  of  England  for  the  last  time, 

*  Thouf^h  it  is  not  improbable,  that  as  respected  some  of  the  passengers 
app  linted  to  return  in  the  Speedwell  with  Mr.  Cushman,  reference  was  had 
to  their  relative  ability  to  aid  in  the  arduous  labor  of  establishing  the  in- 
tended colon)',  there  seems  no  reason  to  conclude,  as  some  historians  have 
intimated  and  asserted,  that  they  were  timid  or  discouraged.  The  spirit,  not 
of  fear,  but  of  a  sound  mind,  appears  to  have  generally  pervaded  the  whole 
body  of  emigrants  ;  and  Robert  Cushman  was  the  last  individual  amojDg 
them  on  whose  character  for  self-devotion,  intelligence  and  courage,  the 
slightest  breath  of  suspicion  should  rest. 


6 


were  soon  clouded  ;  contrary  winds  opposed  their  pro- 
gress ;  fierce  storms  assailed  them  ;  the  upper  works 
of  the  ship  were  injured,  and  she  became  leaky ;  one  of 
the  main  beams  was  wrenched  from  its  place  ;  serious 
doubts  existed  whether  it  w^ould  be  practicable  to  pur- 
sue the  voyage  ;  and  a  consultation  of  the  principal 
seamen  and  passengers  was  held.  But  the  ship  prov- 
ing strong  under  water,  the  beam  was  restored  to  its 
proper  position  by  means  of  a  screw,  strongly  secured 
by  the  carpenter,  and  they  continued  their  voyage. 
'And  so,  after  many  boisterous  storms,  in  which  they 
could  bear  no  sail,  but  were  forced  to  lie  at  hull  for 
many  days  together,  after  long  being  at  sea,  (on  the 
9th  of  Nov.)  they  fell  in  with  the  land,  called  Cape 
Cod,  the  which  being  made  and  certainly  known  to  be 
it,  they  were  not  a  little  joyful.' 

FOREFATHERS'  ROCK. 

A  Kock  in  the  wilderness  welcomed  onr  sires,  v. 

From  bondage  far  over  the  dark  rolling  sea  ; 
On  that  holy  altar  they  kindled  the  fires, 

Jehovah  !  which  glow  in  our  bosoms  for  thee. 

Ano'ymous. 

The  Forefathers'  Rock,  so  attractive  to  the  curiosity 
of  visitors,  excepting  that  part  of  it  which  is  now 
enclosed  within  the  railing  in  front  of  Pilgrim  Halh 
retains  the  same  position  it  occupied  two  hundred  and 
thirty  years  ago,  when  the  founders  of  New  Eng- 
land first  landed  on  our  shores,  and  introduced  the  arts 
of  civilization,  the  institutions  of  religion,  civil  govern- 


ment  and  education,  upon  the  ba&is  of  just  and  equal 
rights,  which  from  that  memorable  day  to  the  present 
time,  have  secured  the  general  good  of  the  whole  com- 
munity, to  an  extent  probably  unexampled  in  any  equal 
period  of  human  experience, 

'  It  is  not  a  little  curious  that  one  loose  rock  on  the 
shore  of  Plymouth  harbor,  should  have  become  so  fa- 
mous as  is  that  called  the  "  Pilgi'im  Rock,"  where 
there  is  not  known  in  the  township  a  single  ledge  save 
those  the  fisherman  reaches  with  his  lead  at  various 
points  of  the  coast.  "  Pilgrim  Rock  "  is  one  of  these 
boulders  —  itself  an  older  pilgrim  than  those  who 
landed  on  it.  It  is  an  extremely  hard  variety  of  Sien- 
itic  granite,  of  a  dark  gi'ey  color.  The  mica  is  in  very 
small  quantity,  in  fine  black  particles.  The  rock,  by 
its  rounded  edges,  bears  evidence  of  its  rolled  charac- 
ter, as  well  as  of  the  attempts  to  break  specimens  from 
it ;  which  fortunately  its  extreme  hardness  renders  sel- 
dom successful.  This  rock  is  now  in  two  pieces,  each 
piece  about  four  feet  through.'*  That  part  now  at  the 
water's  side  is  about  six  and  a  half  feet  in  diameter, 
and  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  store  now  occu- 
pied by  Phinheas  Wells,  at  the  head  of  Hedge's  wharf, 
a  few  feet  only  from  the  same. 

The  visitor  frequently  inquires,  is  this  the  veritable 
rock  which  first  received  the  Pilgiims  ?  Happily  we 
are  able  to  answer  his  question  with  perfect  confidence. 

Besides  the  general  and  undisputed  tradition  which 
designates  it  as  that  on  which  the  fathers  landed,  it 

*  Extract  from  a  Geological  Account  of  Plymouth. 


8 


was  ascertained  to  be  the  same  on  an  interesting 
occasion  in  the  life  of  Elder  Thomas  Faunce,  the  last 
ruling  elder  in  the  first  church  of  Plymouth,  who  was 
born  in  the  year  1646,  and  died  in  the  year  1745,  at 
the  advanced  age  of  ninety-nine  years.  In  the  year 
1741,  the  elder  upon  learning  that  a  wharf  was  about 
to  be  built  near,  or  over  the  rock,  which  up  to  that 
period  had  kept  its  undisturbed  position  at  the  water's 
edge,  and  fearing  that  the  march  of  improvement 
might  subject  it  to  injury,  expressed  much  uneasiness. 
Though  residing  three  miles  from  the  village  of  Plym- 
mouth,  and  then  in  declining  health,  he  left  home, 
and  in  the  presence  of  many  citizens,  pointed  out  the 
rock  we  have  described  as  being  that  on  Vvhich  the 
Pilgrims  with  whom  he  v/as  cotemporary,  and  well  ac- 
quainted, had  uniformly  declared  to  be  the  same  on 
which  they  landed  in  1620.  Upon  this  occasion  this 
venerable  and  excellent  man  took  a  final  leave  of  this 
cherished  memorial  of  the  fathers.  The  cu-cumstances 
above  related,  were  frequently  mentioned  by  the  late 
Hon.  Ephraim  Spooner,  deceased,  Vv^ho  was  present 
upon  the  occasion  connected  with  Elder  Faunce.  He 
was  deacon  of  the  Church  of  Plymouth  forty-one  years, 
and  fifty-two  years  town  clerk,  and  died  March,  1818, 
aged  eighty-three  years.  The  same  information  was 
communicated  by  ]\Irs.  Jonana  White,  widow  of  Gid- 
eon "White,  deceased,  who  was  intimately  acquainted 
in  the  family  of  Eider  Faunce.  She  died  in  1810,  aged 
ninety-five  years.  And  the  same  account  has  been 
transmitted  by  other  aged  persons,  now  deceased,  with- 
in the  recollection  of  many  now  Hving. 


On  the  anniversary  celebration  of  the  landing  of  the 
fathers,  in  1817,  the  late  Rev.  Horace  Holly,  deceased, 
delivered  the  customary  address,  and  upon  the  morn- 
ing of  that  day  had  some  hours'  conversation  with  dea- 
con Spooner,  above  mentioned,  in  relation  to  early 
times,  and  among  other  interesting  reminiscences  learn- 
ed from  him  the  incidents  above  narrated.  Deacon 
Spooner  had  for  many  years  been  accustomed  to  read 
the  hymn  '  Hail  Pilgrims,'  line  by  line,  according  to  an 
ancient  practice  of  the  church,  and  on  this  occasion 
officiated  for  the  last  time.  Mr.  Holly,  inspired  by  his 
theme  and  the  interview,  in  the  course  of  his  eloquent 
address,  happily  observed,  '  our  venerable  friend  knew 
and  conversed  with  Elder  Faunce,  who  personally 
knew  the  first  settlers,  so  Polycarp  conversed  with  St. 
John,  the  beloved  disciple  of  our  Saviour.' 

In  the  year  1774,  some  ardent  whigs,  to  render 
available  the  patriotic  associations  connected  with  the 
rock,  undertook  its  removal  to  the  town  square,  with 
the  intention  to  place  over  it  a  liberty  pole,  as  an  ex- 
citement to  vigorous  efforts  in  the  approaching  revolu- 
tionary struggle,  and  to  quicken  the  zeal  of  such  persons 
as  hesitated  to  join  the  standard  of  independence.  In 
this  attempt  at  removal,  the  rock  split  asunder,  which 
excited,  as  tradition  avers,  gi*eat  surprise  among  the 
citizens  present,  and  by  some  was  construed  into  a 
favorable  omen,  indicating  the  final  separation  of  the 
colonies  from  the  mother  country.  This  unexpected 
accident  led  to  some  hesitation  among  the  excited 
group  assembled,  and  the  conclusion  was  to  lower  the 
under  part  of  the  rock  into  its  original  bed,  from  which 


10 


it  had  been  elevated,  and  the  other  part  was  drawn  by- 
twenty  yoke  of  oxen  to  the  Town  Square  ;  when  the 
far  famed  liberty  pole  was  speedily  erected  over  it,  on 
which  an  appropriate  poetic  effusion  of  some  ardent 
son  of  liberty  was  placed,  urging  the  citizens  to  re- 
newed efforts  in  the  cause  of  his  country. 

These  circumstances,  in  connection  with  the  increas- 
ing curiosity  of  visitors,  each  of  whom  sought  a  small 
fragment,  if  no  more,  have  sensibly  diminished  the  size 
of  the  rock,  rendering  it  necessary  to  prevent  such  de- 
predations in  future,  lest  the  '  first  stepping  stone  to 
those  who  should  come  after,'  might  at  last  fail  of  a 
*  local  habitation  and  a  name.'  These  considerations, 
it  is  hoped,  may  in  some  degree  reheve  the  disappoint- 
ment occasionally  expressed  by  strangers,  on  first  view- 
ing this  rock.  It  should  further  be  recollected  that  a 
mammoth  rock  of  granite  would  have  been  inconven- 
ient for  the  purpose  of  landing  —  particularly  to  the 
w^omen  and  children  who  shared  in  the  glorious  event. 
It  is  gratifying  to  announce,  that  a  public  town 
meeting  was  recently  held,  at  which  it  was  voted  to 
convey  sufficient  land  to  certain  individuals,  for  the 
purpose  of  removing  the  store  of  Mr.  Hedge,  northward 
and  eastward,  leaving  room  to  erect  a  suitable  monu- 
ment near  the  rock,  and  to  enclose  the  same  with  an 
iron  railing,  reserving  sufficient  land  for  an  unincum- 
bered walk  round  it.  It  has  long  been  a  subject  of  re- 
gret, that  this  memorial  of  the  Landing  has  remained 
in  its  present  situation,  and  there  can  be  no  doubt,  that 
New  England  will  cheerfully  bestow  the  moderate  sum 
required  for  an  appropriate  monument.     On  the  fourth 


11 


of  July,  1834,  that  part  of  the  rock  which  had  been 
taken  to  the  town  square,  was  removed  and  placed  in 
front  of  Pilgi'im  Hall,  enclosed  within  an  iron  railing 
prepared  for  its  reception,  on  which  is  inscribed  the 
names  of  the  forty-one  individuals  who  subscribed  the 
compact  on  board  the  Mayflower,  at  Cape  Cod  har- 
bor, Nov.  11,  1620. 

The  honor  of  first  stepping  upon  the  rock  is  claimed 
by  the  descendants  of  Mary  Chilton,  in  her  behalf,  and 
also  by  those  of  John  Alden,  in  his  favor — resting 
upon  tradition  in  both  families.  It  is  evident  that 
neither  of  them  had  the  honor  of  first  landing  upon  it. 
This  occurred  on  the  11th  of  Nov.  1620,  old  style,  cor- 
responding to  Dec.  21st,  new  style,  when  the  shallop 
of  the  Mayflower  having  left,  on  the  6th  of  December, 
the  harbor  of  Cape  Cod,  coasted  along  the  shore  and 
was  finally  driven  by  storm  into  Plymouth,  and  found 
shelter  at  Clark's.  Island.  The  shallop  at  this  time  had 
on  board  ten  of  the  pilgi'ims,  who  had  signed  the  com- 
pact, whose  names  were  as  follows :  Capt.  Standish, 
Master  Carver,  William  Bradford,  Edward  AVinsIow, 
John  Tilley,  Edward  Tilley,  John  Howland,  Richard 
Warren,  Stephen  Hopkins,  and  Edward  Dotey  —  from 
which  it  appears  that  John  Alden  was  not  among  the 
number  who  first  stepped  on  the  rock.  Besides  the  ten 
pilgrims  above  named,  there  were  eight  seamen,  mak- 
ing in  all,  eighteen  persons.  The  Mayflower  arrived  and 
anchored  about  one  and  a  half  miles  from  the  town, 
between  Clark's  Island  and  Beach  Point.  When  the 
passengers  went  on  shore,  in  the  ship's  boat,  it  is  not 
improbable  that  some  rivalship  occurred  between  Mary 


12 


Chilton  and  John  Alden  as  to  which  should  first  land 
on  the  rock :  and  the  young  gallant  doubtless  yielded 
his  claim  to  the  lady  —  as  might  have  been  expected 
of  the  modest  youth,  who  afterwards  became  the 
favored  choice  of  Priscilla  Mullens.*     The  conclusion, 

*  Tradition  states,  that  Captain  Standish,  after  the  death  of  his  wife,  pro- 
posed a  matrimonial  alliance  with  Miss  Mullens,  the  daughter  of  William 
Mullens,  and  that  John  Alden  was  engaged  as  the  messenger  to  announce 
his  wishes.  But  the  lad3',  it  seems,  not  so  much  enamored  with  the  mili- 
tary renown  of  Standish  as  by  the  engaging  address  of  the  youthful  advo- 
cate, dexterously  hinted  her  opinion  to  that  effect,  by  which  course  an  end 
was  put  to  all  hope  on  the  part  of  the  distinguished  military  leader  of  the 
pilgrims. 

Without  intending  to  discredit  this  ancient  tradition,  which  has  so  long 
held  its  claim  undisputed,  in  the  families  descended  from  Alden  and  Chil- 
ton, there  seems  to  be  sufficient  grounds,  for  entering  a  protest,  against  the 
unbounded  license  assumed  by  fiction,  originating  from  various  quarters, 
both  in  a  verbal  and  written  form,  in  relation  to  this  amusing  incident  of 
early  times.  The  following  facts  are  therefore  stated  as  aids  to  truth  in  the 
matter.  Rose,  the  wife  of  Standish,  died  Jan.  29th, — and  William  Mullens, 
/{  2jthe  father  of  Priscilla,  Feb.  21,  162$.  Edward  Winslow  married  the  widow 
"^^  of  Wm.  White,  May  12, 1621,  it  being  the  first  marriage  which  occurred  after 
the  lauding.  John  Alden  and  Miss  Mullens  were  probably  married  in  the 
Spring  of  1622,  or  the  preceding  fall. 

Bearing  in  mind  these  facts,  it  seems  hardly  credible  that  Standish,  so  soon 
after  the  decease  of  his  beautiful  and  excellent  wife,  for  such,  tradition  assures 
us,  she  was, — that  within  a  month,  "  nay,  not  so  much,"  he  should  propose 
a  renewal  of  the  matrimonial  bonds,  so  suddenly  severed,  in  the  saddest 
hour  of  even  Pilgrim  experience.  It  is  gratifying  in  this  case,  that  tra- 
dition and  the  facts  of  history  may  pleasantly  harmonize,  under  the  guid- 
ance of  rational  probabilities,  leaving  us  to  infer,  that  no  leave  was  asked  of 
Mr.  Mullens,  in  person  or  by  proxy,  to  visit  his  daughter,  but  that  the  em- 
bassy of  Alden,  was  to  the  maiden  herself,  sometime  after  ;  that  as  no  cattle 
were  imported  into  the  Colony  till  the  j'ear  1623,  of  course,  no  animal  of  that 
species  was  here  found,  to  be  "  covered  "  with  "  a  handsome  piece  of  broad- 
cloth ;  "  that  as  the  Town  of  Barnstable  was  not  settled  till  the  year  1639, 
some  eighteen  years  subsequent,  when  all  the  parties  were  happily  settled  in 
the  same  neighborhood  in  old  Duxbury  ;  therefore,  the  bridal  party  and  the 
novel  cavalcade,  which  figure  so  largely  in  the  story,  on  proceeding  to,  and 
returning  from  the  nuptial  ceremonies  of  the  transported  lovers,  are  matters 


13 


therefore,  of  the  late  Samuel  Davis,  Esq.,  may  be  safely 
adopted,  when  he  says,  '  We  are  disposed,  however,  to 
generalize  the  anecdote.  The  first  generation  doubt- 
less knew  who  came  on  shore  in  the  first  boats ;  the 
second  generation  related  it  with  less  identity ;  the 
fourth  with  still  less  :  like  the  stone  thrown  on  the 
calm  lake,  the  circles  well  defined  at  first,  become 
fainter  as  they  recede.  For  the  purpose  of  the  arts, 
however,  a  female  figure,  typical  of  faith,  hope  and 
charity,  is  well  adapted.' 

The  late  Dr.  Dwight,  President  of  Yale  College,  who 
visited  Plymouth  in  the  year  1800,  expresses  himself 
respecting  the  rock  in  the  following  manner :  '  No 
New  Englander  who  is  wiUing  to  indulge  his  native 
feelings,  can  stand  upon  the  rock,  where  our  ancestors 
set  the  first  foot  after  their  arrival  on  the  American 
shore,  without  experiencing  emotions  very  different 
from  those  which  are  excited  by  any  common  object  of 
the  same  nature.  No  New  Englander  could  be  willing 
to  have  that  rock  buried  and  forgotten.  Let  him  rea- 
son as  much,  as  coldly,  and  ingeniously  as  he  pleases, 
he  will  still  regard  that  spot  with  emotions  wholly  dif- 
ferent from  those  excited  by  other  places  of  equal  or 
greater  importance.' 


assignable,  to  some  after  period,  when  time  and  circumstances  rendered  them 
entirely  suitable  and  appropriate.  We  are  justified  in  assuming,  that  a  "flirt- 
ation "  actually  occurred  at  the  commencement  of  "  good  Old  Colony  times," 
and  that  Cupid  and  Afars  were  in  open  conflict — that  Miss  Mullins  was  irre- 
sistibly attractive  in  person,  manners  and  character,  since  a  military  hero 
■yrz&  fairly  conquered,  never  before  known  to  surrender,  being  severely  but 
not  mortally  wounded  ;  as  a  certain  skilful  lady,  who  came  over  in  the  ship 
Ann,  in  the  year  1623,  was  able  to  effect  a  perfect  cure. 
2 


14 


* '  This  rock  has  become  an  object  of  veneration  in 
the  United  States.  I  have  seen  bits  of  it  carefully 
preserved  in  several  towns  of  the  Union.  Does  not 
this  sufficiently  show  that  all  human  power  and  great- 
ness is  in  the  soul  of  man  ?  Here  is  a  stone  which  the 
feet  of  a  few  outcasts  pressed  for  an  instant ;  and  the 
stone  becomes  famous;  it  is  treasured  by  a  great 
nation ;  its  very  dust  is  shared  as  a  relic.  And  what 
has  become  of  the  gateways  of  a  thousand  palaces  ? 
Who  cares  for  them  ? 

f  '  Beneath  us  is  the  rock,  on  which  New  England 
received  the  feet  of  the  Pilgrims.  We  seem  even  to 
behold  them,  as  they  struggle  with  the  elements,  and 
with  toilsome  efforts  gain  the  shore.  We  listen  to  the 
chiefs  in  council;  we  see  the  unexampled  exhibition 
of  female  fortitude  and  resignation  ;  we  hear  the  whis- 
perings of  youthful  impatience,  and  we  see,  what  a 
painter  of  our  own  has  also  represented  by  his  pencil, 
chilled  and  shivering  childhood,  houseless  but  for  a 
mother's  arms,  couchless,  but  for  a  mother's  breast,  till 
our  own  blood  almost  freezes.  The  mild  dignity  of 
Carver  and  of  Bradford  ;  the  decisive  and  soldierlike 
air  of  Standish  ;  the  devout  Brewster  ;  the  enterprising 
Allerton  ;  the  general  firmness  and  though tfulness  of 
the  whole  band  ;  their  conscious  j  oy  for  dangers  es- 
caped ;  their  deep  solicitude  about  dangers  to  come  ; 
their  trust  in  heaven  ;  their  high  rehgious  faith,  full  of 
confidence  and  anticipation  :  —  all  these  seem  to  be- 
long to  this  place  and  to  be  present  upon  this  occasion, 
to  fill  us  with  reverence  and  admiration.' 

*  De  Tocqueville's  work  on  America. 

t  Webster's  Centennial  Address,  Dec.  22,  1820. 


Si^ 


rl 


? 


lo 


THE  SHIP  MAYFLOWER. 

*  Nobly  the  Mayflower  bows, 
While  the  dark  wave  she  ploughs, 

On  to  the  West ; 
Till  from  the  tempest's  shock, 
Proudly  she  lauds  her  flock, 
Where  on  Old  Plymouth  Rock, 

Freedom  found  rest.'  Dawes. 

The  progress  of  time,  and  the  course  of  human 
events,  have  contributed  to  invest  the  fortunes  of  the 
Mayflower  with  the  deepest  interest,  and  to  confer  upon 
this  once  peaceful  herald  of  freedom  to  our  shores, 
a  celebrity  achieved,  perhaps,  by  no  other  vessel  known 
to  the  annals  of  maritime  enterprise. 

Her  first  voyage  across  the  Atlantic  was  commenced 
under  circumstances  of  obscurity  hardly  attracting  the 
curiosity  of  the  passing  world,  by  men  whose  previous 
history  had  formed  a  school  of  the  severest  trials  in 
defence  of  Christian  liberty,  eminently  adapted  to  pre- 
pare them  for  the  still  sharper  conflicts  and  perils  which 
overhung  the  dubious  horizon  of  their  future  prospects. 
High  and  holy  as  were  their  aspirations  after  righteous- 
ness, truth  and  freedom,  the  most  vivid  imagination 
among  them  must  have  utterly  failed  to  comprehend 
the  vast  influence  they  were  destined  to  exert  on  the 
whole  current  of  human  affairs. 

*  They  little  thought  how  pure  a  light, 

With  years,  should  gather  i-ound  that  day  ; 

How  love  should  keep  their  memories  bright. 

How  wide  a  realm  their  sons  should  swav.'         Bey  ant. 


16 


But  results  have  followed  in  the  wake  of  the  May- 
flower, auspiciously  affecting  the  condition  of  mil- 
lions ;  results,  which  if  the  past  afford  any  just  indica- 
tions of  the  future,  present  but  faint  glimpses  only  of 
what  are  destined  to  appear  in  ages  to  come. 

The  Mayflower,  of  180  tons  burthen,  Capt.  Jones, 
was  chartered  by  the  merchant  adventurers  of  London, 
to  transport  a  part  of  the  Ley  den  Church  to  America — 
the  Speedwell  having  been  procured  in  Holland,  for 
the  same  purpose.  The  conditions  upon  which  the 
Pilgrims  contracted  with  the  Merchant  Adventurers*  of 
London,  as  they  were  called,  for  transporting  the  former 
to  America,  indicate  the  exhausted  state  of  their  pecu- 
niary means,  and  would  probably  never  have  received 
their  assent  under  circumstances  not  imposed  by  abso- 
ll^te  necessity.  On  reference  to  the  articles  of  Agi'ee- 
ment,  which  have  fortunately  been  preserved,  and 
may  be  found  in  the  Guide  to  Plymouth,  and  Recollec- 
tions of  the  Pilgrims,  page  27,  the  reader  will  find,  what 
may  properly  be  called  a  copartnership,  which  contains, 
however,  no  conditions  from  which  it  should  be  inferred, 
that  a  Community  of  Goods,  in  the  true  sense  of  that 
phrase,  was  intended  or  ever  existed  among  the  Pil- 
grims ;  and  no  just  grounds  appear  for  the  hasty,  in- 
considerate opinions  assumed  by  several  historians,  both 
of  an  earlier  and  later  date  that  such  was  the  case. 

As  before   stated,  p.  4,  the   Mayflower  sailed  from 

*  The  celebrated  Capt.  John  Smith,  writing  in  1624,  thus  spealvs  of  them  : 
*  The  Adventurers  which  raised  the  stock  to  begin  and  supply  this  planta- 
tion, were  about  70,  some  merchants,  some  handicraftsmen,  some  adventur- 
ing great  sums,  some  small,  as  their  affections  moved.  These  dwelt  about 
London.' 


17 


Southampton,  Aug.  5th,  1620,*  discovered  Cape  Cod, 
the  9th,  and  achored  in  the  harbor  of  Province  town, 
the  11th  day  of  Nov.  1620  — old  style  —  having  been 
ninety-eight  days  on  the  voyage  to  that  place. 

The  proceedings  at  this  time  are  thus  related  by 
Gov.  Bradford  :  '  This  day,  before  we  came  to  harbor, 
observing  some  not  well  affected  to  unity  and  concord, 
but  gave  some  appearance  of  faction,  it  was  thought 
good  there  should  be  an  association  and  agreement, 
that  we  should  combine  together  in  one  body,  and  to 
submit  to  such  government  and  governors  as  we  should 
by  common  consent  agree  to  make  and  choose,  and 
set  our  hands  to  this  that  follows,  word  for  word.' 

'  In  the  name  of  God,  Amen.  We,  whose  names  are 
underwritten,  the  loyal  subjects  of  our  dread  sovereign 
lord.  King  James,  by  the  grace  of  God,  of  Great  Britain, 
France,  and  Ireland,  king,  defender  of  the  faith,  &c. 
having  undertaken,  for  the  glory  of  God,  and  advance- 
ment of  the  Christian  faith,  and  honor  of  our  king  and 
country,  a  voyage  to  plant  the  first  colony  in  the  north- 
ern parts  of  Virginia,  do,  by  these  presents,  solemnly 
and  mutually,  in  the  presence  of  God  and  one  of 
another,  covenant  and  combine  ourselves  together  into 
a  civil  body  politic,  for  our  better  ordering  and  preserv- 
ation, and  furtherance   of  the  ends  aforesaid ;  and  by 

*■ '  Behold  tlie  little  Mayflower,  rounding  now  the  Southern  Cape  of  Eng- 
land—filled with  husbands  and  wives  and  children,  families  of  righteous 
men,  under  '  covenant  with  God  and  each  other,'  '  to  lay  some  good  founda- 
tion for  religion  '—engaged  both  to  make  and  to  keep  their  own  laws,  expect- 
ing to  supply  their  own  wants  and  bear  their  own  burdens,  assisted  by  none 
but  the  God  in  whom  they  trust.  Here  are  the  hands  of  industry  !  the  germs 
of  liberty  !  the  dear  pledges  of  order  !  and  the  sacred  beginnings  of  a  home  ! 
—D.  BushneWs  Address,  at  New  York,  Dec.  22(7,  1849. 
2* 


18 


virtue  hereof  to  enact,  constitute  and  frame  such  just 
and  equal  laws,  ordinances,  acts,  constitutions,  and 
offices,  from  time  to  time,  as  shall  be  thought  most 
meet  and  convenient  for  the  general  good  of  the  colony ; 
unto  which  we  promise  all  due  submission  and  obedi- 
ence. In  witness  whereof  we  have  hereunder  subscribed 
our  names,  at  Cape  Cod,  the  11th  of  November,  in  the 
year  of  the  reign  of  our  sovereign  lord.  King  James,  of 
England,  France  and  Ireland,  the  eighteenth,  and  of 
Scotland,  the  fifty-fourth,  anno  Domini,  1620. 


[Mr.  John  CAEVERt  8 

"William  Bradford!  2 

Mr.  Edward  WixsLOwt  5 

Mr.  William  BREWSTERt  6 

*Mr.  Isaac  AllertonI  6 

Capt.  Miles  Standi shI  2 

John  Howl  and 

John  Alden  1 

Mr.  Samuel  Fuller  2 

*Mr.  Christopher  Martin!   4 

*Mr.  William  MullinsI  5 

*Mr.  William  White!  5 

Me.  Richard  Warren  1 

*JoHN  Goodman  1 

Mr.  Stephen  Hopkins!  8 

*Edwaed  Tilly!  4 

*JoHN  TilltI  3 

Francis  Cook  2 

*  Thomas  Rogers!  2 

*Thomas  Tinker  3 

*John  Ridgdale!  2 


*Edward  Fullee! 
=^John  Tuener 

^Francis  Eaton! 
*James  Chilton! 
^JoHN  Crackston 

John  Billington! 
^Moses  Fletcher 
*Degort  Priest 
*Tiiomas  Williams 

Gilbert  Win&low 
*Edmund  Margeson 
^Peter  Brown 
^Richard  Beitteeige 

George  Soule 
=^RiCHARD  Clarke 

Richard  Gardiner 
*JoHN  Alleeton 
*Thomas  English 
*Edwaed  Dotey 

Edwaed  Leister 


101] 


The  above  list  of  the  signers  of  the  celebrated  com- 
pact, is  taken  from  Prince's  New  England  Chronology 
vol.  1,  p.  85,  Edit.  1736,  which  is  preceded  by  the 


19 


following  remarks.  '  To  this  instrument  Mr.  Morton 
sets  the  subscribers  in  the  following  order  :  but  their 
names  corrected^  with  titles  and  families^  I  take  from  the 
list  at  the  end  of  Governor  Bradford's  folio  manuscript. 
Only  this  I  observe,  that  out  of  modesty,  he  omits  the 
title  of  Mr.  to  his  own  name,  which  he  ascribes  to 
several  others.' 

The  figures  opposite  each  name  designate  the  num- 
ber in  each  family.  Those  having  an  asterisk  (*)  pre- 
fixed, died  before  the  end  of  March.  Those  which  are 
marked  with  an  obelisk  (f )  brought  their  wives  with 
them.  One  of  those  attached  to  the  name  of  Samuel 
Fuller  was  his  servant,  named  William  Butten,  a  youth 
who  died  Nov.  6th,  on  the  passage.  George  Soule  was 
of  Winslow's  family.  Edward  Dotey  and  Edward 
Leister  were  of  Stephen  Hopkins'  family.  Christopher 
Martin,  Richard  Warren,  Stephen  Hopkins,  John  Bil- 
lington,  Edward  Dotey,  Edward  Leister,  and  perhaps 
some  others,  joined  them  at  London. 

The  number  against  the  name  of  William  White, 
does  not  include  that  of  his  son  Peregi'ine,  born  in  Cape 
Cod  harbor. 

John  Howland  was  of  Governor  Carver's  family, 
John  AUerton  and  Thomas  English  were  seamen.  Dr. 
Young,  in  his  Chronicles  of  the  Pilgrims,  page  122, 
remarks  that  '  the  list  includes  the  servant  who  died  ; 
the  latter  ought  not  to  be  counted.  The  number 
living  at  the  signing  of  the  compact,  was  therefore 
only  100.' 

'  So  there  were  just  101  who  sailed  from  Plymouth 
in  England,  and  just  as  many  arrived  in  Cape  Cod 


20 


harbor.  And  this  is  the  sohtary  number,  who  for  an 
undefiled  conscience  and  the  love  of  pure  Christianity, 
first  left  their  native  and  pleasant  land,  and  encoun- 
tered all  the  toils  and  hazards  of  the  tumultuous 
ocean,  in  search  of  some  uncultivated  region  in  North 
Virginia,  where  they  might  quietly  enjoy  their  relig- 
ious hberties,  and  transmit  them  to  posterity  in  hopes 
that  none  would  follow  to  disturb  or  vex  them.'  The 
same  day  Mr.  John  Carver  was  appointed  their  Gov- 
ernor. 

'  These  were  the  founders  of  the  Colony  of  New 
Plymouth.  The  settlement  of  this  colony  occasioned 
the  settlement  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  which  was  the 
source  of  all  the  other  Colonies  of  New  England. 
Virginia  was  in  a  dying  state,  and  seemed  to  revive 
and  flourish  from  the  example  of  New  England. 

'  I  am  not  preserving  from  oblivion  the  names  of 
heroes  whose  chief  merit  is  the  overthrow  of  cities, 
provinces  and  empires,  but  the  names  of  the  founders 
of  a  flourishing  town  and  colony,  if  not  of  the  whole 
British  empire  in  North  America.' — JIutchinso7i,  11, 4:62. 

*'This  is  perhaps  the  only  instance,  in  human 
history,  of  that  positive  original  social  compact,  which 
speculative  philosophers  have  imagined  as  the  only 
legitimate  source  of  government.  Here  was  a  unani- 
mous and  personal  assent  by  all  the  individuals  of 
the  community,  to  the  association  by  which  they  be- 
came a  nation.  It  was  the  result  of  circumstances 
and   discussions,   which    had   occurred    during    their 

*-  John  Quincy  Adams's  Oration,  Dec.  22,  1802. 


21 


passage  from  Europe,  and  is  a  full  demonstration  that 
the  nature  of  civil  government,  abstracted  from  the 
political  institutions  of  their  native  country,  had  been 
an  object  of  their  serious  meditation.  The  settlers  of 
all  the  European  colonies  had  contented  themselves 
with  the  powers  conferred  upon  them  by  their  respective 
charters,  without  looking  beyond  the  seal  of  the  royal 
parchment  for  the  measure  of  their  rights,  and  the  rule 
of  their  duties.' 

Various  excursions  were  afterwards  made,  in  pur- 
suit of  some  place  for  settlement,  but  without  success, 
and  conflicting  opinions  arose  as  to  the  measures  it 
was  most  expedient  to  adopt,  while  the  approach  of 
winter,  and  the  impatience  of  Capt.  Jones,  rendered 
their  situation  full  of  perplexity,  and  beset  with  perils. 

Under  these  circumstances,  on  the  6th  of  December, 
another  expedition  was  resolved  upon,  the  day  pre- 
vious having  been  stormy.  Ten  men  who  were  willing 
to  embark,  were  appointed,  namely,  Capt.  Standish, 
Master  Carver,  William  Bradford,  Edward  Winslow, 
John  Tilley,  Edward  Tilley,  John  Howland,  and  three 
of  London,  Richard  Warren,  Stephen  Hopkins  and 
Edward  Dotte,  and  two  seamen,  John  Alderton  and 
Thomas  English.  Of  the  ship's  company  there  went 
Master  Clark  and  Master  Coppin,  the  master  gunner, 
and  three  sailors.  It  was  late  in  the  day,  before  the 
preparations  for  the  expedition  were  completed,  and 
the  weather  was  extremely  severe.  After  clearing  from 
the  ship,  it  required  some  time  to  get  underway,  on  ac- 
count of  a  sandy  point,  during  which  two  of  their  men 
were  sick,  and  Edward  Tilley  had  nearly  swooned. 


22 


The  gunner  was  also  sick,  and  so  remained  all  that 
day  and  night. 

After  clearing  the  sandy  point,  they  coasted  six  or 
seven  leagues  by  the  shore,  landed  and  spent  the  night; 
on  the  7th  visited  several  places  and  probably  passed 
the  night  at  Great  Meadow  Creek,  in  Eastham  ;  and 
on  the  8th,  about  5  o'clock  in  the  morning,  were  sud- 
denly attacked  by  the  Indians.  The  attack  was  re- 
pulsed with  great  intrepidity  on  the  part  of  the  pilgrims, 
and  the  Indians  retreated  with  precipitation. 

After  returning  thanks  to  God  for  their  wonderful 
deliverance,  they  took  to  their  shallop,  and  called  the 
place  '  The  First  Encounter!*  The  wind  being  favora- 
ble, they  sailed  along  the  coast  of  Barnstable  Bay, 
about  forty-five  miles,  but  saw  no  river  or  creek  con- 
venient for  landing.  After  sailing  an  hour  or  two 
snow  and  rain  commenced  falling  ;  the  sea  became 
rough  ;  the  hinges  of  the  rudder  were  broken,  and  it 
could  no  longer  be  used  ;  but  two  men  supplied  its 
place  w^ith  oars.  The  ocean  heaved  with  increasing 
agitation,  and  they  were  in  gi'eat  anxiety  and  danger. 
The  night  was  fast  gathering  around  them.  At  this 
ti-ying  moment.  Master  Coppin  bid  them  be  of  good 
cheer,  for  he  saw  the  land  ;  but  as  they  drew  near  it, 
the  gale  increased,  and  heavy  sail  being  set  in  order  to 
reach  the  harbor  before  dark,  the  mast  was  split  in 
three  pieces,  and  the  shallop  was  threatened  with 
destruction.  '  Yet  by  God's  mercy,'  says  Gov.  Brad- 
ford, '  we  had  the  flood  with  us,  and  struck  into  the 
harbor.  The  pilot,  who  had  bid  the  company  be  of 
good   cheer,  was  deceived,  and  when  arriving  at  the 


23 


harbor  exclaimed,  '  Lord  be  merciful  to  us,  my  eyes 
never  saw  this  place  before; '  and  he  and  the  master's 
mate  would  have  run  the  shallop  ashore  in  a  cove  full 
of  breakers,  had  not  the  seaman  who  steered,  bid  them 
that  rowed,  '  if  they  were  men,  about  with  her,  or  else 
they  were  all  cast  away ;'  '  the  which  they  did  with  all 
speed,'  and  although  it  was  dark  and  rainy,  they  suc- 
ceeded in  securing  a  safe  shelter  under  the  lee  of  a 
small  island,  where  they  spent  the  night.* 

'  In  the  morning  they  marched  over  the  Island,  but 
found  no  inhabitants,  making  it  their  rendezvous,  be- 
ing Saturday,  the  9th  day  of  December.  On  the  Sab- 
bath day  we  rested ;  and  on  Monday  we  sounded  the 
harbor  and  found  it  a  very  good  harbor  for  our  shipping. 
We  marched  into  the  land  and  found  divers  corn  fields, 
and  little  running  brooks,  a  place  very  good  for  situa- 
tion. So  we  returned  (the  14th)  to  our  ship  with  good 
news  to  our  people,  which  did  much  comfort  our 
hearts. 

During  the  passage  from  England,  a  child  was  born 
named  Oceanus,  the  son  of  Stephen  Hopkins  ;  and  the 
only  death  was  on  the  6th  of  November,  that  of  Wm. 
Butten,  a  youth  and  servant  of  Dr.  Samuel  Fuller. 
On  the  7th  of  December,  and  while  at  Cape  Cod  Harbor, 
Dorothy,  the  wife  of  Governor  William  Bradford,  fell 
overboard  and  was  drowned.  On  the  4th  of  Decem- 
ber, Edward  Thompson,  the  servant  of  William  White, 
died.  About  the  last  of  November,  Peregrine,  the  son 
of  William  White,  was  born.     The   Mayflower,  after 

*  Clark's  Island. 


24 


remaining  thirty -four  days,  left  Cape  Cod  harbor  on  the 
15th  of  December,  and  anchored  Satm'day,  the  16th,  in 
Plymouth  harbor,  about  one  and  a  half  miles  from 
town,  between  Clark's  Island  and  Beach  Point.  Here 
she  remained  during  the  winter,  and  afforded  partial 
accommodations  to  the  settlers,  while  preparing  their 
houses  on  shore.  In  the  spring,  as  Secretary  Morton 
observes,  '  They  now  began  to  hasten  the  ship  away, 
which  tarried  so  long  by  reason  of  the  necessity  and 
danger  that  lay  on  them,  because  so  many  died,  both 
of  themselves  and  the  ship's  company  likewise,  by 
which  they  became  so  few  as  the  master  durst  not  put 
to  sea  until  those  that  lived  recovered  of  their  sickness, 
and  the  winter  was  over.'  She  sailed  on  the  5th  of 
April,  1621,  having  been  in  Plymouth  harbor  one  hun- 
dred and  ten  days,  and  arrived  at  London  on  the  6th 
of  May,  a  short  passage  compared  with  the  previous 
one,  so  full  of  delays,  accidents,  and  dangers. 

It  was  on  board  this  ship,  that  the  celebrated  com- 
pact was  signed  by  forty-one  individuals.  The  last 
survivors  of  the  Mayflower  who  signed  the  compact^ 
were  John  Rowland,  who  died  in  1672,  aged  eighty 
years,  and  John  Alden,  who  died  in  1686,  aged  eighty- 
nine.  Mary,  daughter  of  Isaac  Allerton,  and  wife  of 
Elder  Thomas  Cushman,  the  son  of  Robert  Cushman, 
died  in  1699,  aged  90,  and  was  the  last  of  the  one  hun- 
dred passengers  who  arrived  at  Cape  Cod  harbor. 

Mr.  Savage  observes,  in  a  note  to  his  invaluable 
edition  of  Winthrop's  History  of  New  England,  '  that 
the  principal  vessels  which  brought  our  fathers  hither, 
are  remembered  by  their  descendants  with  no  small 


25 


degree  of  affection.  The  Mayflower  had  been  a  name 
of  renown,  without  forming  a  part  of  this  fleet,*  be- 
cause in  her  came  the  devoted  planters  of  Plymouth, 
and  she  had  also  brought  in  the  year  preceding  this, 
some  of  Higinson's  companions  to  Salem.'  It  thus 
appears  that  Plymouth,  Salem,  and  Boston,  have  a 
direct  and  peculiar  interest  in  all  that  pertains  to  the 
successful  history  and  fortunes  of  this  vessel,  which 
aided  in  transferring  so  many  individuals  from  Eng- 
land to  America. 

Thomas  Carlyle  observes,  in  his  recent  w^ork,  '  Look 
now  to  American  Saxondom,  and  at  that  little  fact  oi 
the  sailing  of  the  Mayflower,  two  hundred  years  ago. 
It  was  properly  the  beginning  of  America.  There  were 
straggling  settlers  in  America  before  ;  some  material 
as  of  a  body  was  there ;  but  the  soul  of  it  was  this. 
These  poor  men,  driven  out  of  their  own  country,  and 
not  able  to  live  in  Holland,  determined  on  settling  in 
the  new  world.  Black  untamed  forests  are  there,  and 
wild  savage  creatures  ;  but  not  so  cruel  as  a  star  cham- 
ber hangman.  They  clubbed  their  small  means  to- 
gether, hired  a  ship,  the  little  ship  Mayflower,  and  made 
ready  to  set  sail.  Hah  I  These  men,  I  think,  had  a  work. 
The  weak  thing,  weaker  than  a  child,  becomes  strong, 
if  it  be  a  true  thing.  Puritanism  was  only  despicable, 
laughable,  then  ;  but  nobody  can  manage  to  laugh  at 
it  now.  It  is  one  of  the  strongest  things  under  the  sun 
at  present.' 

With  the   following   inimitable   description  of  the 

=*  The  fleet  that  brought  over  Gov.  Winthrop  and  his  Colony. 
3 


26 

Mayflower,  on  approaching  the  New  England  coast, 
we  close  this  section. 

*^Methinks  I  see  it  now,  that  one  solitary,  adven- 
turous vessel,  the  Mayflower  of  a  forlorn  hope,  freighted 
with  the  prospects  of  a  future  state,  and  bound  across 
the  unknown  sea.  I  behold  it  pursuing,  with  a  thou- 
sand misgivings,  the  uncertain,  the  tedious  voyage. 
Suns  rise  and  set,  and  weeks  and  months  pass,  and 
winter  surprises  them  on  the  deep,  but  brings  them  not 
the  sight  of  the  wished  for  shore.  I  see  them  now 
scantily  supplied  with  provisions,  crowded  almost  to 
suffocation  in  their  ill-stored  prison,  delayed  by  calms, 
pursuing  a  circuitous  route ; — and  now  driven  in  fury 
before  the  raging  tempest,  on  the  high  and  giddy 
waves.  The  awful  voice  of  the  storm  howls  through 
the  rigging.  The  laboring  masts  seem  straining  from 
their  base  ;  —  the  dismal  sound  of  the  pumps  is  heard  ; 
—  the  ship  leaps,  as  it  were,  madly,  from  billow  to 
billow  ;  —  the  ocean  breaks,  and  settles  with  engulph- 
ing  floods  over  the  floating  deck,  and  beats  with  dead- 
ening, shivering  weight,  against  the  staggered  vessel. 
I  see  them,  escaped  from  these  perils,  pursuing  their  all 
but  desperate  undertaking,  and  landed  at  last,  after  a 
five  months'  passage,  on  the  ice  clad  rocks  of  Ply- 
mouth, weak  and  weary  from  the  voyage  —  poorly 
armed,  scantily  provisioned,  depending  on  the  charity 
of  their  ship-master  for  a  draught  of  beer  on  board, 
drinking  nothing  but  water  on  shore,  —  without  shel- 
ter,—  without  means,  —  surrounded  by  hostile  tribes. 
Shut  now  the  volume  of  history,  and  tell  me,  on  any 

*  Edward  Everett's  Oration,  Dec.  20, 1826.      j  ^^k 


I#p^ 


27 


principle  of  human  probability,  what  shall  be  the  fate 
of  this  handful  of  adventurers  ?  Tell  me,  man  of  mili- 
tary science,  in  how  many  months  were  they  all  swept 
off  by  the  thirty  savage  tribes,  enumerated  within  the 
early  limits  of  New  England?  Tell  me,  politician, 
how  long  did  this  shadow  of  a  colony,  on  which  your 
conventions  and  treaties  had  not  smiled,  languish  on 
the  distant  coast  ?  Student  of  history,  compare  for  me 
the  baffled  projects,  the  deserted  settlements,  the  aban- 
doned adventurers  of  other  times,  and  find  the  parallel 
of  this.  Was  it  the  winter's  storm,  beating  upon  the 
houseless  heads  of  women  and  children  ;  was  it  hard 
labor  and  spare  meals ;  was  it  disease ;  was  it  the 
tomahawk ;  was  it  the  deep  malady  of  a  blighted 
hope,  a  ruined  enterprise,  and  a  broken  heart,  aching 
in  its  last  moments,  at  the  recollection  of  the  loved 
and  left,  beyond  the  sea  ;  was  it  some,  or  all  of  these 
united,  that  hurried  this  forsaken  company  to  their 
melancholy  fate  ?  And  is  it  possible  that  neither  of 
these  causes,  that  not  all  combined,  were  able  to  blast 
this  bud  of  hope  ?  Is  it  possible,  that  from  a  beginning 
so  feeble,  so  frail,  so  worthy,  not  so  much  of  admira- 
tion as  of  pity,  there  has  gone  forth  a  progi'ess  so 
steady,  a  growth  so  wonderful,  an  expansion  so  ample, 
a  reality  so  important,  a  promise,  yet  to  be  fulfilled,  so 
glorious  ? ' 


28 


LEYDEN  STREET  AND  TOWN  SQUARE. 

The  murmuring  brook  whose  waters  sweet 
Induced  them  near  to  fix  their  seat. 
Whose  gushing  banks  the  springs  afford 
That  eked  along  their  scanty  board  ; 
There  first  was  heard  the  cheerful  strain, 
Of  axe  and  hammer,  saw  and  plane, 
Around  their  humble  roofs  appeared, 
Through  wasting  care  and  labor  reared. 

This  street  received  its  present  name  in  the  year 
1823,  in  grateful  remembrance  of  the  hospitality  and 
kindness  shown  to  the  pilgrims  during  their  residence 
of  eleven  years  in  the  city  of  Leyden. 

It  was  originally  named  First  Street,  and  afterwards 
is  in  the  records  sometimes  called  Great,  and  Broad 
street. 

Among  the  principal  considerations  which  determined 
the  fathers  of  New  England  to  settle  in  Plymouth, 
was  its  favorable  position  for  defence  against  the  abo- 
rigines, and  the  excellent  springs  of  pure  water  which 
abound  along  its  shores,  and  the  precipitous  banks  of 
town  brook.  The  tide  flowed  for  some  distance  up 
this  stream,  and  formed  a  convenient  basin  for  the  re- 
ception and  safe  shelter,  of  the  shallops  and  other 
vessels  employed  in  their  early  enterprises  of  fishing 
and  traffic.  It  may  in  some  measure  be  owing  to  this 
circumstance,  that  convenient  wharves  along  the  un- 
protected shores  were  not  sooner  constructed. 

This  stream  proceeds  from  BilUngton  sea,  which  is 
about  two  miles  distant  from  town.  It  furnishes  a 
valuable  water  power  in  modern  times,  and  in  the 
days    of  the  Pilgrims,  and   for   nearly  two  centuries 


W' 


^LLYN  HOUSE. 


FULLER  nR/\DLU 


29 


after,  it  abounded  with  alewives,  almost  at  their  doors, 
affording  an  important  resource  for  the  supply  of  their 
wants.  On  the  banks  and  vicinity  of  this  stream,  they 
constructed  their  humble  dwellings,  and  spent  the  first 
winter"  after  their  arrival,  and  experienced  the  keenest 
sufferings  and  sharpest  trials.  Had  not  their  voyage 
across  the  Atlantic  been  treacherously  delayed,  and 
protracted  to  an  unusual  length,  they  would  doubtless 
have  arrived  in  season  to  secure  a  shelter  before  the 
advance  of  winter. 

They  first  constructed  a  frame  building,  twenty  feet 
square,  for  their  common  house,  and  soon  after  other 
buildings  for  their  stores  and  provisions.  It  stood  partly 
on  the  lot  occupied  by  the  dwelling  house  of  Capt. 
Samuel  D.  Holmes,  on  the  south  side  of  Leyden  street, 
near  the  declivity  of  the  hill,  towards  the  water  side. 
In  the  year  1801,  when  some  men  were  digging  a 
cellar  on  this  spot,  several  tools  and  a  plate  of  iron 
were  discovered,  seven  feet  below  the  surface  of  the 
earth,  which  were  carefully  preserved  and  highly  valued 
by  the  late  Isaac  Lathrop,  Esq.,  who  died  in  1808, 
and  whose  cherished  veneration  for  the  fathers  will  be 
long  remembered  by  our  citizens. 

'  Thm'sday,  the  28th  of  December,  so  many  as  could 
went  to  work  on  the  hill,  where  we  purposed  to  build 
our  platform  for  our  ordnance,  and  which  doth  com- 
mand all  the  plain  and  the  bay,  and  from  whence  we 
may  see  far  into  the  sea,  and  might  be  easier  impaled, 
having  two  rows  of  houses  and  a  fair  street.  So  in 
the  afternoon  we  went  to  measure  out  the  gi'ounds, 
and   fii'st   we   took   notice    how  many  families  there 

3* 


80 


were,  willing  all  single  men  that  had  no  wives,  to  join 
with  some  family,  as  they  thought  fit,  that  so  we 
might  build  fewer  houses  ;  which  was  done,  and  we 
reduced  them  to  nineteen  families.  To  greater  fami- 
lies we  allotted  larger  plots ;  to  every  person  half  a 
pole  in  breadth,  and  three  in  length ;  and  so  lots  were 
cast  where  every  man  should  lie ;  which  was  done, 
and  staked  out.  We  thought  this  proportion  was 
large  enough  at  the  first,  for  houses  and  gardens  to 
impale  them  round,  considering  the  weakness  of  our 
people,  many  of  them  growing  ill  with  colds  )  for  our 
former  discoveries  in  frost  and  storms,  and  the  wading 
at  Cape  Cod  had  brought  much  weakness  amongst  us, 
which  increased  so  every  day  more  and  more,  and 
after  was  the  cause  of  many  of  their  deaths.' 

The  following  transcript  is  from  the  first  page  of  the 
first  Book  of  the  Old  Colony  Records,  being  the  oldest 
Record  contained  in  the  same,  and  is  doubtless  an  im- 
perfect plan  of  the  lots  assigned,  Dec.  28,  1620,  as  be- 
fore mentioned. 

'  The  Meersteads  and  Garden  plotes  of  those  which 
came  first,  layed  out  1620. 


The  North  Side. 

South  Side. 

Peter  Brown, 

John  Goodman, 

Mr.  Brewster. 

Hige  way. 

^ 

John  Billington, 

1 

Mr.  Isaak  Allerton, 

Francis  Cooke, 

Edward  Winslow. 

31 


^  Tuesday,  the  9th  of  January,  was  a  reasonable  fair 
day ;  and  we  went  to  labor  that  day  in  the  building  of 
our  town,  in  two  rows  of  houses  for  more  safety.  We 
divided  by  lot  the  plot  of  ground  whereon  to  build  our 
town,  after  the  proportion  formerly  allotted.  We  agreed 
that  every  man  should  build  his  own  house,  thinking 
by  that  course  men  would  make  more  haste  than 
working  in  common.  The  common  house,  in  which 
for  the  first  we  made  our  rendezvous,  being  near  finish- 
ed, wanted  only  covering,  it  being  about  twenty  foot 
square.  Some  should  make  mortar,  and  some  gather 
thatch ;  so  that  in  four  days  half  of  it  was  thatched. 
Frost  and  foul  weather  hindered  us  much.  This  time 
of  the  year  seldom  could  we  work  half  the  week.' 

By  the  words,  '  the  street,'  in  the  above  plan,  Leyden 
street  is  doubtless  meant,  and  'Hige  way,'  represents  a 
street  which  run  easterly  of  what  is  now  called  Market 
street.  This  appears  evident,  from  the  fact,  that  in 
1684,  when  the  King's  highway  was  laid  out,  it  run 
westward  of  the  old  way,  and  also  from  the  account  of 
our  streets  in  1627,  as  given  by  Isaac  de  Rasieres,  in 
his  letter,  which  the  reader  will  find  in  the  latter  part  of 
this  book ;  from  which  it  appears,  that  the  street  South 
of  Leyden  street,  commenced  on  the  opposite  side  of 
Maine  street,  partly  on  the  lot  now  occupied  by  Wm. 
H.  Drew,  and  partly  on  that  owned  by  the  late  Wm. 
Davis,  Esq.,  and  thence  took  a  circular  direction  to 
join  what  is  now  called  Summer,  in  early  times  called 
South  street. 

Edward  Winslow,  in  a  letter,  sent  to  England,  dated 
Dec.  11,  1621,  says,   '  We  have  built  seven  dwelling 


82 


houses,  and  four  for  the  use  of  the  plantation.'  The 
four  lots  above  named,  probably  included  the  common 
house,  and  the  store  house,  &c.,  adjoining.  An  allu- 
sion is  made  to  the  '  old  store  house^^  the  -only  one 
known  to  the  writer,  in  a  deed,  of  William  Bradford,  to 
John  Dyer,  in  1698. 

The  seven  dwelling  houses  were  doubtless  found 
sufficient  to  shelter  those  who  survived  the  first  winter, 
comprising  but  about  one  half  the  number  living  at 
the  time  of  the  allotments,  in  Dec.  1620.  It  appears 
from  a  deed  dated  in  1677,  that  the  homestead  of  Ste- 
phen Hopkins,  was  at  the  corner  of  Maine  and  Leyden 
streets,  and  that  of  John  Howland,  whose  wife  Eliza- 
beth probably  inherited  the  sameTrom  her  father.  Gov. 
Carver,  was  the  lot  now  owned  by  the  heirs  of  Barna- 
bas Hedge,  deceased. 

The  following  occurrence  may  be  interesting  to  the 
reader. 

On  the  14th  of  January,  those  on  board  the  ship 
proposed  going  on  shore  to  join  their  brethren  in  keep- 
ing the  first  sabbath.  At  6  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
however,  they  observed  the  common  house  on  fire,  but 
on  account  of  low  water,  could  render  no  aid  till  three- 
fourths  of  an  hour  afterwards.  The  thatch  with  which 
the  roof  w^as  covered  caught  from  a  spark,  and  instantly 
burnt  up,  but  the  building  was  saved.  Gov.  Carver  and 
IVIr.  Bradford  were  sick  at  the  time,  and  the  room  was 
crowded  with  beds,  loaded  muskets  and  powder,  but 
they  happily  escaped  without  personal  injury,  though 
not  without  pecuniary  loss.' 

In  the  common  house,  according  to  tradition  received 


33 


from  an  aged  relative,  by  the  late  Isaac  Lothrop,  Esq., 
who  died  in  1808,  as  mentioned  by  the  late  Judge 
Davis,  in  a  note  to  New  England's  Memorial,  the  cele- 
brated sermon  of  Robert  Cushman  was  delivered,  some 
time  in  November  or  December,  1621  —  being  the  first 
preached  in  New  England  ;  in  which  he  enforced  with 
great  earnestness,  the  importance  of  self-denial,  and 
pointed  out  the  special  duties  devolving  on  those  who 
undertake  the  settlement  of  new  counlries. 

The  first  parsonage  house  was  built  in  this  street, 
and  stood  east  of  the  present  one,  embracing  the  lots 
on  which  now  stand  the  houses  of  the  late  Barnabas 
Churchill  and  James  Bartlett,  and  was  early  occupied 
by  the  Rev.  John  Cotton,  pastor  of  the  fii'st  church. 
The  lot  on  which  the  present  parsonage  house  stands, 
was  given,  March  1,  1664,  to  the  first  church,  by  Mrs. 
Bridget  Fuller  and  Samuel  Fuller,  the  excellent  widow 
and  son  of  Samuel  Fuller,  who  came  in  the  Mayflower, 
in^l620,  and  died  in  1683.  It  is  now  occupied  by  Dr. 
James  Kendall,  senior  pastor  of  the  first  church,  who 
was  settled  in  the  ministry,  January  1st,  1800,  and  is 
now  in  the  82d  year  of  his  age. 

The  following  vivid  delineation  of  the  scene  of  suffer- 
ing which  occurred  among  the  Pilgi'ims  during  the  first 
winter,  may  justly  claim  the  reader's  attention.  The 
author,*  after  referring  to  the  heroic  achievements  of 
Theremopylse,  thus  proceeds : 

'And  yet  do  you  not  think,  that  whoso  could,  by 
adequate  description,  bring  before  you  that  winter  of 

*  Choate's  Address  at  New  York,  Dec.  22,  1S43. 


34 


the  Pilgrims,  its  brief  sunshine,  the  nights  of  storms 
slow  waning ;  the  damp  and  icy  breath,  felt  to  the  pil- 
low of  the  dying,  its  destitutions,  its  contrasts  with  all 
their  former  experience  in  life,  its  utter  insulation  and 
loneliness,  its  death  beds  and  burials ;  its  memories  ; 
its  hopes  ;  the  consultations  of  the  prudent ;  the  prayers 
of  the  pious  ;  the  occasional  cheerful  hymn,  in  which 
the  heart  threw  off  its  burthen,  and  asserting  its  unvan- 
quished  nature,  went  up  to  the  skies  —  do  ye  not  think 
that  whoso  would  describe  them,  calmly  waiting  in 
that  defile,  lonelier  and  darker  than  Thermopylse,  for  a 
morning  that  might  never  dawn,  or  might  show  them 
when  it  did,  a  mightier  arm  than  a  Persian,  raised  in 
act  to  strike,  would  he  not  sketch  a  scene  of  more  diffi- 
cult and  rare  heroism  ?  A  scene  as  Wordsworth  has  said, 
"  melancholy,  yea,  dismal,  yet  consolatory  and  full  of 
joy ;  a  scene  even  better  fitted,  to  succor,  to  exalt,  to 
lead  the  forlorn  hopes  of  all  great  causes  till  time  shall 
be  no  more  !  "  ' 

Town  Square.  This  first  house  of  public  worship, 
was  built  in  this  place.  History  affords  nothing  defi- 
nite respecting  a  place  of  public  worship  in  Plymouth, 
previous  to  1622,  though  from  incidental  hints  it  may 
be  inferred,  that  the  common  house  was  used  for  that 
purpose.  In  1622,  a  fort  was  erected  on  the  hill,  and 
so  constructed  as  to  combine  both  the  means  of  de- 
fence and  accommodations  for  public  worship,  as  is 
particularly  mentioned  by  the  early  historians.* 

In  the  year  1637,  one  of  the  planters  gave,  by  will, 

*  See  also,  Isaach  De  Eosier's  Letter,  in  this  book. 


35 


'  somewhat,'  to  '  Plymouth  meeting  house.'  Richard 
Church,  the  father  of  Col.  Church,  and  John  Tomson, 
who  afterwards  settled  in  Middle  borough,  were  the 
architects,  and  Capt.  Thomas  Willet  was  one  of  the 
contracting  committee.  That  it  stood  on  the  north  side 
of  Town  Square,  is  inferred  from  the  fact,  that  in  an 
ancient  deed,  land  was  sold  there,  which  is  alluded  to 
as  the  spot  where  the  old  meeting  house  stood.  This,  ob- 
serves the  late  Samuel  Davis,  Esq.,  who  possessed 
every  advantage  for  obtaining  accurate  information  on 
this  point,  'this  is  all  the  description  we  shall  ever 
probably  obtain,  of  this  ancient  sanctuary,  where  a 
Reynor  and  a  Cotton  broke  the  bread  of  life,  where  a 
Brewster  and  a  Cushman  ruled  in  holy  things.  It  had 
a  bell,  but  no  dimensions  are  on  record.' 

This  house  was  taken  down  in  1683,  when  another 
was  built.  It  stood,  not  upon  the  old  lot,  but  at  the 
head  of  the  square,  the  front  extending  considerably 
lower  down  than  the  present  church  ;  dimensions  40  by 
45  feet.  A  drawing  of  this  church,  by  the  late  Samuel 
Davis,  Esq.,  is  still  in  existence. 

A  third  house  was  erected  in  1744,  on  and  near  the 
same  'spot  as  the  former,  being  71  feet  10  inches  in 
front,  and  67  feet  8  inches  deep.  Its  spire,  100  feet 
high,  was  surmounted  by  a  brass  weathercock. 

The  present  Gothic  house  was  built  by  the  first 
church.  It  measures  61  by  70  feet,  and  cost  about 
$10,000. 

The  church  of  the  Pilgrimage  was  erected  in  1840, 
that  Society  having  previously  worshipped  in  their 
house  on  Training  Green,  which  was  built  in  1801. 


36 


This  house  was  dedicated  Nov.  24,  1840.  The  body 
of  the  church  is  68  by  59  feet,  with  a  tower  26  feet 
square.  It  contains  92  pews  on  the  lower  floor,  and 
80  seats  in  the  organ  loft,  and  will  accommodate  about 
700  people.  '  It  received  its  name  in  commemoration 
of  the  pilgrimage  of  our  puritan  fathers  to  this  place^ 
and  stands  near  the  site  of  the  church  they  first  erected 
for  worship.' 

The  Town,  formerly  the  County  Court  house,  was 
built  in  1749,  and  was  in  that  day  esteemed  one  of 
the  best  models  of  architecture. 

The  Elm  trees  in  the  square  were  set  out  in  the 
year  1783,  by  the  late  Thomas  Davis,  Esq. 

*  Let  strangers  walk  around 

The  city  where  we  dwell, 
Compass  and  view  thine  holy  gi'ound, 

And  mark  the  building  well.' 

BURYING  HILL. 

The  pilgrim  fathers  are  at  rest: 

When  Summer  's  throned  on  high, 
And  the  world's  warm  breast  is  in  verdure  dressed, 

Go,  stand  on  the  hill  where  they  lie: 
The  earliest  ray  of  the  golden  day 

On  that  hallowed  spot  is  cast ; 
And  the  evening  Sun  as  he  leaves  the  world, 

Looks  kindly  on  that  spot  last.  Pieepokt. 

This  hill  was  originally  called  Fort  Hill,  from  the 
circumstance  of  its  occupation  for  defensive  purposes 
immediately  after  the  landing.  The  first  encounter  of 
the  Pilgrims  with  the  natives,  though  resulting  in  de- 
feat to  the  latter,  naturally  excited  apprehensions  of 


37 


future  hostilities  from  the  same  quarter.  Under  these 
circumstances,  their  first  measure  of  precaution  was 
the  erection  of  a  platform  on  the  hill,  on  which  their 
ordnance  was  placed,  as  a  protection  to  the  dwellings, 
which  they  designed  to  build  in  two  rows  directly 
below.  The  site  of  this  ancient  fort  is  distinctly  marked, 
on  the  south  east  part  of  the  hill,  which  overlooks  the 
bay  and  surrounding  country  in  every  direction,  a  point, 
no  doubt,  exactly  suited  to  attract  the  military  taste 
and  practiced  eye  of  Standish.  It  was  connected  by  a 
way,  now  called  Spring  street,  with  Town  Brook,  near 
which  excellent  springs  of  fresh  water  abounded.  In 
the  year,  according  to  Morton  and  other  historians,* 
*  they  built  a  fort  with  good  timber,  both  strong  and 
comely,  which  was  of  good  defence,  made  with  a  flat 
roof  and  battlements,  on  which  fort  their  ordnance  was 
mounted,  and  where  they  kept  constant  watch,  espe- 
cially in  time  of  danger.  It  served  them  also  for  a  meet- 
ing house,  and  was  fitted  accordingly  for  that  use.' 
These  precautions  were  taken  at  the  time  of  threaten- 
ed hostility  from  Canonicas,  the  distinguished  and 
powerful  Sachem  of  the  Narraganset  Indians.  In 
September,  1642,  according  to  the  town  records,  it 
was  agreed  that  every  man  should  bring  two  pieces 
more,  eight  feet  long,  to  finish  the  fortification  on  the 
fort-hill,  and  that  Richard  Church  shall  speedily  build 
the  carriage  for  another  piece  of  ordnance.  Sept.  23d, 
1643,  it  is  agreed  upon  by  the  whole,  that  there  shall 

*An  interesting  description  of  this  fort,  and  the  order  in  which  the  pil- 
grims proceeded  in  their  attendance  on  public  -worship,  may  be  found  on 
reference  to  the  letter  of  Isaach  de  Rasiers,  in  another  part  of  this  book. 

4 


38 


be  a  watch-house  forthwith  built  of  brick,  and  that  Mr. 
Grimes  will  sell  us  the  brick  at  lis.  a  thousand.  This 
is  the  first  instance  in  which  brick  are  mentioned.  In 
September  of  the  same  year,  the  whole  township  was 
classed  in  a  watch,  six  men  and  a  corporal  assigned  to 
a  watch,  '  when  Gov.  Bradford,  Mr.  Prince,  Mr.  Hop- 
kins, Mr.  Jenney,  Mr.  Paddy,  Mr.  Souther  were 
chosen  the  council  of  war.  Twenty-one  individuals 
living  at  Jones  River  and  "Wellingsly,  were  appointed 
with  others  in  town  to  keep  watch  twenty-four  hours, 
from  sunset  to  sunset,  in  regard  to  the  danger  of  the 
Indians  '  —  those  in  the  town  according  to  order  given 
Nathaniel  Souther  and  Thomas  Southworth,  appoint- 
ed masters  of  the  watch.  Arrangements  were  at  the 
same  time  made  in  case  of  alarm  at  Plymouth,  Dux- 
bury,  and  Marshfield,  that  from  the  two  former  places, 
twenty  men  should  repair  to  the  scene  of  danger,  and 
ten  from  the  latter.  Beacons  were  placed  on  Gallows 
hill,  and  Captain's  hill  in  Duxbury —  and  on  the  hill  by 
Mr.  Thomas'  house  in  Marshfield  —  to  be  fixed  as  sig- 
nals in  case  of  danger.  In  the  month  of  February, 
1676,  the  apprehension  of  danger  from  King  Philip  led 
to  more  extensive  and  formidable  defences  of  this  point 
than  had  been  made  at  any  previous  period.* 

*  February  19th,  1675.  *  It  was  ordered  by  the  town  that  there  shall  be 
forthwith  a  fortification  built  at  Plymouth,  to  be  an  hundred  foot  square, 
the  palisadoes  to  be  10  feet  and  a  half  long,  to  be  set  two  foot  and  a  half 
in  the  ground,  and  to  be  set  against  a  post  and  a  rail.  Every  man  is  to  do 
three  foot  of  the  said  fence  of  the  fortification.  The  palisadoes  are  to  be 
battered  on  the  back  side,  one  against  every  two  and  sharpened  on  the  tops 
—  to  be  accomplished  by  everj^  male  in  each  family  from  16  years  and  up- 
wards.   And  that  there  shall  be  a  watch-house  erected  within  the  said  fence 


39 


There  exists  no  historical  account  of  the  time  when 
this  hill  first  became  the  place  of  sepulture.  It  has 
however  been  inferred  from  traditions  which  have  come 
down,  that  it  was  so  used  not  long  after  1622,  when 
the  fort  was  constructed  and  served  for  public  worship 
as  well  as  defence.  The  following  inscriptions  are 
from  the  oldest  stones  now  on  the  hill.  Why  grave- 
stones were  not  sooner  placed  there,  can  now  only  be 
subject  of  conjecture.  Perhaps  a  sufficient  reason  ex- 
isted in  the  expense  and  difficulty  of  promptly  procur- 
ing stones  from  England  —  and  something  should  be 
allowed  to  the  weighty  cares  and  labors  early  required 
to  hold  possession  of  the  country,  demanding  thoughts 
and  energies  which  rendered  other  considerations  of 
comparatively  secondary  consequence. 

It  seems  proper  in  this  place  to  remark,  that  we  are 
unable  to  designate  the  exact  spot  where  many  of  the 
Pilgrims  repose.     Among  these  were  Richard  Warren, 


or  fortification,  and  that  the  three  pieces  of  ordnance  shall  be  placed  within 
the  said  fence  or  fortification.  Agreed  with  Nathaniel  Southworth  to  build 
the  said  watch-house,  which  is  to  16  feet  in  length  and  12  feet  in  breadtb, 
and  eight  stud,  to  be  walled  with  board  and  to  have  two  floors,  the  upper 
floor  to  be  six  feet  above  the  lower  floor,  and  he  is  to  batten  the  walls  and  to 
make  a  small  pair  of  stairs  in  it,  and  to  frame  two  small  windows  below,  to 
make  two  gables  to  the  roof  on  each  side,  and  to  cover  the  roof  with  shingles. 
And  to  build  a  chimney  in  the  said  house  and  to  do  all  the  work  thereunto, 
only  the  frame  is  to  be  brought  to  the  place  at  the  town's  charge,  and  for  the 
said  work,  he  is  to  have  eight  pounds.'  At  the  close  of  this  war,  which  re- 
sulted in  the  permanent  security  of  New  England  against  the  natives,  this 
fort  was  no  longer  needed,  and  was  sold.  The  last  mention  of  it  in  the  town 
records  was  in  1679,  when  the  Avatch-house  was  given  to  Samuel  Jenney,  to 
occupy  it  or  remove  the  same  if  he  thought  fit.  The  cannon  were  used  for 
the  defence  of  Cole's  hill  during  i-evolutionary  times  ;  and  afterwards  were 
sold  to  be  wrought  into  some  more  harmless  foi-ra  of  human  uses. 


40 


on  the  occurrence  of  whose  death,  in  1628  — the  author 
of  New  England's  Memorial  thus  remarks,  '  This  year 
died,  Mr.  Richard  Warren,  who  hath  been  mentioned 
before  in  this  book,  and  was  a  useful  instrument ;  and 
during  his  life  bore  a  deep  share  in  the  difficulties  and 
troubles  of  the  first  settlement  of  the  plantation  of  New 
Plimouth.'  His  widow,  Elizabeth,  died  in  1673,  aged 
93.  Samuel  Fuller,  deacon  of  the  church,  and  the  first 
resident  physician  of  New  England,  who  died  in  1633 

—  Stephen  Hopkins,  who  died  in  1644,  all  of  whom 
arrived  in  the  Mayflower. —  Thomas  Southworth,  '  a 
magistrate,  and  good  benefactor  to  both  Church  and 
Commonwealth,'  who  died  in  1669.  —  Thomas  Prince, 
for  many  years  Gov.  of  the  Colony,  and  a  strenuous  pa- 
tron of  free  schools,  who  died  in  1673. —  Nath'l  Morton, 
Secretary  of  the  Colony,  from  1645  to  1685  —  and  the 
author  of  New  England's  Memorial,  who  died  in  1685, 

—  names  of  high  standing  in  our  earfier  annals,  —  pil- 
lars of  the  colony,  —  devoted  friends  of  law,  liberty  and 
refigion. 

The  selection  of  epitaphs  is  necessarily  restricted  in  a 
work  like  the  present  one,  and  the  following  are  copied 
as  of  gi-eatest  interest  in  connection  with  the  Pilgi'ims. 
A  white  marble  monument,  with  an  appropriate  in- 
scription, was  some  years  ago  placed  on  the  site  well 
known  as  the  grave  of  Gov.  Bradford,  by  several  of  his 
descendants.  It  stands  on  the  easterly  brow  of  the  hill, 
and  is  8i  feet  from  the  ground,  and  of  pyramidal  form. 
This  point  overlooks  the  middle  street  of  Plymouth,  at 
the  lower  end  of  which  stands  a  house,  on  or  adjoining 
the   spot  consecrated  as  the  first  huryal  ground  of  the 


41 


pilgrims  ;  which  street  is  distinctly  marked  in  the  pre- 
ceding engraved  view. 

Alice  Bradford,  the  widow  of  Gov.  Bradford,  whose 
memory  history  honors,  and  tradition  still  loves  to 
cherish,  was  doubtless  buried  near  this  monument. 
Her  decease  is  thus  mentioned  in  the  Old  Colony  Re- 
cords :  'On  the  26th  day  of  March,  1620,  Mistres 
Allice  Bradford  seni'r  changed  this  life  for  a  better, 
haveing  attained  to  four  score  years  of  age  or  ther- 
abouts.  Shee  was  a  godly  matron,  and  much  loued 
while  shee  lived  and  lamented  tho'  aged  when  she 
died  and  was  honorably  interred  on  the  29th  day  of 
the  month  aforesaid  :  at  New  Plimouth.' 

Near  this  monument,  two  of  Gov.  Bradford's  sons 
are  interred. 

Here  lies  the  body  of  y®  honorable  Major  Wil- 
liam Bradford,  who  expired  Feb.  y^  20th,  1703-4,  aged 
79  years. 

He  lived  long,  but  still  was  doing  good, 
And  in  his  country's  service  lost  much  blod. 
After  a  life  well  spent,  he  's  now  at  rest, 
His  very  name  and  memory  is  blest. 

Here  lyes  interred  y^  body  of  Mr.  Joseph  Bradford 
son  to  the  late  honourable  William  Bradford  Esq. 
Governour  of  Plymouth  Colony  who  departed  this  life 
July  the  10th  1715  in  the  85  year  of  his  age. 

Here  lies  the  body  of  Edward  Gray,  Gent.,  aged 
about  52  years,  and  departed  this  hfe  the  last  of  June, 
1681. 

Mr.  Gray  was  a  distinguished  and  successful  mer- 
chant  and  a  valuable  man  in  his  day  and  genera- 

4* 


42 


tion.  He  lived  in  Rocky-Nook,  and  died  there ;  and 
the  same  field  near  the  water,  on  which  his  house  and 
store  stood,  are  still  owned  by  his  descendants. 

Some  years  ago  a  grave  stone  was  placed  over  the 
remains  of  John  Howland,  by  his  descendant  in  the 
5th  generation,  the  Hon.  John  Howland,  of  Providence, 
President  of  the  Historical  Society  of  Rhode  Island, 
now  in  the  89th  year  of  his  age. 

Here  ended  the  pilgrimage  of  John  Howland  — and 
Elizabeth  his  wife.  She  was  the  daus^hter  of  Gov. 
Carver.  They  arrived  in  the  Mayflower,  Dec.  1620. 
They  had  four  sons  and  six  daughters,  from  whom 
have  descended  a  numerous  posterity. 

1672,  Feb.  23d.  John  Howland  of  Plymouth,  de- 
ceased. He  lived  to  the  age  of  80  years.  He  was  the 
last  man  of  them  that  came  over  in  the  Mayflower, 
who  settled  in  Plymouth. 

Here  lies  buried  the  body  of  Mr.  Wm.  Crow,  pfged 
about  55  years,  who  deed  January  1683—4.  '' 

Here  lies  ye  body  of  Mrs.  Hannah  Stm-tevant,  aged 
above  64  years.     Dec**  in  March  I7O3. 

Note. — She  was  the  daughter  of  Josiah  Winslow,  a  brother  of  Gov.  Ed- 
ward Winslow,  and  fii-st  married  Wm.  Crow  ;  her  second  husband  was  John 
Sturtevant. 

1695.  Here  lies  buried  y^  body  of  Mr.  Thomas 
Clark,  aged  98  years.  Departed  this  life  March  24, 
1697. 

It  has  long  been  supposed  that  Mr.  Thomas  Clark 
was  mate  of  the  Mayflower ;  but  tradition  upon  this 
point  is  not  entirely  satisfactory.     The  christian  name 


43 


of  the  Clark  who  was  mate  of  this  renowned  vessel,  is 
not  mentioned  in  history.  Thomas  Clark  arrived  in 
the  Ann,  in  1623,  at  which  time  he  was  23  years  of 
age  ;  and  if  he  were  mate  of  the  Mayflower,  was  20 
years  old  when  she  arrived  in  1620.  It  is  at  least  re- 
markable, that  no  mention  of  him  as  such  appears  in 
any  record  extant. 

Here  lyes  the  body  of  Mrs.  Hannah  Clark  wife  to 
Mr.  William  Clark  Dec'^  Feb^-^  y^  20th  1687  in  the  29'*^ 
year  of  her  age. 

Here  lieth  buried  the  body  of  that  precious  servant 
of  God,  Mr.  Thomas  Cushman,  who,  after  he  had 
served  his  generation  according  to  the  will  of  God, 
and  particularly  the  church  of  Plymouth  for  many 
years  in  the  office  of  a  ruling-elder,  fell  asleep  in  Jesus 
Dec.  10th,  1691,  and  in  the  84th  year  of  his  age.  Mr. 
Cushman  was  the  son  of  Robert  Cushman.  He  lived 
in  the  latter  period  of  his  life  near  Jones  River ;  and 
the  place  where  he  dwelt  and  the  spring  near  it,  is 
called  Elder  Spring  to  this  day.  It  is  a  short  distance 
south  of  the  Kingston  landing. 

1645.  Here  lies  buried  the  body  of  Mr.  Thomas 
Faunce,  ruling  elder  of  the  first  church  of  Christ  in 
Plymouth.  Deceased  Feb.  27,  1745,  in  the  99th  year 
of  his  age. 

The  fathers — where  are  they  ? 
Blessed  are  the  dead  who  die  iu  the  Lord. 

This  venerable  cotemporary  of  the  Pilgrims  was  the 
last  ruling  elder  of  the  first  church,  from  whom  most  of 


44 


the  traditions,  respecting  the  first  comers,  were  received 
—  a  source  of  information  deserving  of  entire  confi- 
dence. 

*  Here  lies  the  body  of  Joseph  Bartlett,  who  departed 
this  life,  April  the  9th,  1703,  in  the  88th  year  of  his 
age. 

Thousands  of  years  before  blest  Abel's  fall, 
'Twas  said  of  him  beiug  dead  he  speaketh  yet. 
From  silent  grave  methinks  I  hear  a  voice. 
Pray  fellow  mortal  do  'nt  your  death  forget; 
You  that  your  eyes  cast  on  this  grave, 
Know  you  a  dying  time  must  have. 

Here  lyeth  y^  body  of  the  honourable  James  Warren 
Esq.  who  deceased  June  y^  29"'  1715  in  y^  50th  year 
of  his  age. 

Note. — He  was  the  youngest  son  of  Nathaniel  Warren  ■ — and  in  the  3d 
generation  from  Eichard,  of  the  Mayflower.  His  decease  is  thus  noticed  in 
the  Records  of  the  first  church  ;  '  died,  James  Warren,  Esq.,  in  y«  50'^  year 
of  his  age:  an  exceeding  loss  to  the  Church  Town  and  County.' 

Here  lyes  y^  body  of  Francis  Le  Baron  Physician 
who  departed  this  fife  Aug'*  y^  8th  1704  in  the  36  year 
of  his  age. 

Note. — Dr.  Le  Baron  was  Surgeon  on  board  a  French  privateer,  which 
was  wrecked  in  Buzzard's  Bay.  He  came  to  Plymouth,  and  having  per- 
formed an  important  surgical  operation,  the  selectmen  petitioned  the  Exec- 
utive of  the  Colony,  for  his  liberation  as  prisoner  of  war,  that  he  might  set- 
tle in  this  town.  We  believe  that  from  this  ancestor  all  of  the  name  in  the 
United  States  are  descended. 

*  It  has  generally  been  supposed,  that  the  grave  stone  of  Edward  Gray, 
■was  the  first  placed  on  the  hill  —  the  late  Dr.  Nath'l  Lothrop,  however,  re- 
ceived information  from  an  aged  relative,  from  which  it  appears  that  Mr. 
Bartlett's  was  &r&tplaced  there,  though  his  death  was  sometime  subsequent 
to  that  of  Mr.  Gray. 


45 


Here  lyes  buried  the  body  of  the  Reverend  Ephraim 
Little,  Pastor  of  the  Church  of  Christ  at  Plymouth  aged 
47  years  2  m''  and  3  D^     Deceased  Nov.  y«  24th  1723. 

Note.— Mr.  Little  was  the  first  minister  buried  in  Plymouth  —  after  the 
lapse  of  one  hundred  and  three  years  from  its  settlement.  He  left  no  chil- 
dren and  his  widow  was  liberally  supported  by  annual  grants  from  the  town 
during  her  life. 

This  stone  is  erected  to  the  memory  of  that  unbias- 
sed judge,  faithful  officer,  sincere  friend,  and  honest 
man.  Coll.  Isaac  Lothrop,  who  resigned  this  life,  on  the 
26'^  day  of  April,  1750,  in  the  43  year  of  his  age. 

Had  virtue's  charms  the  power  to  save, 
Its  faithful  votaries  from  the  grave, 
This  stone  had  ne'er  possessed  the  fame, 
Of  being  marked  with  Lothrop's  name. 

Note.— Col.  Lothrop  was  a  descendant,  in  the  fourth  generation,  from  the 
Rev.  John  Lothrop,  who  settled  in  the  ministry  at  Scituate,  in  the  year  1634, 
and  removed  from  thence  to  Barnstable,  with  most  of  his  church,  in  1639. 

Departed  this  life,  23^  June,  1796,  in  the  90*^  year  of 
her  age,  madam  Priscilla  Hobart,  relict  of  the  Rev. 
Noah  Hobart,  late  of  Fairfield,  in  Connecticut,  her  third 
husband.  Her  first  and  second  were  John  Watson, 
Esq.,  and  hon.  Isaac  Lothrop. 

Wilham  Thomas,  M.  D.   Died  Sep.  20, 1802,  aged 

84  years. 

Note.  —  Dr.  Thomas  was  a  descendant  in  the  4th  generation  from  Wm. 
Thomas,  who  arrived  in  the  colony  and  settled  at  Marshfield,  about  the  year 
1630,  and  died  in  Aug.  1651.  He  was  in  the  Medical  Staff  of  the  army  at 
the  capture  of  Louisburg,  in  1745  —  and  at  Crown  Point  in  1758.  Soon  after 
the  battle  of  Lexington,  in  1775,  he  joined  the  first  organized  corps  of  the 
araiy,  with  his  four  sons,  viz.:  Joshua,  Joseph,  John,  and  Nathaniel,  an  in- 

auce  of  family  patriotism  of  rar^  occurrence. 


46 


Here  lies  the  body  of  the  hon.  Josiah  Cotton  Esq., 
who  died  19  August  1756,  aged  76  years  and  7 
months. 

Note. — He  was  the  son  of  Eev.  John  Cotton,  who  was  ordained  minister 
of  the  first  church  of  Plymouth,  in  1669,  and  afterwards  of  a  church  in 
Charleston,  S.  C,  where  he  died  in  1696,  and  grandson  of  John  Cotton, 
minister  of  Boston.  He  was  Register  of  Deeds  for  the  County  of  Plymouth, 
for  more  than  40  years,  and  left  a  diary  of  great  histox-ical  value. 

This  stone  consecrated  to  the  memory  of  the  Rev. 
Chandler  Robbins,  D.D.,  was  errected  by  the  inhabit- 
ants of  the  first  religious  society  in  Plymouth,  as  their 
last  grateful  tribute  of  respect  for  his  eminent  labors 
in  the  ministry  of  Jesus  Christ,  which  commenced  Jan- 
uary 80*^  1760,  and  continued  till  his  death,  June  30*^ 
1799,  ^tatis  61,  when  he  entered  into  that  everlasting 
rest  prepared  for  the  faithful  embassadors  of  the  most 
high  God. 

Ah.  come  Heav'ns  radient  offspring,  hither  throng. 
Behold  your  prophet,  your  Elijah  fled ; 
Let  sacred  symphony  attune  each  tongue 
To  chant  hosannas  with  the  sacred  dead. 

Note. — Dr.  Eobbins  was  born  at  Branford,  Connecticut,  the  24th  of  Aug. 
1738,  and  was  the  son  of  the  Eev.  Philemon  Eobbins,  then  minister  of  that 
place. 

Sacred  to  the  memory  of  Rev.  Adoniram  Judson,  who 
died  Nov.  25,  1826,  M.  75.  A  faithful  and  devoted 
minister  of  Christ. 

Adoniram  Judson,  D.D.,  Missionary  of  the  American 
Baptist  Missionary  Union  to  the  Burman  empire,  who 
died  at  sea,  April  12,  1850,  M.  62  years. 

The  following  lines  copied  from  the  grave  stone  of 


47 


the  late  Samuel  Davis,  Esq.,*  may  appropriately  find 
a  place  in  the  closing  pages  of  inscriptions  connected 
with  the  Pilgrims : 

From  life  on  earth  our  pensive  friend  retires, 
His  dust  commingling  with  the  pilgrim  sires, 
In  thoughtful  walk,  their  every  path  he  traced, 
Their  toils,  their  tombs,  his  faithful  page  embraced, 
Peaceful  and  pure  and  innocent  as  they, 
With  them  to  rise,  to  everlasting  day. 

In  memory  of  seventy-two  seamen,  who  perished  in 
Plymouth  harbor,  on  the  26th  and  27th  days  of  Decem- 
ber, 1778,  on  board  of  the  private  armed  Brig,  General 
Arnold,  of  20  guns,  numbering  in  officers  and  crew, 
106  persons  in  all,  James  Magee,  of  Boston,  Com- 
mander ;  sixty  of  whom  were  buried  on  this  spot,  and 
twelve,  in  other  parts  of  the  Hill. 

Plymouth  harbor  ordinarily  affords  the  means  of 
safety  instead  of  danger,  to  the  mariner  on  approach- 
ing our  coast,  when  the  storms  of  winter  naturally  in- 
crease the  perils  connected  with  his  hazardous  pursuits. 
The  number  of  shipwrecks  therefore,  which  have  occur- 
red here  since  the  Pilgrims  landed,  has  probably  been 
less  than  at  first  sight  might  be  expected. 

Our  annals  present  no  instance  of  a  disaster  so  try- 
ing in  its  circumstances,  or  involving  so  large  a  loss  of 

*  On  the  occasion  of  an  anniversary  celebration,  some  years  ago,  the  Rev. 
Dr.  Peirce  of  Brookline,  and  Mr.  Davis  were  in  conversation  together,  at 
■which  time  several  gentlemen  entered  the  room,  when  the  Doctor  intro- 
duced his  friend,  by  observing,  'Gentlemen,  this  is  Mr.  Davis,  who  can  tell 
us  where  we  all  came  from  ^  — to  which  Mr.  D.  promptly  repUed,  'Gentle- 
men, this  is  Dr.  Peirce,  who  can  tell  us  where  we  are  all  going  to: 


48 


lives,  as  that  briefly  stated  in  the  preceding  epitaph ; 
none  so  exciting  to  the  feelings  of  the  observer,  or 
fraught  with  such  striking  alternations  of  fear,  hope, 
and  unutterable  distress  to  the  sufferers ;  a  scene,  which 
age  recalls  and  describes,  with  a  vividness  and  particu- 
larity of  detail,  showing  how  deeply  its  stern  realities 
stand  engraved  on  the  memory  of  those,  who  after  the 
lapse  of  nearly  seventy-three  years,  still  survive,  to  re- 
hearse the  awful  calamity. 

The  two  following  documents,  which  so  minutely 
describe  the  disastrous  fate  of  the  Brig  Gen.  Arnold, 
have  never  appeared  in  any  published  history  of  the 
town,  and  are  here  presented,  as  containing  the  most 
full  and  accurate  account  now  extant.   . 

[From  the  Boston  Gazette^  Jan,  4,  1779.] 

'  On  Friday,  the  25th  ult,  at  6  A.M.,  the  wind  to 
the  westward,  sailed  from  this  port,  the  Brig  Greneral 
Arnold,  James  Magee,  Commander,  and  about  meridi- 
an the  wind  chopped  round  to  N.  E.,  and  looking 
likely  for  a  gale,  they  thought  best  to  put  into  Ply- 
mouth, and  come  to  anchor  in  a  place  called  the  Cow- 
yard.  On  Saturday  the  gale  increasing,  she  started 
from  her  anchor  and  struck  on  the  White  Flat.  They 
then  cut  both  cable  and  masts  away  in  hopes  to  drive 
over,  but  she  immediately  bilged,  it  being  low  water 
left  her  quarter  deck  dry,  where  all  hands  got  for 
reUef.  A  schooner  lying  within  hail,  heard  their  cries, 
but  could  not  assist  them.  On  Sunday,  the  inhab- 
itants were  cutting  ice  most  of  the  day  before  they 
got   on   board,  when   they  saw  75  ^of  the  men  had 


49 


perished,  and  34  very  much  frozen,  which  they  got  on 
shore,  and  on  MondJiy  they  got  on  shore  and  buried 
the  dead.  Great  part  of  her  stores,  &c.,  will  be  saved. 
Some  evil  minded  persons  have  raised  a  report,  that 
she  was  plundered  by  the  inhabitants,  which  is  entirely 
false,  as  they  behaved  with  the  greatest  humanity. 
The  following  are  the  persons  taken  off  the  wreck  of 
the  General  Arnold,  that  survived  the  shipwreck.  Capt. 
James  Magee,  John  Steal,  Jotham  Haughton,  George 
Pilsbury,  Peter  Moorfield,  Robert  Hinman,  Dennis  Flin, 

Thomas    Farmer,    Stevens,    John    Bubbey, 

James    Hutchinson,    Andrew    Kelley,    Francis    Fires, 

Daniel   English,   Robert  Mitson,  James  Kent,  — ; 

Robertson,  James  Rughley,  of  Boston  ;  James  Wil- 
liams,  David  Williams,   Chelsea;    George   Chockley, 

Bedford  ;  Eleazer  Thayer, Potter,  Providence  ; 

Wm.  Russell,  Vineyard ;  Abel  W^illis,  Edward  Bur- 
gess, Jethro  Naughton, Coffin, Merchant, 

William  Gardner, Chapman,  Martha  Vineyard ; 

Dunham,  Falmouth ;  Barnabas  Lathrop,  Bar- 
nabas Barnes,  Barnstable.' 


[Uxtraet  from  the  Boston  Evening  Post,  Saturday/,  Jan, 
23,  1779.] 

*  Messieurs  Printers  :  — By  inserting  the  following 
you  will  oblige  your  humble  servant, 

James  Magee. 

*  As  I  am  informed  a  report  has  circulated  through 
the  country,  that  myself  and  people  did  not  receive 
that  relief  and  assistance  to  which  the  distressed  and 


50 


unfortunate  are  ever  entitled,  justice  to  the  inhabitants 
of  the  town  of  Plymouth,  in  which  harbor  I  was 
unhappily  shipwrecked,  indispensably  requires  of  me  to 
contradict  so  groundless  a  report  and  state  the  circum- 
stances. 

'  Agreeable  to  the  account  before  published,  in  the 
morning  of  the  26th  ultimo,  in  the  severest  of  all  storms, 
the  brigantine  I  commanded,  (called  the  General  Ar- 
nold,) dragged  her  anchors  and  struck  on  a  white  flat, 
notwithstanding  every  effort  and  precaution  to  prevent 
it ;  in  about  12  hours  after  she  bilged.  The  quarter 
deck  was  the  only  place  that  could  afford  the  most 
distant  prospect  of  safety,  and  a  few  hours  presented  a 
scene  there,  that  to  mention  the  particulars  of  which, 
would  shock  the  least  delicate  humanity.  Some  of 
my  people  were  stifled  to  death  with  the  snow,  others 
perished  with  the  extremity  of  the  cold,  and  a  few  were 
washed  off  the  deck  and  drowned.  The  morning  of 
the  28th,  so  ardently  wished  for,  discovered  a  spectacle 
the  most  dreadful :  forty  or  fifty  men,  who  the  day 
before  were  strong  and  healthy  lying  dead  on  the  deck 
in  all  manner  of  attitudes.  The  survivors  finding 
themselves  within  a  mile  of  the  shore  entertained  the 
most  sanguine  hopes  of  being  taken  off  the  wreck  and 
rescued  from  the  frozen  and  premature  fate  that 
awaited  them ;  but  though  constant  and  repeated 
attempts  were  made  for  this  purpose  by  the  good 
people  of  Plymouth,  during  the  whole  day,  we  were 
so  situated,  that  all  human  endeavors  to  relieve  us 
were  exerted  in  vain.  Several  of  my  men  imagining 
from  this  circumstance  that  death  was  inevitable,  gave 


51 


way  to  despair  and  instantly  yielded  up  the  ghost. 
We  continued  in  this  deplorable  and  suffering  con- 
dition until  Monday,  the  29th,  at  12  of  the  clock,  when 
the  inhabitants  of  Plymouth  were  enabled  to  bring  us 
off  the  wreck,  and  receive  us  to  their  houses  and 
administered  every  thing  to  us  that  was  necessary  and 
comfortable,  with  that  tenderness  and  social  sympathy 
which  do  honor  to  human  nature.  The  dead,  amount- 
ing in  the  whole  to  72  men  were  carried  on  shore  and 
decently  buried  as  soon  as  possible ;  some,  indeed, 
who  were  alive  were  saved  only  to  drag  out  a  few 
miserable  days  in  the  extreme  of  pain  and  then  expire. 
An  universal  disposition  was  shown  to  secure  every 
thing  belonging  to  the  owners  and  people,  and  the 
minutest  article,  wheresoever  found,  was  sacredly  taken 
care  of,  of  which  I  shall  always  retain  a  grateful 
rememembrance  as  well  as  of  that  kind  Providence 
which  preserved  my  life.' 

The  preceding  letter,  written  soon  after  the  terrific 
event  which  it  so  vividly  describes,  discloses  traits  of 
character  highly  honorable  to  the  writer,  indicating  a 
sense  of  justice,  prompt  to  rebuke  the  misrepresenta- 
tions of  falsehood,  unfailing  courage  and  self-control 
in  the  hour  of  imminent  danger,  and  sentiments  of 
gratitude,  deeply  felt  and  warmly  expressed. 

Several  facts  have  been  preserved  not  mentioned  in 
the  letter  of  Capt.  Magee.  Some  of  his  men  having 
broached  a  cask  of  spirits,  which  they  used  so  freely  as 
to  endanger  their  lives,  he  stove  it  to  pieces,  reserving 
only  a  small  quantity,  which  he  poured  into  their 
boots   and  his  own,  without  suffering  them  to  drink. 


52 


Joshua  Thomas,  Esq.,  of  this  town  states,  that  about 
thirty-five  years  ago,  on  a  visit  to  Marthas  Vineyard, 
he  met  with  Mr.  Merchant*,  at  that  time  a  clerk  of  the 
Court  and  a  survivor  of  the  shipwreck.  Mr.  Merchant 
was  about  ten  years  of  age  when  the  Gen.  Arnold  was 
lost,  and  ascribed  his  preservation  mainly  to  the 
reiterated  efforts  of  Capt.  Magee,  urging  him  not  to 
give  up. 

Mr.  Thomas  further  states,  that  his  aged  mother, 
recently  deceased,  frequently  adverted  to  the  fact,  that 
in  conversation  with  Capt.  Magee,  sometime  after, 
respecting  the  disastrous  fate  of  the  Gen.  Ai'nold,  he 
was  entirely  overcome  and  could  not  refrain  from 
tears.  The  late  Dr.  Thacher,  in  his  account  of  this 
disaster  observes,  'that  on  Monday  the  inhabitants 
passed  over  the  ice  to  the  wreck.  Here  was  presented 
a  scene  unutterably  awful  and  distressing.  It  is 
scarcely  possible  for  the  human  mind  to  conceive  of  a 
more  appalling  spectacle.  The  ship  was  sunk  ten  feet 
in  the  sand,  the  waves  had  been  for  about  thirty-six 
hours  sweeping  the  main  deck,  the  men  had  crowded 
to  the  quarter  deck  and  even  here  they  were  obliged  to 
pile  together  dead  bodies  to  make  room  for  the  living. 
Seventy  dead  bodies  frozen  into  all  imaginable  postures 
were  strewed  over  the  deck,  or  attached  to  the  shrouds 
and  spars  ;  about  thirty  exhibited  signs  of  life,  but  were 
uncoucious  whether  in  life  or  death.  The  bodies  remain- 
ed in  the  posture  in  which  they  died ;  the  features  dread- 
fully distorted ;  some  were  erect,  some  bending  forward, 
some  sitting"  with  the  head  resting  on  the  knees,  and 

♦This  name  is  usually  written  Marchant. 


53 


some  with  both  arms  extended,  clinging  to  spars  or 
some  parts  of  the  vessel.  The  dead  were  piled  on 
the  floor  of  the  Com't  House,  and  it  is  said  that  Dr. 
Robbins  fainted  when  called  to  perform  the  religious 
services.'  Among  those  who  perished  were  Dr.  M  inr^, 
of  Attleborough,  Dr.  Sears,  Capt.  John  Russell,  of 
Barnstable,  Commander  of  the  Marines,  and  Lieut. 
Daniel  Hall.  The  names  of  the  two  last  are  inscribed 
on  a  stone  at  the  southeast  side  of  the  hill.  From  the 
most  authentic  source  it  is  understood,  that  Capt, 
James  Magee  was  an  Irishman  by  birth,  and  married 
a  near  relative  of  the  late  Genl.  Simon  Elliot,  of 
Boston.  After  the  revolution  he  made  three  voyages 
to  Canton  direct,  and  one  of  three  years'  duration  to 
the  Northwest  Coast,  and  from  thence  to  Canton.  In 
the  year  1789,  on  his  third  voyage  to  Canton,  he  com- 
manded the  ship  Astreea,  owned  by  Mr.  Derby,  of 
Salem,  the  supercargo  on  board  for  the  voyage,  being 
the  venerable  Col.  Thomas  H.  Perkins,  still  living  in 
Boston,  the  distinguished  public  benefactor  of  our 
times,  who  was  warmly  attached  to  him  through  life, 
and  was  \^ath  him  at  his  death,  which  occurred  in  the 
year  1798,  at  the  age  of  about  45  years.  It  was 
thought  that  his  constitution  had  been  permanently 
injured  by  his  sufferings  at  Plymouth.  He  was  in 
the  practice  of  assembling  the  survivors  to  an  annual 
dinner  whenever  he  was  at  home,  on  the  anniversary 
of  their  rescue.  He  left  three  sons  and  six  daughters, 
all  of  whom  with  their  mother  are  now  deceased.  The 
last  survivor  of  his  daughters  was  the  wife  of  the  Hon. 
Jonathan  Phillips,  of  Boston,  who  died  recently ;    and 

5* 


54 


his  only  surviving  descendant  now,  is  the  daughter  of 
Capt.  Charles  Magee,  married  to  a  son  of  the  Hon. 
Judge  Walker,  of  Lenox,  in  this  State. 

On   a  bright  summer's  day,  at  full  tide,  let   some 
thoughtful  observer  come 

♦  To  the  hill  of  hallowed  brow, 
Where  the  pilgi-im  sleepeth  now.' 

Let  him  come  when  no  cloud  obscures  the  heavens, 
and  the  hushed  air  breathes  no  whisper,  when  the 
unruffled  ocean  holds  mirrored  on  its  tranquil  bosom, 
the  varied  forms  of  surrounding  objects,  and  the 
chastened  feelings  of  the  hour,  court  the  sympathy  of 
nature's  repose,  symbol  of  that  deeper  repose,  brooding 
over  the  sleep  of  many  generations.  Facing  the  beau- 
tiful expanse  of  waters  before  him,  the  green  ridge  of 
Manomet  is  seen,  rising  nearly  four  hundred  feet  above 
the  ocean,  having  the  beach  stretching  its  slender  form 
from  its  northerly  side  three  miles  in  extent,  reposing 
quietly  beneath  its  misty  veil  of  blue,  as  if  to  gain 
fresh  vigor,  to  encounter  the  furious  congregation  of 
billows,  that  often  beat  and  foam  against  the  huge 
rocks  that  encircle  its  base.  Extending  his  vision 
across  the  bay,  a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles,  the 
white  cliffs  of  Cape  Cod  appear  as  if  suspended  in 
mid-air  by  some  secret  enchantment  of  nature.  Con- 
tracting his  vision  within  a  narrower  compass,  it  rests 
on  the  white  towers  of  the  gurnet  light  house,  reflected 
in  the  depths  below,  occupying  the  extreme  point  of 
Marshfield  beach,  seven  miles  from  the   main  land  ; 


35 


from  whence  the  gleaming  messenger  of*  hope  may 
sooner  penetrate  the  darkness  of  night,  and  guide  the 
lost  mariner  to  some  haven  of  safety.  Protected  by 
Saquish  head,  stands  Clark's  Island,  where  the  wrecked 
shallop  of  the  Mayflower,  shrouded  in  darkness,  and 
just  escaping  destruction  from  the  foaming  breakers  of 
the  neighboring  cove,  at  last  found  shelter,  and  the 
weather-beaten  pilgrim,  in  his  joyous  hour  of  safety 
from  peril,  '  thanked  God  and  took  courage.'  Beyond 
lies  the  extended  village  of  Dux  bury,  sparkling  in  sun- 
light, reaching  to  the  Hill  of  Stan  dish,  full  of  interest- 
ing associations ;  and  Kingston,  with  its  neat  dwell- 
ings, scattered  along  between  pleasant  groves,  and 
teeming  flood,  terminating  the  survey  of  hills  and 
plains  and  waters,  which  once  formed  the  active  scene 
of  intense .  labor,  perilous  enterprise  and  enduring 
power,  to  men  whose  ashes  now  mingle  with  the 
ground  on  which  the  rapt  observer  stands. 

COLE'S    HILL. 

How  sadly  winds  the  funeral  train 
With  feeble  step  across  the  plain  ! 
What  anguish  wrings  affection's  breast, 
That  laid  the  Pilgnm  to  his  rest ! 
No  requiem  his,  but  ocean's  roar, 
That  broke  in  moans  along  the  shore, 
Or  storms  and  waves  that  raging  sweep. 
While  gushing  hearts  are  left  to  weep. 

Cole's  Hill  is  an  open  green  spot  fronting  the  harbor, 
a  short  distance  above  Forefather's  Rock,  commanding 
a  beautiful  view  of  the  ocean  and  high  lands,  by 
which  the  bay  is  encircled.     It  was  the  first  burial 


be 


ground  of  the  Pilgrims.  On  inspection  it  will  be  found 
to  have  undergone  considerable  changes,  since  its  first 
consecration  as  a  temporary  receptacle  of  the  dead. 
In  the  year  1735,  a  severe  storm  occurred,  and  large 
quantities  of  water  rushing  through  Middle  street, 
washed  away  some  portion  of  the  banks,  carrying  in 
its  current  the  remains  of  several  bodies,  deposited 
there  in  the  winter  of  1620,  and  spring  of  1621.  In 
the  year  1809,  a  human  skull  was  disinterred,  the 
teeth  of  which  were  in  a  perfect  state  of  preservation. 
The  traditions  respecting  this  place,  and  its  consecrated 
uses  by  the  Pilgrims,  were  received  from  the  same 
unquestionable  sources,  as  are  mentioned  in  the  ac- 
count of  Forefather's  Rock,  on  page  7  of  this  work, 
and  are  stated  by  Dr.  Holmes,  in  his  American  Annals, 
and  by  the  venerable  Judge  Davis,  in  a  ^ote  to  his 
edition  of  the  New  England  Memorial,  to  have  been 
received  by  them  many  years  ago. 

About  fifty  of  those  who  came  in  the  Mayflower 
were  buried  on  this  spot,  near  the  foot  of  Middle 
street,  among  them  were  Gov.  Carver,  William  White, 
Rose  Standish,  the  wife  of  Capt.  Standish,  Elizabeth, 
the  wife  of  Edward  Winslow,  Christopher  Martin, 
William  Mullins,  John  and  Edward  Tilley,  Thomas 
Rogers,  Mary,  the  wife  of  Isaac  Allerton. 

The  suffering,  death,  and  funeral  solemnities,  of 
which  this  spot  was  once  the  trying  scene,  have  been 
the  subject  of  a  description  so  consonant  to  the  most 
elevated  principles  of  our  nature,  that  no  better  service 
can  be  rendered  to  every  thoughtful  observer,  than  its 
transcription  into  these  pages. 


57 


*  *  In  a  late  undesigned  visit  to  Plymouth,  I  sought 
the  spot  where  their  earlier  dead  were  buried.  It  was 
a  bank  you  remember,  somewhat  elevated,  below  the 
town  and  between  it  and  the  water,  near  and  looking 
forth  upon  the  waves,  symbol  of  what  life  had  been  to 
them ;  ascending  inland,  behind  and  above  the  rock,  a 
symbol  of  that  rock  of  ages,  on  which  the  dying  had 
rested  in  the  final  hour.  As  the  Pilgrim  found  these 
localities,  you  might  stand  on  that  bank  and  hear  the 
restless  waters  chafe  and  melt  against  its  steadfast 
bank  ;  the  unquiet  of  the  world  composed  itself  at  the 
portals  of  the  grave.  On  that  spot  have  laid  to  rest 
together,  the  earth  carefully  smoothed  down  that  the 
Indian  might  not  count  the  number,  the  true,  the 
pious,  the  beautiful,  and  the  brave,  till  the  heavens  be 
no  more.  There  certainly  was  buried  the  first  Gover- 
nor, (Carver,)  "w4th  three  vollies  of  shot  fired  over 
him ; "  and  there  was  buried  Rose  the  wife  of  Miles 
Standish. 

"  You  shall  go  to  them,"  wrote  Robinson  in  the  same 
letter  from  which  I  have  read,  "  but  they  shall  not 
return  to  you." 

'  I  can  seem  to  see,  on  a  day  quite  towards  the  close 
of  their  first  month  of  March,  a  diminished  procession 
of  the  Pilgrims,  following  another  dearly  loved  and 
newly  dead,  to  that  brink  of  graves ;  and  pausing  sadly 
there,  before  they  shall  turn  away  to  see  that  face  no 
more.  In  full  view  from  that  spot,  is  the  Mayflower, 
still  riding  at  her  anchor,  but  to  sail  in  a  few  days 

*  Choate's  Oration  delivered  before  the  New  England  Society,  at  New 
York,  Dec.  22,  1843. 


58 


more  for  England,  leaving  them  alone,  the  living  and 
the  dead,  to  the  weal  or  woe  of  their  new  home.  I 
cannot  say  what  was  the  entire  emotion  of  that 
moment  and  that  scene,  but  the  tones  of  the  venerated 
elder's  voice,  as  they  gathered  round  him,  were  full  of 
cheerful  trust ;  and  they  went  to  hearts  as  noble  as  his 
own !  This  spot,  he  might  say,  "  this  line  of  shore, 
yea,  this  whole  land  grows  dearer,  daily,  were  it  only 
for  the  precious  dust  which  we  have  committed  to  its 
bosom.  I  would  sleep  here,  when  my  own  hour 
comes,  rather  than  elsewhere,  with  those  who  have 
shared  with  us  in  our  exceeding  labors,  and  whose 
burdens  are  now  unloosed  forever.  I  would  be  near 
them  in  the  last  day,  and  have  a  part  in  their  resurrec- 
tion. And  now,"  he  proceeded,  "  let  us  go  from  the 
side  of  the  grave  to  work  with  all  our  might  what  we 
have  to  do.  It  is  in  my  mind  that  our  night  of  sorrow 
is  well  nigh  ended,  and  that  the  joy  of  our  morning  is 
at  hand.  The  breath  of  the  pleasant  southwest  is 
here,  and  the  singing  of  birds. .  The  sore  sickness 
is  stayed,  somewhat  more  than  half  our  number 
remain,  and  among  them  some  of  our  best  and  wisest, 
though  others  have  fallen  asleep.  Matter  of  joy  and 
thanksgiving  to  Almighty  God  it  is,  that  among  you 
all,  the  living  and  the  dead,  I  know  not  one,  even 
when  disease  had  touched  him,  and  sharp  grief  had 
made  his  heart  as  a  little  child's,  who  desired,  yea,  who 
could  have  been  entreated  to  go  back  to  England  by 
yonder  ship.  Plainly  it  is  his  will,  that  we  stand  or 
fall  here.  All  his  providences,  these  three  hundred 
years,  declare  it,  as  with  beams  of  the  sun.     Did  he 


59 


not  set  his  bow  in  the  clouds,  in  that  bitter  hour  of 
embarking,  and  build  his  glorious  arch  upon  the  sea, 
for  us  to  sail  through  hitherward  ?  Wherefore,  let  us 
stand  to  our  lot !  If  he  prosper  us  we  shall  found  a 
church,  against  which  the  gates  of  hell  shall  not  pre- 
vail ;  and  a  colony,  a  nation,  by  which  all  the  nations 
shall  be  healed,  and  shall  be  saved.  Millions  shall 
spring  from  our  loins,  and  trace  back  with  lineal  love, 
their  blood  to  ours.  Centuries  hereafter,  in  great 
cities,  the  capitals  of  mighty  states,  and  from  the  tribes 
of  a  common  and  happy  Israel,  shall  come  together, 
the  good,  the  distinguished,  the  wise,  to  remember  our 
dark  day  of  small  things  ;  yea,  generations  shall  call 
us  blessed." 

*  Without  a  sign,  calmly,  with  triumph,  they  turned 
away  from  the  grave ;  they  sent  the  Mayflower  away 
and  went  back,  those  stern,  strong  men,  to  their 
imperial  labors.' 

CLARK'S    ISLAND. 

Tlie  modest  isle  of  yonder  bay, 
Screened  from  the  rougher  blasts  and  spray, 
There,  long  by  storm  and  billow  driven. 
With  mast  and  sail  to  fragments  riven, 
The  wanderers  sought  its  welcome  shore, 
And  safe  their  struggling  shallop  moor; 
There  watchful  met  the  earliest  dawn, 
Which  first  revealed  the  Sabbath  morn, 
That  prayer  and  praise  might  o'er  the  deep 
Their  swelling  strains  harmonious  keep. 
New  England's  first  born  Sabbath  day, 
On  time's  dark  flood  has  passed  away, 
The  Pilgrim  chant  is  heard  no  more. 
That  echoed  once  upon  that  shore. 


60 


And  hushed  the  lips  whose  accents  gave 
Their  grateful  notes  to  wind  and  wave, 
But  still  the  hours  of  peaceful  rest 
From  earthly  cares,  are  ever  blest, 
And  wing  our  thought  to  scenes  divine, 
Where  faith  and  hope  no  more  decline. 


This  Island  received  its  name  from  Clark,  the 
master's  mate  of  the  ship  Mayflower.  It  is  in  some 
measure  sheltered  from  the  ocean  by  Saquish  on  the 
south  and  Marshfield  beach  on  the  east.  It  presents  a 
beautiful  feature  in  the  scenery  of  Plymouth  harbor, 
distant  three  miles  from  town,  but  is  chiefly  interesting 
in  connection  with  the  Pilgrims,  who  providentially 
found  a  shelter  by  its  side  on  the  night  of  December 
8th,  1620.  Having  taken  their  departure  from  East- 
ham  and  coasted  along  Barnstable  Bay  about  45  miles, 
and  being  overtaken  by  a  storm  on  entering  Plymouth 
harbor,  they  narrowly  escaped  running  the  shallop  into  a 
cove  full  of  breakers,  which  is  formed  between  the  gurnet 
light  house  and  Saquish  head,  a  distance  of  about  two 
miles.  On  approaching  the  breakers  a  resolute  sea- 
man at  the  helm  cried  out  to  the  oarsmen,  *  if  they 
were  men,  about  with  her,  or  they  were  all  cast  away  ;' 
which  call  was  promptly  executed,  and  favored  by  the 
flood-tide,  they  weathered  Saquish  head  and  secured  a 
shelter.  Here  they  Idndled  a  fire  and  spent  the  night. 
In  the  morning  they  explored  the  island,  without  find- 
ing either  dwellings  or  inhabitants.  The  weather  being 
extremely  cold,  Saturday  the  9th  was  spent  in  recruit- 
ing their  strength,  drying  their  arms,  and  repairing 
the  shallop.  The  next  day  being  Sunday,  'they  rested,' 
and  kept  the  first  New  England  Sabbath,  notwithstand- 


61 


ing  the  urgent  necessity  then  existing,  to  hasten  their 
explorations,  for  some  place  of  permanent  settlement. 

On  Monday,  the  11th  of  December,  they  sounded 
the  harbor,  and  landed  on  the  Rock  of  Plymouth, 
which  date  corresponds  with  the  21st  of  December, 
new  style,  according  to  the  decision  of  our  best  astrono- 
mers, though  the  22d  has  usually  been  the  day  of 
anniversary  celebrations. 

In  the  year  1637,  '  The  court  granted,  that  Clark's 
Island,  the  Eel  River  beach,  saquish  and  the  gurnet's 
nose,  shall  be  and  remain  unto  the  town  of  Plymouth.' 
The  Island  was  originally  well  wooded,  principally 
with  red  cedar,  which  in  after  times  was  frequently 
converted  into  gate  posts  for  the  supply  of  Boston 
market.  Four  or  five  weather  beaten  tenants  of  this 
spot  still  remain,  and  might  in  their  days  of  youthful 
vigor,  have  formed  part  of  the  forest  which  poetry  has 
delightfully  personified  in  connection  with  the  Fathers, 

'  When  the  leafless  woods  repeated 
The  music  of  their  psalm, 
,  When  they  shook  the  depths  of  the  desert  gloom 
With  their  song  of  lofty  cheer.' 

This  Island  contains  865  acres,  according  to  a  sur- 
vey ordered  by  Sir  Edmund  Andros,  Feb.  23d,  1687, 
executed  by  Phillip  Wells,  and  was  pronounced  by 
Gov.  Hutchinson  one  of  the  best  in  Massachusetts.  It 
was  sold  by  the  town,  in  1690,  to  Samuel  Lucas,  El- 
kanah  Watson,  and  George  Morton.  The  late  John 
Watson,  Esq.,  was  the  proprietor  of  the  Island,  where 
he  resided  about  40  years,  and  died  Feb.  1,  1826,  in 
the  78th  year  of  his  age.     He  was  one  of  the  founders 


62 


of  the  Old  Colony  Club,  in  1769,  and  President  of  the 
Pilgrim  Society  after  the  year  1820,  till  his  death. 
The  place  is  now  under  good  cultivation  by  his  son, 
Mr.  Edward  Watson.  On  a  very  accurate  map  of 
Plymouth,  drawn  by  James  Blascowith,  Esq.,  a  Naval 
Engineer,  by  order  of  the  British  Government,  in  the 
year  1774,  a  large  rock  on  the  Island  is  named  Election 
RocJc,  which  according  to  information  obtained  from 
elderly  persons  now  living,  probably  derived  its  name 
from  the  fact,  that  parties  of  pleasure  in  early  times 
resorted  there,  to  spend  election  holidays.  This  map 
probably  contains  the  only  record  extant  here  of  an 
ancient  holiday,  full  of  excitement  to  the  community, 
in  the  former  days  of  New  England. 

It  ought,  perhaps,  to  be  stated  here,  that  history  has 
not  preserved  the  christian  names  of  either  Jones  or 
Clark,  the  master  and  mate  of  the  Mayflower,  or  of 
Reynolds,  master  of  the  Speedwell. 

BILLINGTON  SEA. 

This  beautiful  expanse  of  water,  though  it  may  not 
justly  aspire  to  all  the  dignity  which  its  name  would 
seem  to  import,  and  which,  soon  after  its  discovery, 
received  from  the  planters  themselves,  the  more  unas- 
suming and  appropriate  appellation  of  Fresh  Lake, 
still  possesses  strong  attractions  to  the  lovers  of  nature, 
in  her  more  secluded,  but  not  less  interesting  manifest- 
ations of  beauty. 

It  was  discovered  by  '  Francis  Billington,'  in  1621, 
w^ho  '  having  the  week  before,  (on  the  eighth  of  Janu- 


63 


ary,)  seen  from  the  top  of  a  tree,  on  a  high  hill,  a  great 
sea  as  he  thought,  went  with  the  master's  mate  to  see 
it.'  They  found  seven  or  eight  wigwams,  but  no  in- 
habitants. Whether  these  dwellings  served  for  occa- 
sional accommodation  to  the  Namasket  Indians,  when 
visiting  the  sea-shore  for  shellfish,  or  had  been  deserted 
in  consequence  of  the  destructive  plague  of  1616,  must 
remain  the  subject  of  conjecture  only.  It  is  quite  prob- 
able, howe\;er,  that  the  Indian  path  from  Namasket 
wound  its  way  along  this  woodland  region,  and  so  con- 
tinued on  the  south  side  of  Town  Brook.  It  is  about 
one  and  a  half  miles  long,  and  half  a  mile  in  width 
at  its  extreme  points,  and  six  miles  in  compass  along 
its  winding  shores.  It  imbosoms  an  Island  containing 
two  acres  of  land,  formerly  covered  with  every  variety 
of  forest  trees,  and  now  mostly  replaced  by  an  orchard 
and  dwelling  house.  Some  thirty  years  ago,  it  was 
the  usual  and  favorite  resort  of  social  parties  from  town, 
since  which  it  has  in  some  measure  experienced  the 
rivalship  peculiar  to  all  human  concerns  ;  while  South, 
Long,  and  Herring  Ponds,  having  deeper  water  and 
greater  abundance  of  fish,  often  divert  the  votaries  of 
innocent  amusement  to  their  attractive  shores. 

During  the  last  summer,  this  ancient  and  agreeable 
resort  seems  to  have  acquired  new  favor  in  public 
estimation,  and  among  the  throng  of  visitors  to  Ply- 
mouth, in  quest  of  antiquity,  and  to  seek  relaxation 
from  the  cares  of  city  life,  many  have  found  its  shady 
groves  a  source  of  refreshment  and  delight. 

The  water  power  afforded  by  this  spacious  fountain, 
from  whence  Town  Brook  proceeds  in  its  course  of  two 


64 


miles  to  the  harbor,  is  not  liable  to  the  many  fluctua- 
tions incident  to  most  of  our  streams.  It  has,  from 
time  immemorial,  been  of  great  importance  to  our  citi- 
zens, and  might  with  skilful  improvements,  increase 
the  productive  power  of  our  manufactures  to  a  very 
large  extent. 

In  this  comparatively  sequestered  region,  the  eagle 
stiU  maintains  his  ancient  dominion,  majestically  soar- 
ing above  his  native  hills,  the  abode  of  many  genera- 
tions. Here  the  beautiful  wood  duck  still  roams,  though 
with  diminished  chances  of  success,  in  quest  of  a  seclud- 
ed retreat —  and  the  bounding  deer,  sportively  ranging 
through  forest  and  glade,  finds  refreshment  on  the  mar- 
gin of  its  pure  waters ;  or,  when  heated  in  the  chase 
from  some  perilous  onset  of  the  reckless  hunter,  with 
hurried  flight  venturously  braves  the  welcome  flood, 
his  only  chance  of  security  from  unrelenting  pursuit. 

SAMOSET,  THE  INDIAN  SAGAMORE. 
Sis  Interview  with  the  Pilgrims. 

The  path  through  which  Samoset  came^ 
And  boldly  welcomed  them  by  name, 
Whose  practiced  skill  and  counsel  sage, 
Inscribed  appear  on  history's  page, 
That  tells  his  worth  and  friendship  true, 
And  yields  the  praise  so  justly  due — 
His  comely  form  and  features  stand, 
Portrayed  by  Sargent's  tasteful  hand, 
Beside  the  groupe  of  exiled  name, 
Who  pressed  the  Eock  of  endless  fame. 

The  interview  of  Samoset  with  the  Pilgrims,  was  an 
important  event  in  their  early  history,  and  the  reader 


65 


will  doubtless  desire  an  account  of  it.  The  following 
description  of  this  novel  scene,  by  one  present  on  the 
interesting  occasion,  is  therefore  offered  : 

'  Friday,  the  16th,  a  fair,  warm  day  towards.  This 
morning  we  determined  to  conclude  of  the  military 
orders,  which  we  had  begun  to  consider  of  before,  but 
were  interrupted  by  the  savages,  as  we  mentioned 
formerly.  And  whilst  we  were  busied  hereabout,  we 
were  interrupted  again  ;  for  there  presented  himself  a 
savage,  which  caused  an  alarm.  He  very  boldly  came 
all  alone,  and  along  the  houses,  straight  to  the  rendez- 
vous ;  where  we  intercepted  him,  not  suffering  him  to 
go  in,  as  undoubtedly  he  would  out  of  his  boldness. 
He  saluted  us  in  English,  and  bade  us  '  Welcome ; ' 
for  he  had  learned  some  broken  English  among  the 
Englishmen  that  came  to  fish  at  Monhiggon,  and  knew 
by  name  most  of  the  captains,  commanders,  and  mas- 
tdi-s  that  usually  come.  He  was  a  man  free  in  speech 
so  far  as  he  could  express  his  mind,  and  of  a  seemly 
carriage.  We  questioned  him  of  many  things,  he  was 
the  first  savage  we  could  meet  withal.  He  said  he 
was  not  of  these  parts,  but  of  Morattiggon,*  and  one  of 
the  sagamores  or  lords  thereof ;  and  had  been  eight 
months  in  these  parts,  it  lying  hence  a  day's  sail  with 
a  great  wind,  and  five  days  by  land.  He  discoursed 
of  the  whole  country,  and  of  every  province,  and  o 
then*  sagamores,  and  their  number  of  men  and  strength. 
The  wind  beginning  to  rise  a  little,  we  cast  a  horse- 
man's coat  about  him  ;  for  he  was  stark  naked,  only  a 

*  Probably  Monniggon,  in  the  State  of  Maine. 
6* 


66 


leather  about  his  waist,  with  a  fringe  about  a  span  long 
or  little  more.  He  had  a  bow  and  two  arrows ;  the  one 
headed,  and  the  other  unheaded.  He  was  a  tall,  straight 
man,  the  hair  of  his  head  black,  long  behind,  only  short 
before,  none  on  his  face  at  all.  He  asked  some  beer, 
but  we  gave  him  strong  water,  and  biscuit,  and  butter, 
and  cheese,  and  pudding,  and  a  piece  of  mallard  ;  all 
which  he  liked  well,  and  had  been  acquainted  with 
such  amongst  the  English.  He  told  us  the  place  where 
we  now  lived  is  called  Patuxet,  and  that  about  four 
years  ago  all  the  inhabitants  died  of  an  extraordinary 
plague,  and  there  is  neither  man,  woman,  nor  child  re- 
maining, as  indeed  we  have  found  none  ;  so  as  there 
is  none  to  hinder  our  possession,  or  to  lay  claim  unto 
it.  All  the  afternoon  we  spent  in  communication  with 
him.  We  would  gladly  have  been  rid  of  him  at  night, 
but  he  was  not  willing  to  go  this  night.  Then  we 
thought  to  carry  him  on  shipboard,  wherewith  he  was 
well  content,  and  went  into  the  shallop  ;  but  the  wind 
was  high  and  the  water  scant,  that  it  could  not  return 
back.  We  lodged  him  that  night  at  Stephen  Hop- 
kins's* house,  and  watched  him. 

The  uncertainty  of  the  Indians  as  to  the  numbers 
and  strength  of  the  Pilgiims,  and  the  dread  inspired  by 
the  use  of  fire  arms,  probably  induced  them  to  preserve 
a  cautious  reserve  for  more  than  three  months.  Dming 
this  time  the  Pilgrims  were  struggling  through  every 
variety  of  difficulty  and  suffering,  to  provide  a  shelter 
for  themselves  and  their  families,  and  might  have  be- 

*  Probably  the  house,  corner  of  Main  and  Leyden  Street. 


67 


come  an  easy  prey  to  any  hostile  effort  against  them* 
Before  their  habitations  had  been  sufficiently  secured 
against  the  inclemency  of  winter,  many  from  previous 
exposure  were  seized  with  sickness  and  died.  In  their 
feeble  state,  ignorant  of  the  power,  fearful  of  renewed 
hostility  from  the  Indians,  who  shall  attempt  to  describe 
their  hour  of  agony  ? 

At  this  moment  of  painful  suspense  and  apprehen- 
sion of  thick  coming  dangers,  with  what  indescribable 
emotions  of  joy,  did  the  Pilgrim,  as  he  walked  forth  in 
the  morning  of  that  day,  to  resume  the  labor  of  defen- 
sive preparation,  hear  the  first  sounds  of  friendly  salu- 
tation, when  Samoset  boldly  approaching  the  humble 
dwellings,  called  aloud,  '  Welcome !  welcome  English- 
men I '  It  little  mattered  that  Indian  proficiency  had 
mastered  only  some  broken  fragments  of  the  English 
tongue  ;  the  tones  of  welcome  were  those  of  rap- 
ture, and  needed  no  medium  of  poUshed  phrase  lo 
reach  the  heart.  The  interview  was  full  of  interest, 
and  its  consequences  proved  highly  beneficial. 

Samoset  is  not  mentioned  in  history  after  the  inter- 
view with  Massasoit,  which  occurred  a  few  days  after 
the  occmTences  above  narrated.  It  is  therefore  proba- 
ble, that  he  soon  returned  to  his  native  home  in  the 
eastern  country,  from  whence  it  is  generally  supposed 
he  came,  and  that  no  opportunity  was  afterwards  pre- 
sented to  renew  the  friendly  salutations  with  which  he 
first  met  the  Pilgrims. 


68 


WATSON'S   HILL. 

3£assaso{t, 

Tlie  rising  Hill,  upon  whose  brow 
Was  first  exchanged  the  solemn  vow, 
Where  Massasoit,  the  Indian  Chief, 
So  freely  tendered  kind  relief. 
And  by  whose  early  proffered  aid 
A  lasting  peace  was  firmly  made, 
While  Carver,  Winslow,  Bradford  stand. 
Time  honored  Fathers  of  our  land, 
This  chieftain  too  shall  homage  claim 
Of  praise  far  more  than  princely  fame  ; 
True  hearted,  gentle,  kind  and  brave. 
Unfading  honors  crown  his  grave. 

This  hill*  rises  to  an  elevated  height  on  the  south 
side  of  Town  Brook,  and  was  called  Strawberry  Hill 
by  the  first  planters.  It  was  early  owned  by  George 
Watson,  an  ancient  and  valuable  settler.  Its  Indian 
name  was  Cantauganteest ;  the  signification  of  which 
has  not  been  ascertained,  though  diligent  inquiry  has 
been  made  for  that  purpose.  Since  the  days  of  Eliot, 
Mayo,  Cotton,  and  Treat,  the  language  and  the  race 
of  Indians  seeiTi  to  have  shared  one  common  fate.  It 
might  become  an  interesting  subject  of  speculation  to 
consider  what  eff'ect  would  be  produced  on  the  minds 
of  those  devoted  missionaries,  were  they  permitted  to 
visit  the  earth  and  witness  the  desolation  which  has 
spared  hardly  a  solitary  descendant  of  the  numerous 
converts  they  once  gathered  into  the  fold  of  Christian 
hope. 

*  Indicated  by  the  wind-mill  now  on  its  summit. 


69 


On  the  summit  of  this  hill,  Massasoit  appeared  with 
his  train  of  sixty  men,  where  hostages  were  exchanged 
between  him  and  the  Pilgrims,  as  a  preliminary  step  to 
the  treaty  of  peace,  which  immediately  followed.  And 
the  interview  is  thus  described  by  one  present  at  the 
time  of  its  occurrence  : 

*  Thursday,  the  22d  of  March,  was  a  very  fair,  warm 
day.  About  noon  we  met  again  about  our  public  busi- 
ness. But  we  had  scarce  been  an  hour  together,  but 
Samoset  came  again,  and  Squanto  the  only  native  of 
Patuxet,  where  we  now  inhabit,  who  was  one  of  the 
twenty  captives  that  by  Hunt  were  carried  away,  and 
had  been  in  England,  and  dwelt  in  Cornhill  with  Mas- 
ter John  Slanie,  a  merchant,  and  could  speak  a  little 
English,  with  three  others  ;  and  they  brought  with 
them  some  few.  skins  to  truck,  and  some  red  herrings, 
newly  taken  and  dried,  but  not  salted ;  and  signified 
unto  us  that  their  great  sagamore,  Massasoyt,  was  hard 
by,  with  Quadequina,  his  brother,  and  all  their  men. 
They  could  not  well  express  in  English  what  they 
would ;  but  after  an  hour  the  king  came  to  the  top  of 
a  hill  over  against  us,  and  had  in  his  train  sixty  men, 
that  we  could  well  behold  them,  and  they  us.  "We 
were  not  willing  to  send  our  governor  to  them,  and 
they  were  unwilling  to  come  to  us.  So  Squanto  went 
again  unto  him,  who  brought  word  that  we  should  send 
one  to  parley  with  him,  which  we  did,  which  was  Ed- 
ward Win  sloe,  to  know  his  mind,  and  to  signify  the 
mind  and  will  of  our  governor,  which  was  to  have 
ti'ading  and  peace  with  him.  We  sent  to  the  king  a 
pair   of  knives,  and   a   copper  chain  with  a  jewel  at 


70 


it.  To  Quadequina  we  sent  likewise  a  knife,  and  a 
jewel  to  hang  in  his  ear,  and  withal  a  pot  of  strong 
water,  a  good  quantity  of  biscuit,  and  some  butter  ; 
which  were  all  willingly  accepted. 

'  Our  messenger  made  a  speech  unto  him,  that  King 
James  saluted  him  with  words  of  love  and  peace,  and 
did  accept  of  him  as  his  friend  and  ally  ;  and  that  our 
governor  desired  to  see  him  and  to  truck  with  him,  and 
to  confirm  a  peace  with  him,  as  his  next  neighbor.  He 
liked  well  of  the  speech,  and  heard  it  attentively,  though 
the  interpreters  did  not  well  express  it.  After  he  had 
eaten  and  drunk  himself,  and  given  the  rest  to  his 
company,  he  looked  upon  our  messenger's  sword  "and 
armor,  which  he  had  on,  with  intimation  of  his  desire 
to  buy  it ;  but,  on  the  other  side,  our  messenger  showed 
his  unwillingness  to  part  with  it.  In  the  end,  he  left 
him  ^in  the  custody  of  Quadequina,  his  brother,  and 
came  over  the  brook,  and  some  twenty  men  followed 
him,  leaving  all  their  bows  and  an-ows  behind  them. 
We  kept  [six  or  seven  as  hostages  for  our  messenger. 
Captain  Standish  and  Master  Wilhamson  met  the 
king  at  the  brook,  with  half  a  dozen  musketeers.  They 
saluted  him,  and  he  them  ;  so  one  going  over,  the  one 
on  the  one  side,  and  the  other  on  the  other,  conducted 
him  to  a  house  then  in  building,  where  we  placed  a 
green  rug  and  three  or  four  cushions.  Then  instantly 
came  our  governor,  with  drum  and  trumpet  after  him, 
and  some  few  musketeers.  After  salutations,  our  gov- 
ernor kissing  his  hand,  the  king  kissed  him ;  and  so 
they  sat  down.  The  governor  called  for  some  strong 
water,  and  drunk  to  him ;  and  he  di-unk  a  great  draught 


71 


that  made  him  sweat  all  the  while  after.  He  called 
for  a  little  fresh  meat,  which  the  king  did  eat  willingly, 
and  did  give  his  followers.  Then  they  treated  of  peace, 
which  was : 

'  1.  That  neither  he  nor  any  of  his  should  injm-e  or 
do  hurl  to  any  of  our  people. 

'  2.  And  if  any  of  his  did  hurt  to  any  of  ours,  he 
should  send  the  offender,  that  we  might  punish  him. 

'  3.  That  if  any  of  our  tools  were  taken  away,  when 
our  people  were  at  work,  he  should  cause  them  to  be 
restored ;  and  if  ours  did  any  harm  to  any  of  his,  we 
would  do  the  like  to  them. 

'  4.  If  any  did  unjustly  war  against  him,  we  would 
aid  him ;  if  any  did  war  against  us,  he  should  aid  us. 

'  5.  He  should  send  to  his  neighbour  confederates 
to  certify  them  of  this,  that  they  might  not  wrong  us, 
but  might  be  likewise  comprised  in  the  conditions  of 
peace. 

*  6.  That  when  their  men  came  to  us,  they  should 
leave  their  bows  and  arrows  behind  them,  as  we  should 
do  our  pieces  when  we  came  to  them. 

'  Lastly,  that  doing  thus.  King  James  would  esteem 
of  him  as  his  friend  and  ally. 

'All  which  the  King  seemed  to  like  well,  and  it  was 
applauded  of  his  followers.  All  the  while  he  sat  by 
the  governor  he  trembled  for  fear.  In  his  person  he 
is  a  very  lusty  man,  in  his  best  years,  an  able  body 
grave  of  countenance,  and  spare  of  speech  ;  in  his 
attire  little  or  nothing  differing  from  the  rest  of  his  fol- 
lowers, only  in  a  great  chain  of  white  bone  beads  about 
his  neck  ;  and  at  it,  behind  his  neck,  hangs  a  little  bag 


72 


of  tobacco,  which  he  drank,*  and  gave  us  to  drink.  His 
face  was  painted  with  a  sad  red,  like  murrey,  and  oiled 
both  head  and  face,  that  he  looked  greasily.  All  his  fol- 
lowers'likewise  were  in  their  faces,  in  part  or  in  whole, 
painted,  some  black,  some  red,  some  yellow,  and  some 
white,  some  with  crosses,  and  other  antic  works  ;  some 
had  skins  on  them,  and  some  naked ;  all  strong,  tall 
men  in  appearance. 

'  So  after  all  was  done,  the  governor  conducted  him 
to  the  brook,  and  there  they  embraced  each  other,  and 
he  departed  ;  we  diligently  keeping  our  hostages.' 

This  place  was  probably  a  favorite  resort  of  the 
natives  prior  to  the  landing.  Excavations  have  been 
made  at  various  times,  and  Indian  remains  have  been 
found  there  within  a  few  years.  On  the  west  side 
shells  are  found  in  large  quantities,  evidently  the  rem- 
nant of  many  a  simple  Indian  feast,  for  which  the 
situation  possessed  every  advantage,  having  the  best 
springs  close  at  hand,  of  which  none  were  better  j  udges 
than  the  natives,  till  their  taste  became  perverted  by  the 
immoderate  use  of  the  strong  water,  supplied  them  by 
the  reckless  white  men,  who  have  so  often  unscrupu- 
lously employed  the  article,  both  to  their  own  destruc- 
tion and  the  oppression  of  that  injured  race. 

The  treaty  of  Peace  made  on  the  occasion  above 
stated,  having  been  concluded,  under  the  influence  of 
upright  intentions,  by  both  of  the  parties  concerned  — 
proved  mutually  advantagious,  and  continued,  without 
any  serious  disturbance  on  either  side,  for  more  than 
fifty  years. 

*  Or  the  same  as  smoking  tobacco. 


78 


CAPTAIN'S   HILL. 

We  trace  the  mount  which  gently  soars 
Above  the  sea  and  circling  shores, 
Where  Standish,  first  of  martial  name, 
Who  dauntless  won  heroic  fame, 
Skilful  and  brave  to  guide  the  band, 
Which  firm  achieved  this  chosen  land, 
Was  wont  to  gaze  on  every  side, 
And  scan  the  sail  of  every  tide. 

This  beautiful  mount  is  situated  in  the  southeasterly 
part  of  Duxbmy,  and  was  at  an  early  period  assigned, 
with  land  adjacent,  to  INIyles  Standish,  the  intrepid 
military  leader  of  the  Pilgrims,  Its  summit,  in  a  grad- 
ual ascent,  is  about  400  yards  from  the  w^ater,  and 
about  180  feet  above  the  ocean,  by  which  it  is  washed, 
on  its  west,  south,  and  easterly  sides.  It  affords  an  ex- 
tensive and  delightful  view  of  the  surrounding  country, 
the  harbor,  Bay  of  Cape  Cod,  and  Manomet.  The 
dwelling  house  and  spring  of  Standish  were  on  the 
southerly  part  of  the  mount  and  but  a  short  distance 
from  the  water.  The  house  was  burnt,  as  we  have 
learned  from  good  authority,  while  occupied  by  Alex- 
ander, the  oldest  son  of  Capt.  Standish.  In  a  com- 
munication from  Lewis  Bradford,  Esq.,  the  aged  and 
venerable  Town  Clerk  of  Plympton,  he  observes,  ^  I 
have  found  that  Alexander  Standish  was  Town  Clerk 
and  also  a  deacon  of  the  church  in  Duxbury,  and  that 
he  lived  in  the  house  where  his  father  lived,  which  was 
burnt,  and  the  Town  Records  of  Duxbury  up  to  that 
time  burnt  in  it.'     The  ruins  of  this  house  still  remain, 

7 


74 


and  frequently  attract  antiquarian  curiosity.  Imple- 
ments of  household  use,  and  parcels  of  corn  partially 
scorched  by  fire,  found  in  these  ruins,  have  been  deemed 
as  trophies  amply  rewarding  the  labor  expended  in  pro- 
curing them. 

The  burial  place  of  Standish,  is  not  certainly  ascer- 
tained ;  but  was  probably  in  the  old  burying  ground  in 
Duxbury,  not  far  from  his  house. 

The  will  of  Capt.  Miles  Standish  is  dated  March  7, 
1655,  and  the  following  clause  relates  to  property  iu 
England.  '  I  give  unto  my  son  and  heir  apparent 
Alexander  Standish  all  my  lands  as  heir  apparent  by 
lawful  descent  in  Ormistic  Bousconge  Wrightington 
Maudsley  Newburrow  Cranston  and  in  the  Isle  of 
Man  and  given  to  mee  as  right  heire  by  lawful  descent, 
but  surreptitiously  detained  from  mee  my  great  grand- 
father being  a  second  or  younger  brother  from  the 
house  of  Standish  of  Standish.'  It  appears  that  Miles, 
the  oldest  son  of  Alexander,  inherited  the  homestead 
at  Duxbury,  and  died  there,  leaving  a  will,  dated  Aug. 
31,  1739,  in  which  he  gives  his  homestead,  120  acres, 
to  Miles,  his  son,  his  wife  Experience  to  have  half  the 
income,  and  legacies  to  the  following  named  daugh- 
ters :  Sarah,  wife  of  Abner  Weston,  Patience,  wife  of 
Caleb  Jenney,  Priscilla,  and  Penelope  Standish.  Pe- 
nelope died  in  1740.  Miles  Standish,  above  named, 
lived  in  Duxbury,  and  July  3,  1763,  by  deed,  in  which 
his  wife  Mehitable  joined,  sold  his  remaining  home- 
stead to  Samuel  and  Sylvanus  Drew,  who  about  the 
same  time  sold  it  to  "Wait  Wadsworth.  He  probably 
soon  moved   to  Bridge  water,  and  July  1,  1765,  pur- 


75 


chased  a  farm  (at  Teticut,)  costing  ^253  6s.  St?.,  of 
Elijah  Leach.  He  sold,  his  wife  Mehitable  joining  in 
the  deed,  to  his  son  Miles,  the  same  farm,  April  28, 1779. 
Judge  Mitchell  states  that  he  died  in  1785,  aged  80, 
and  that  his  son  removed  to  Pennsylvania,  and  that  he 
also  had  a  son  Miles,  from  all  which  it  seems  probable 
that  the  son  of  the  last  named  Miles  is  the  rightful 
heir  to  the  Standish  property  in  England,  if  any  such 
there  be. 


PILGRIM   HALL. 

The  corner  stone,  containing  historical  inscriptions, 
was  laid  Sept.  1,  1824,  with  rehgious  ceremonies.  This 
monumental  edifice  is  situated  on  Court  Street ;  it 
is  seventy  by  forty  feet,  constructed  of  unwrought  split 
granite,  in  a  plain  and  substantial  mode  of  architecture, 
contains  a  dining  room  on  the  basement,  and  a  spa- 
cious hall  above.  The  ground  on  which  it  stands  was 
a  part  of  the  extensive  estate  of  Mr.  Thomas  South- 
worth,  in  1668,  and  is  probably  comprised  within  the 
'  four  acres  given  him  by  his  mother.  Mrs.  Alice  Brad- 
ford,' relict  of  Gov.  Bradford.  When  Plymouth  was  first 
planted,  there  was  a  north  and  a  south  common  field, 
for  tillage,  for  several  years,  on  either  side  of  the  town, 
near  the  shore.  This  falls  within  the  '  north  field,'  and 
probably  within  the  stockade  and  palisadoes  of  nearly 
half  a  mile  in  compass.  Just  below  it,  abutting  on 
'  the  shore,  were  the  six  acre  brick  kiln  field,'  of  the  first 
planters.     The   eastern  prospect  from  it  is  interesting, 


76 


bringing  into  view  the  harbor,  the  near  shores  of  Dux- 
bury  and  Marsh  field,  the  highlands  of  Manomet,  the 
ocean,  and  occasionally  in  the  summer,  the  looming 
cliffs  of  Cape  Cod  —  the  first  resting  place  of  the  Pil- 
grims. 

The  Pilgrim  Hall,  which  is  now  fitted  up  in  a  man- 
ner convenient  and  appropriate,  for  the  reception  of 
interesting  memorials  connected  with  the  Pilgrims, 
contains  the  following,  among  other  attractions  to  the 
antiquarian  visitor : 

The  Landing  of  the  Fathers  in  1620,  painted  by  the 
late  Henry  Sargent,  Esq.,  of  Boston,  and  generously 
presented  by  him  to  the  Pilgiim  Society.  It  was  val- 
ued at  $3,000.  The  gilt  frame  was  purchased  by  the 
Pilgrim  Society,  with  funds  raised  by  subscription,  and 
cost  about  $400.     It  is  13  by  16  feet.  • 

The  following  individuals  are  represented  in  the  paint- 
ing, attired  in  the  costume  of  their  time. 

1st.  Governor  Carver  and  his  wife  and  children.  2d. 
Governor  Bradford,  3d.  Governor  Winslow.  4th. 
Wife  of  Governor  Winslow.  5th.  Mr.  William  Brews- 
ter, the  Elder  of  Leyden  Church.  6th.  Captain  Miles 
Standish.  7th.  Mr.  William  White,  and  his  child 
Peregrine.  8th.  Mi*.  Isaac  Allerton  and  his  wife.  9th. 
Mr.  John  Alden.  10th.  Mr.  John  Turner.  11th.  Mr. 
Stephen  Hopkins,  his  wife  and  children.  12th.  Mr. 
Richard  Warren.  13th.  Mr.  Edward  Telley.  14th. 
Mr.  Samuel  Fuller.  15th.  Wife  of  Captain  Standish. 
16th.  Samoset,  an  Indian  Sagamore  or  Lord.  17th. 
Mr.  John  Howland,  son-in-law  of  Governor  Carver. 

Portraits.     1st.  Edward  Winslow,  painted  in  Lon- 


77 


don,  in  1651,  copied  from  the  original,  by  C.  A.  Foster. 
2d.  Josiah  Winslow,  the  first  native  Governor  of  the 
Old  Colony,  painted  in  London,  in  1651 ;  copied  from 
the  original,  by  C.  A.  Foster.  3d.  Gov.  Josiah  Wins- 
low's  wife,  Penelope  Pe.lham ;  copied  from  the  original, 
by  C.  A.  Foster.  4th.  General  John  Winslow  ;  copied 
from  the  original,  by  C.  A.  Foster.  The  portrait  of 
Gov.  Edward  Winslow  is  the  only  one  preserved,  of 
those  who  came  in  the  Mayflower.  The  originals  of 
these  paintings  belong  to  Isaac  Winslow,  Esq.,  of  Bos- 
ton, and  are  now  in  the  rooms  of  the  Mass.  His- 
torical Society.  5th.  A  portrait  of  the  Hon.  Ephraim 
Spooner,  presented  by  Thomas  Davis,  Esq.,  of  Bos- 
ton. 6th.  A  portrait  of  John  Alden,  Esq.,  of  Middle- 
borough,  who  died  in  1821,  aged  102  years.  He  was 
the  great  grandson  of  John  Alden,  who  came  in  the 
Mayflower,  painted  and  presented  by  Cephas  Thomp- 
son, Esq.  7th.  A  portrait  of  Hon.  John  Trumbull,  pre- 
sented by  Col.  John  Trumbull.  This  portrait  was 
painted  in  1781.  The  face  was  executed  by  Mr. 
Stewart,  and  the  other  parts  by  JNIr.  Trumbull  himself 
while  a  student  with  him.  8th.  A  portrait  of  James 
Thacher,  M.D.,  late  Librarian  and  Cabinet  keeper  of 
the  Pilgrim  Society.  It  was  painted  by  INIr.  Frothing- 
ham,  in  January,  1841,  by  order  of  the  Pilgrim  Society, 
pursuant  to  a  vote  expressing  their  sense  of  the  valua- 
ble services  he  had  rendered,  in  promoting  the  objects 
of  said  Society.* 

*  Dr.  Thacher  was  appointed  Librarian  and  Cabinet  keeper  of  the  Pilgrim 
Society,  at  its  first  organization,  and  his  indefatigable  efforts   contributed 
largely  to  the  promotion  of  its  objects.    The  following  extract  from  the 
7* 


78 


A  portrait  of  James  Kendall,  D.D.,  Senior  Pastor  of 
the  first  Church. 

The  bust  of  Hon.  Daniel  Webster,  presented  by 
James  T.  Hayward,  Esq.,  of  Boston.  The  bust  of  Hon. 
John  Adams,  presented  by  Samuel  Nicholson,  Esq. 

The  addition  of  "Weir's  painting  copied  from  the 
original  at  Washington,  representing  the  memorable 
scene  of  the  embarkation  of  the  Pilgrims  at  Delft-haven, 
would  afford  a  valuable  addition  to  the  attractions  of 
Pilgrim  Hall,  which  it  is  hoped  will  be  made,  when  the 
requisite  means  can  be  obtained  for  accomplishing  so 
desirable  an  object. 

Among  the  antiquities  in  the  Cabinet  of  the  Pilgrim 
Society,  are  the  following  : 

A  chair  which  belonged  to  Gov.  Carver.  The  sword 
of  Miles  Standish,  presented  by  William  S.  Williams, 
Esq.  A  pewter  dish  which  belonged  to  Miles  Stand- 
ish, presented  by  the  late  Joseph  Head,  Esq.  An  iron 
pot  which  belonged  to  Miles  Standish,  presented  by 
the  late  John  Watson,  Esq.  A  brass  steelyard,  owned 
by  Thomas  South  worth.  A  cane  which  belonged  to 
William  White,  presented  by  Hon.  John  Reed.  A 
dressing  case  which  belonged  to  Wm.  White.  The 
gun-barrel  with  which  King  Philip  was  killed,  pre- 
sented by  Mr.  John  Cook,  of  Kingston.     The  original 

report  of  a  Committee  of  the  Society,  indicates  the  sense  entertained  of  his 
services :  '  The  undersigned,  to  whom  was  referred  the  report  of  Dr.  Jaraes 
Thatcher,  respecting  the  Iron  Bailing  around  the  Forefather's  Rock,  report, 
that  the  Society  are  indebted  to  Dr.  Thatcher  for  this  beautiful  and  costly 
monument,  which  while  it  secures  the  Pilgrim  Rock  from  further  depreda- 
tion, records  for  the  benefit  of  posterity,  the  names  of  our  fathers,  and  affords 
a  pleasing  subject  of  contemplation  to  many  strangei's  who  visit  us.'  —  Dr. 
Thacher  died  May  23, 1844,  aged  90. 


79 


letter  of  king  Philip  to  Gov.  Prince,  ^^Titten  in  1662. 
A  china  mug  and  leather  pocket-book  which  belonged 
to  Thomas  Clark.  A  piece  of  ingenious  embroidery, 
in  a  frame,  executed  by  Lorea  Standish,  a  daughter  of 
Miles  Standish,  presented  by  Rev.  Lucius  Alden,  of 
East  Bridgewater, 

An  ancient  deed,  having  the  signature  of  Peregrine 
White,  the  first  Englishman  born  in  New  England, 
and  acknowledged  before  Gov.  Josiah  Winslow,  June 
9,  1673,  presented  by  Mr.  Sherman,  of  Marshfield. 

An  ancient  bond,  dated  the  last  day  of  June,  1688, 
having  the  signature  of  Peregrine  White,  presented  by 
Mr.  Wm.  S.  Russell,  of  Plymouth. 

An  ancient  deed  written  and  acknowledged  before 
Myles  Standish,  August  28,  1655,  presented  by  Joseph 
F.  Wadsworth,  Esq.,  of  Duxbury. 

An  ancient  instrument,  the  receipt  of  heirs  of  Gov. 
Thomas  Prince,  containing  the  signatures  of  Gov.  Josiah 
Winslow,  and  Resolved  White-,  the  brother  of  Pere- 
grine White.  Also  the  signatures  of  Wm.  Crow,  John 
Freeman,  Jona.  Sparrow,  John  Trasie,  Jeremiah  Howe, 
Arthur  Rowland,  Isaac  Barcar,  Mark  Snow,  dated 
July  4,  1674,  presented  by  Amos  Otis,  Esq.,  of  Yar- 
mouth. 

An  ancient  deed,  written  by  John  Alden,  with  his 
signature  as  magistrate,  July  2,  1653,  presented  by 
Isaac  Fobes,  Esq.,  of  Bridgewater. 

A  commission  from  Oliver  Cromwell,  to  Gov.  Ed- 
ward Winslow,  dated  April,  1654,  presented  by  Pelham 
Winslow,  Esq.,  of  Boston. 

A  bust  of  Henry  Sargent,  Esq.,  presented  by  his 
sons. 


80 


A  chair  which  belonged  to  Elder  William  Brewster, 
presented  by  Mr. Brewster,  of  Duxbury. 

An  ancient  couch,  which  belonged  to  Gov.  John 
Hancock,  presented  by  Capt.  Josiah  Sturgess. 

A  pewter  dish,  which  belonged  to  Mr.  John  Atwood, 
bearing  date  1642,  presented  by  the  late  Rosseter  Cot- 
ton, Esq.,  of  Plymouth. 

A  portrait  of  jNIajor  General  Benjamin  Lincoln. 

An  antique  clock,  which  belonged  to  Gov.  John 
Hancock,  which  was  taken  to  West  Bridgewater  from 
Boston,  at  the  time  of  the  siege,  presented  by  Mrs. 
IMary  Waterman. 

A  cane,  made  from  the  pear  tree,  set  out  by  Gov. 
Thomas  Prence,  at  Eastham,  Cape  Cod,  about  the  year 
1644,  presented  by  Amos  Otis,  Esq.,  of  Yarmouth. 

Besides  the  above,  many  valuable  relics  of  the  Pil- 
grims are  scattered  abroad  in  various  quarters,  and 
among  others  the  large  arm-chair  which  came  over 
in  the  Mayflower,  with  staples  attached  to  it,  by  which 
the  same  was  fastened  to  the  floor  or  deck,  owned  by 
Madam  Warren,  of  Plymouth. 

A  bead  purse,  wrought  by  Mrs.  Penelope  Pelham 
Winslow,  wife  of  Gov.  Josiah  Win  slow,  while  on  her 
voyage  to  America;  and  a  gold  ring,  worn  by  the 
Governor,  and  containing  his  hair,  owned  by  Mrs.  Anna 
Hayward,  widow  of  the  late  Nathan  Hayward,  M.D. 
Both  of  the  ladies  above  named  were  daughters  of 
Pelham,  the  son  of  Gen.  John  Winslow. 

The  silver  canteen,  and  several  pewter  platters  — 
marked  E.  W.,  which  belonged  to  Gov.  Edward  Wins- 
low, and  several  other  articles,  owned  by  the  Misses 


81 


Jane  and  Elizabeth  F.  Sever,  of  Kingston.  The  Fuller 
cradle,  owned  by  Jacob  Noyes,  Esq.,  of  Abington. 

A  gun,  measuring  7  feet,  four  and  a  half  inches,  in- 
cluding the  stock,  the  length  of  the  barrel  6  feet  li 
inches,  the  calibre  will  carry  12  balls  to  the  pound,  the 
face  of  the  lock  10  inches  long,  the  whole  weight  of 
the  gun,  20  lbs.  12  ounces  ;  a  sword  3  feet,  5i  inches 
long,  .which  belonged  to  John  Thompson  of  INIiddle- 
borough,  one  of  the  early  comers,  who  died  in  1696, 
aged  80  years ;  now  owned  by  Capt.  Zadock  Thomp- 
son, of  Halifax. 

A  brass  pistol,  which  belonged  to  the  same  individ- 
ual, and  a  halberd,  having  the  date,  1623,  cut  on  its 
face,  are  owned  by  the  descendants  of  the  late  Adam 
Thompson,  deceased. 

An  arm  chair,  which  belonged  to  Gov.  William 
Bradford,  used  at  the  first  celebration  of  the  Old  Colony 
Club  in  1769,  formerly  owned  by  Dr.  Lazerus  Le  Baron, 
and  now  by  Nathaniel  Russell,  Esq.,  of  Plymouth. 

Several  valuable  articles  are  deposited  in  the  rooms 
of  the  Massachusetts  Historical  Society  in  Boston,  viz. 
the  swords  of  Gov.  Carver,  and  Col.  Benjamin  Church ; 
the  gunlock  attached  to  the  gun  with  which  King 
Philip  was  killed ;  a  Bible  which  belonged  to  Isaac 
Allerton,  and  some  other  antiquities  connected  with 
Old  Colony  men  and  times. 

One  important  object  with  the  founders  of  the  Pil- 
grim Society  was,  to  collect  a  Library  illustrative  of 
our  early  history,  which  it  is  hoped,  w^ill  be  kept  in 
mind  to  the  better  promotion  of  so  desirable  an  end. 

There  is  also  a  library,  consisting  of  miscellaneous 


82 


works,  presented  by  various  individuals,  since  the  for- 
mation of  the  Pilgrim  Society,  in  1820.  The  Iron 
Railing  in  front  of  Pilgrim  Hall,  enclosing  a  part  of 
Forefathers'  Rock,  was  designed  by  the  late  George 
Brimmer,  Esq.,  of  Boston.  The  names  inscribed  upon 
it  —  41  in  number — are  those  who  signed  the  com- 
pact on  board  the  Mayflower,  in  Cape  Cod  harbor, 
Nov.  11,  1620.  This  raihng  cost  $410,  and  the  funds 
were  obtained  by  subscription. 

The  records  of  the  late  Librarian  and  Cabinet 
Keeper  abound  with  evidences  of  great  efforts  on  the 
part  of  the  Plymouth  ladies,  at  various  times,  in  pro- 
curing means  to  aid  the  Society  in  promoting  its  ob- 
jects. Besides  the  subscriptions  obtained  in  Plymouth, 
Boston,  and  other  places,  by  means  of  which  the  Hall 
was  originally  built,  donations  have  been  received  from 
the  heirs  of  the  late  Samuel  Davis,  Esq.,  of  the  lot  on 
which  the  Hall  stands  ;  from  the  late  Dr.  Nathaniel 
Lothrop,  the  sum  of  $500,  and  the  late  Miss  Rebecca 
Frazier,  of  Duxbury,  $500,  which  last  bequest  was 
specially  to  be  applied  for  the  purpose  of  procuring 
appropriate  paintings. 

The  Emharhation  of  the  Ptlgrims  at  Delft-haven,  July 
22,  1620,  a7id  a  Descrij)tion  of  Weii^^s  Painting. 

0  't  was  no  earth-born  passion 

That  bade  the  adventurers  stray  ; 
The  earth  with  all  its  fashion 

With  them  had  passed  away.  Flint. 

The  embarkation  from  Delft-haven,  designates  a 
point  of  exciting  interest  in  the  history  of  the  Pilgrims  ; 
and  whether  we  regard  it  as  a  striking  development  o 


83 


the  purest  affections,  and  higher  principles  of  our  na- 
ture, or  with  reference  to  its  general  results  on  human 
affairs,  possesses  the  strongest  claims  to  attention,  from 
the  orator,  poet  and  painter. 

Holland,  at  this  point  of  tim.e,  engi'ossed  a  large  share 
of  the  tonnage  owned  by  all  Europe,  and  the  prepara- 
tions, for  even  a  remote  voyage,  of  a  vessel  sixty  tons 
burthen  only,  were  not  of  unfrequent  occurrence. 
Truth  requires  us  not  to  confound  the  individuals  con- 
cerned in  this  event  among  the  ordinary  adventurers  of 
that  time  —  but  as  influenced  by  motives  of  the  high- 
est order,  as  the  honored  instruments  of  opening  a  new 
theatre  of  human  action  —  where  freedom,  exhausted 
in  her  conflicts  with  the  corruption  of  accumulated 
ages,  might  break  from  the  old  world,  and  breathe  the 
invigorating  atmosphere  of  the  new. 

The  parting  scene  at  Leyden  is  thus  described  in 
Gov.  Bradford's  history,  from  which  extracts  have  pre- 
viously been  made.  '  So  being  ready  to  depart,  they 
had  a  day  of  solemn  humiliation,  their  pastor  taking 
his  text  from  Ezra  the  8th,  21,  upon  which  he  spent  a 
part  of  the  day  very  profitably,  and  very  suitably  to 
their  present  occasion.  The  rest  of  the  time  was  spent 
in  pouring  out  prayers  to  the  Lord,  with  great  fervency, 
mixed  with  abundance  of  tears.  And  the  time  being 
come  when  they  must  depart,  they  were  accompanied 
with  most  of  their  brethren  out  of  the  city,  unto  a  town 
sundry  miles  off  called  Delft-haven,  where  the  ship  lay 
ready  to  receive  them.  So  they  left  that  good  and 
pleasant  city,  which  had  been  their  resting  place  near 
twelve  years.   But  they  knew  they  were  PILGRIMS, 


m 


and  looked  not  much  on  those  things,  but  lifted  up 
then'  eyes  to  heaven,  their  dearest  country,  and  so 
quieted  their  spirits.*  When  they  came  to  the  place, 
they  found  the  ship  and  all  things  ready,  and  such  of 
their .  friends  as  could  not  come  with  them,  followed 
after  them,  and  sundry  also  came  from  Amsterdam,! 
to  see  them  shipped,  and  to  take  their  leave  of  them. 
That  night  was  spent  with  little  sleep  by  the  most, 
but  with  friendly  entertainment  and  christian  discourse 
and  other  real  expressions  of  true  christian  love.  The 
next  day,  (July  22d,)  the  wind  being  fair,  they  went  on 
board  and  their  friends  with  them  ;  when  truly  doleful 
was  the  sight  of  that  sad  and  mournful  parting  ;  to  see 
what  sighs,  and  sobs,  and  prayers  did  sound  amongst 
them ;  what  tears  did  gush  from  every  eye,  and  pithy 
speeches  pierced  each  other's  heart ;  that  sundry  of  the 
Dutch  strangers,  that  stood  on  the  quay  as  spectators, 
could  not  refrain  from  tears.  Yet  comfortable  and 
sweet  it  was  to  see  such  lively  and  true  expressions  of 
dear  and  unfeigned  love.  But  the  tide,  which  stays  for 
no  man,  calling  them  away  that  were  thus  loth  to  de- 
part, their  reverend  pastor,  falling  down  upon  his  knees, 
and  they  all  with  him,  with  watery  cheeks  commended 
them,  with  most  fervent  prayers  to  the   Lord,  and  his 

*  I  think  I  may  with  singular  propriety  call  their  lives  a  pilgrimage. 
Most  of  them  left  England  about  the  year  1609,  after  the  truce  with  the 
Spaniards,  young  men  between  twenty  and  thirty  years  of  age.  They  spent 
near  twelve  years  among  the  Dutch,  first  at  Amsterdam,  afterwards  at  Ley- 
den.  After  having  arrived  to  the  meridian  of  life,  the  declining  part  was 
to  be  spent  in  another  woi'ld,  among  savages,  of  whom  every  European  must 
have  received  a  most  unfavorable,  if  not  formidable  idea. — Hutchinson,  His- 
tory Mass.  2,  452. 

t  About  50  miles  from  Delft-haven. 


85 


blessing;  and  then  with  mutual  ennbraces  and  many 
tears,  they  took  their  leaves  of  one  another,  which 
proved  their  last  leave  to  many  of  them.  Thus  hoist- 
ing, with  a  prosperous  wind,  we  came  in  a  short  time 
to  Southampton,  where  they  found  the  bigger  ship 
come  from  London,  lying  ready  with  all  the  rest  of  their 
company.' 

^  The  embarkation  at  Delft-haven,  that  scene  of  in- 
terest unparalleled,  on  which  a  pencil  of  your  own  has 
just  enabled  us  to  look  back  with  tears  and  praise,  and 
sympathy,  and  the  fond  pride  of  children  ;  that  scene 
of  few  and  simple  incidents  ;  just  the  setting  out  of  a 
handful  of,  not  then,  very  famous  persons,  on  a  voyage, 
but  which,  as  we  gaze  on  it,  begins  to  speak  to  you,  as 
with  the  voices  and  melodies  of  an  immortal  hymn, 
which  dilates  and  becomes  idolized  into  the  auspicious 
going  forth  of  a  colony,  whose  planting  has  changed 
the  history  of  the  world  ;  —  a  noble  colony  of  devoted 
Christians,  —  educated,  firm  men,  valiant  soldiers,  and 
honorable  women  ;  a  colony,  on  the  commencement  of 
whose  heroic  enterprise,  the  selectest  influences  of  re- 
ligion seemed  to  be  descending  visibly  ;  and  beyond 
whose  perilous  path  are  hung,  the  rainbow  and  the 
western  star  of  empire.'* 

An  obliging  correspondent, —  Mr.  W.  A.  Gay,  of 
Hingham,  —  has  furnished  the  following  description  of 
Weir's  painting  of  the  embarkation. 

The  scene  is  laid  on  the  deck  of  the  vessel.  Mr, 
Robinson,  their  pastor,  is  making  the  parting  prayer 
just  before  her  departure. 

*  Hon.  Eufus  Choate's  Oration  at  New  York,  Dec.  22d,  1843. 
8 


86 


Elder  Brewster  holds  the  open  Bible  ;  Gov.  Carver, 
Mr.  Bradford,  with  their  wives,  form  the  centre  group 
of  the  picture. 

On  the  right,  Miles  Standish,  the  soldier,  with  his 
wife  Rose,  who  found  an  early  grave  in  the  new 
country. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  White,  the  parents  of  Peregrine,  the 
first  child  born  in  the  Colony,  on  the  left. 

Beyond  the  centre  group,  Mr.  Fuller  is  seen  parting 
with  his  wife,  who  remains  behind. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Winslow,  a  newly  married  couple, 
were  travelling  on  the  continent  at  the  time  Mr.  Rob- 
inson was  preaching  in  Holland ;  were  so  much  pleased 
with  him,  they  joined  the  company  and  came  out  with 
them. 

A  boy  leaning  over  the  side  of  the  vessel,  belong- 
ing to  Mr.  Winslow's  family,  wears  a  silver  canteen, 
which  bears  the  initials  E.  W.,  now  in  existence. 

Captain  Reynolds  in  the  back  ground,  orders  a  sailor 
on  board  with  the  cradle  in  which  Peregrine  was  rock- 
ed. His  face  expressive  of  double  meaning,  as  it  is 
said  he  had  been  bribed  not  to  bring  the  company  out. 

The  screw  which  probably  saved  the  vessel,  lies  in  the 
foreground,  with  a  group  of  armour,  match  locks,  &c. 

Various  figures,  members  of  the  different  families, 
fill  up  the  picture.     Mr.  Robinson  remained  behind. 

Spectators  on  the  wharf  could  not  refrain  from  tears 
at  the  '  sad  and  rnournful  parting.' 

The  picture  is  true  to  the  minutest  particular,  in 
costume,  and  in  color,  to  the  '  sad  colors  '  of  the  time, 
and  taste  of  the  Pilgrims ;   with  some  exception  for 


87 


Mrs.  Winslow,  who  being  a  bride,  and  of  the  wealthier 
class,  was  dressed  accordingly. 

The  whole  picture  is  true  to  nature  and  the  charac- 
ter of  the  scene. 

It  was  on  board  the  Speedwell,  and  that  small  ves- 
sel held  the  germ  of  a  republic. 

This  painting  is  now  in  one  of  the  panels  in  the 
Rotunda  of  the  Capitol  at  Washington. 


PILGRIM   SOCIETY. 

The  Pilgrim  Society  was  formed  in  1820,  by  the 
citizens  of  Plymouth  and  others  in  New  England,  to 
commemorate  the  landing,  and  to  honor  the  memory  of 
those  intrepid  men  who  first  stepped  on  Plym.outh  Rock. 
The  Constitution  was  adopted  May  29th,  1820,  and 
the  following  extract  from  the  concluding  part  of  its 
preamble,  shows  the  purpose  of  its  organization : 
*  That  these  historical  events  should  be  perpetuated 
by  durable  monuments  to  be  erected  at  Plymouth,  is 
a  desirable  object,  in  which  public  feeling  very  laudably 
concurs,  and  which  has  led  to  the  institution  and  in- 
corporation of  the  Pilgrim  Society;  We,  therefore, 
many  of  us  the  lineal  descendants,  and  all  of  us  hold- 
ing their  memory  in  respect  and  honor,  approve,  adopt 
and  subscribe  to  the  rules  and  regulations  of  the  Pil- 
grim Society,  as  members  of  the  same.' 

The  condition  of  membership  was  formerly  the  pay- 
ment of  ten  dollars  —  now  reduced  to  the  sum  of  five 
dollars.     An  appropriate   diploma  has  been   prepared 


88 


for  distribution  to  those  who  join  the  Society.  The 
first  Presidents  of  the  Society,  were  Hon.  Joshua 
Thomas,  John  Watson,  Alden  Bradford,  and  Nathaniel 
M.  Davis,  Esqs.* 

The  officers  for  1851,  are  Charles  H.  Warren,  of 
Boston,  President ;  William  Davis,  Vice  President 
Wm.  S.  Russell,  Recording  Secretary;  Benjamin  M. 
Watson,  Corresponding  Secretary ;  Allen  Danforth, 
Treasurer  ;  Lemuel  D.  Holmes,  Librarian  and  Cabinet 
Keeper.  John  B.  Thomas,  Isaac  L.  Hedge,  Thomas 
Russell,  Schuyler  Sampson,  Winslow  Warren,  Abra- 
ham Jackson,  Timothy  Gordon,  Andrew  L.  Russell, 
of  Plymouth,  and  James  T.  Hayward  and  William 
Thomas,  of  Boston,  Trustees. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  those  who  have  delivered 
public  addresses  in  commemoration  of  the  landing  of 
the  fathers,  in  1620.  The  asterisk  prefixed  to  some  of 
the  names,  designates  those  whose  discourses  have  not 
been  published. 

1769,  First  celebration  by  Old  Colony  Club. 

1770,  Second  celebration  by  Old  Colony  Club. 

1771,  Third  celebration  by  Old  Colony  Club. 

1772,  Rev.   Chandler    Robbins  — For    Old   Colony 

Club. 

1773,  Rev.  Charles  Turner  — For  Old  Colony  Club. 

By  the  town  and  by  the  First  Parish. 

1774,  Rev.  Gad  Hitchcock,  Pembroke. 

1775,  Rev.  Samuel  Baldwin,  Hanover. 

1776,  Rev.  Sylvanus  Conant,  Middleborough. 

*  Only  one  Officer  of  the  Society,  appointed  at  its  first  organization  in 
1820,  now  survives,  viz.  the  Hon,  William  Stiirgis,  of  Boston,  who  was  a 
Trustee. 


1777,  Rev.  Samuel  West,  Dartmouth. 

1778,  Rev.  Timothy  Hilliard,  Barnstable.* 

1779,  Rev.  William  Shaw,  Marshfield.* 

1780,  Rev.  Jonathan  Moor,  Rochester.* 

From  this  time  the  public  observances  of  the  day- 
were  suspended,  till 

1794,  Rev.  Chandler  Robbins,  D.D,,  of  Plymouth. 

1795,  1 

1796,  [  Private  Celebration. 

1797,  j 

1798,  Dr.  Zaccheus  Bartlett,  Plymouth,  Oration.* 

1799,  The  day  came  so  near  that  appointed  for  the 
ordination  of  Rev.  Mr.  Kendall,  that  it  was  not  cele- 
brated by  a  public  discourse, 

1800,  John  Davis,  Esq.,  Boston,  Oration.* 

1801,  Rev.  John  Allyn,  D.D.,  Duxbury. 

1802,  John  Quincy  Adams,  Esq.,  Quincy,  Oration. 

1803,  Rev.  John  T.  Kirkland,  D.D.,  Boston.* 

1804,  (Lord's  Day)  Rev.James  Kendall,  Plymouth.* 

1805,  Alden  Bradford,  Esq.,  Boston. 

1806,  Rev.  Abiel  Holmes,  D.D.,  Cambridge. 

1807,  Rev.  James  Freeman,  D.D.,  Boston.* 

1808,  Rev.  Thaddeus  M.  Harris,  Dorchester. 

1809,  Rev.  Abiel  Abbot,  Beverly. 
1811,  Rev.  John  Elliot,  D.D.,  Boston. 
1815,  Rev.  James  Flint,  Bridgewater. 

1817,  Rev.  Horace  Holley,  Boston.* 

1818,  Wendell  Davis,  Esq.,  Sandwich.* 

1819,  Francis  C.  Gray,  Esq.,  Boston. 

1820,  Daniel  Webster,  Esq.,  Boston,  by  Pilgiim  So- 

ciety. 

8* 


90 


1824,  Professor  Edward  Everett,  Cambridge,  by  Pil- 
grim Society. 

1831,  Kev.  John  Brazer,  Salem,  by  First  Parish  in 
Plymouth.* 

The  following  anniversaries  were  commemorated  by 
the  Third  Parish  in  Plymouth. 

1826,  Rev.  Richard  S.  StoiTs,  Braintree. 

1827,  Rev.  Lyman  Beecher,  D.D.,  Boston. 

1828,  Rev.  Samuel  Green,  Boston. 

1829,  Rev.  Daniel  Huntington,  Bridgewater. 

1830,  Rev.  Benjamin  Wisner,  D.D.,  Boston. 

1831,  Rev.  John  Codman,  D.D.,  Dorchester. 

1832,  Rev.  Convers  Francis,  of  Watertown,  for  the 

First  Parish. 
Rev.  Mr.  Bigelow,  of  Rochester,  for  the  Third 
Parish. 

1833,  Rev.    Mr.  Barrett,  of  Boston,  for   the   First 

Parish. 

1834,  Rev.   G.  W.  Blagden,  of  Boston,  for  the  Pil- 

grim Society. 

1835,  Hon.  Peleg  Sprague,  by  Pilgrim  Society. 

1837,  Rev.  Robert  B.  Hall,  by  Pilgrim  Society.* 

1838,  Rev.  Thomas  Robbins,  by  Pilgrim  Society.* 
1841.  Joseph  R.  Chandler,  Esq.,  of  Philadelphia,  by 

Pilgrim  Society.* 

1845,  a  public  celebration,  religious  services  in  the 
First  church,  a  public  dinner  and  addresses. 

1846,  Rev.   Mark  Hopkins,  D.D.,  President  of  Wil- 

liams College. 
1848.  Rev.  Samuel  M.  Worcester,  D.D.,  of  Salem, 
for  the  Robinson  Society. 


91 


The  following  resolution  was  unanimously  adopted 
at  a  meeting  of  the  Society  in  May,  1850  :  '  Resolved, 
that  it  is  expedient  to  erect  a  monument  on  or  near 
the  Rock  on  which  the  Pilgrims  landed,  and  to  make 
other  improvements  in  the  vicinity,  and  that  the  Trus- 
tees have  full  power  to  take  such  measures  as  they 
may  deem  expedient,  to  carry  these  objects  into  effect.' 
Judging  from  the  opinions  expressed  by  intelligent  vis- 
itors from  almost  every  part  of  the  Union,  the  objects 
proposed  in  the  foregoing  resolution  may  be  fully 
accomplished,  whenever  the  requisite  measures  are 
adopted,  and  a  suitable  appeal  is  made  to  the  public, 
for  its  countenance  and  aid  in  so  desirable  a  work. 

On  the  27th  day  of  May,  1850,  a  Committee,  con- 
sisting of  James  Savage,  Charles  H.  Warren,  Nathaniel 
B.  Shurtleff,  Boston,  Abraham  Jackson,  and  Timothy 
Gordon  of  Plymouth,  presented  a  Report,  recommend- 
ing the  following :  '  That  the  celebration  in  future  of 
the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims  at  Plymouth,  be  held  on 
the  tiventy-jirst  day  of  December ;  but  when  that  day 
falls  on  Sunday,  then  to  be  held  on  the  twenty-second.' 
This  report  was  unanimously  accepted,  and  the  follow- 
ing vote  was  passed  :  '  That  this  Society  will  hereafter 
regard  the  tvjenty-jirst  day  of  December,  as  the  true 
anniversary  of  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims.' 

Truth  is  desirable  at  all  times,  and  on  all  subjects, 
and  we  trust  the  true  day  will  at  no  distant  period  be 
adopted  as  that  of  celebration,  though  present  feelings 
and  associations  may  cling  to  the  twenty-second  in 
preference. 


THE  OLD  COLONY  CLUB. 

As  our  public  anniversary  celebrations  originated 
with  this  association,  some  account  of  its  origin  will 
doubtless  be  interesting  to  the  reader.  It  was  formed 
in  1769,  as  will  be  seen  from  the  following  extracts 
copied  from  the  records  which  are  now  in  existence. 

January  16f/z,  1769. —  '  "We  whose  names  are  under- 
written, having  maturely  weighed  and  seriously  con- 
sidered the  many  disadvantages  and  inconveniences 
that  arise  from  intermixing  with  the  company  at  the 
taverns  in  this  town,  and  apprehending  that  a  well 
regulated  club  will  have  a  tendency  to  prevent  the 
same,  and  to  increase,  not  only  the  pleasure  and  hap- 
piness of  the  respective  members,  but,  also,  will  con- 
duce to  their  edification  and  inslruction,  do  hereby 
incorporate  ourselves  into  a  society,  by  the  name  of 
the  Old  Colony  Club.  For  the  better  regulation  of 
which  we  do  consent  and  agi'ee  to  observe  all  such 
rules  and  laws,  as  shall  from  time  to  time  be  made  by 
the  clab.  Dated  at  our  Hall,  in  Plymouth,  the  day 
and  year  above  written. 

Isaac  Lothrop,  John  Thomas, 

Pelham  "Winslow,  Edward  Winslow,  Jr. 

Thomas  Lothrop,  John  Watson, 

Elkanah   Cushman. 

Becemler  ISfJi. —  At  a  meeting  of  the  Club,  voted, 
that  Friday  next  be  kept  by  this  Club  in  commemora- 
tion of  the  landing  of  our  worthy  ancestors  in  this 


93 


place  ;  that  the  Club  dine  together  at  Mr.  Howland's, 
and  that  a  number  of  gentlemen  be  invited  to  spend 
the  evening  with  us  at  the  Old  Colony  Hall. 

Old  Colony  Day.  First  Celebration  of  the  Landing 
of  our  Forefathers.  —  Friday,  December  22.  The  Old 
Colony  Club,  agi*eeably  to  a  vote  passed  the  18th  in- 
stant, met,  in  commemoration  of  the  landing  of  their 
worthy  ancestors  in  this  place.  On  the  morning  of 
the  said  day,  after  discharging  a  cannon,  was  hoisted 
upon  the  hall  an  elegant  silk  flag,  with  the  following 
inscription,  ''Old  Colony^  1620.  At  eleven  o'clock, 
A.  M.,  the  members  of  the  club  appeared  at  the  hall, 
and  from  thence  proceeded  to  the  house  of  Mr.  How- 
land,  inn-holder,  which  is  erected  upon  the  spot  where 
the  first  licensed  house  in  the  Old  Colony  formerly  stood; 
at  half  after  two  a  decent  repast  was  served,  which 
consisted  of  the  following  dishes,  viz. 

1,  a  large  baked  Indian  whortleberry  pudding ;  2,  a 
dish  of  sauquetach,  (succatach,  corn  and  beans  boiled 
together  ;)  3,  a  dish  of  clams  ;  4,  a  dish  of  oysters  and 
a  dish  of  cod-fish ;  5,  a  haunch  of  venison,  roasted  by  the 
first  Jack  brought  to  the  colony ;  6,  a  dish  of  sea  fowl ; 
7,  a  dish  of  frost  fish  and  eels  ;  8,  an  apple  pie  ;  9,  a 
course  of  cranberry  tarts,  and  cheese  made  in  the  Old 
Colony. 

These  articles  were  dressed  in  the  plainest  manner 
(all  appearance  of  luxury  and  extravagance  being 
avoided,  in  imitation  of  our  ancestors,  whose  memory 
we  shall  ever  respect.)  At  4  o'clock,  P.  M.  the  mem- 
bers of  our  club,  headed  by  the  steward,  carrying  a  folio 


94 


volume  of  the  laws  of  the  Old  Colony,  hand  in  hand, 
marched  in  procession  to  the  hall.  Upon  the  appear- 
ance of  the  procession  in  front  of  the  hall,  a  number  of 
descendants  from  the  first  settlers  in  the  Old  Colony, 
drew  up  in  a  regular  file,  and  discharged  a  volley  of 
small  arms,  succeeded  by  three  cheers,  which  were  re- 
turned by  the  Club,  and  the  gentlemen  generously  treat- 
ed. After  this,  appeared  at  the  private  grammar  school 
opposite  the  hall,  a  number  of  young  gentlemen,  pupils 
of  Mr.  Wadsworth,  who,  to  express  their  joy  upon  this 
occasion,  and  their  respect  for  the  memory  of  their  an- 
cestors, in  the  most  agi'eeable  manner  joined  in  singing 
a  song  very  applicable  to  the  day.  At  sunsetting  a 
cannon  was  discharged,  and  the  flag  struck.  In  the 
evening  the  hall  was  illuminated,  and  the  following  gen- 
tlemen, being  previously  invited,  joined  the  club,  viz. 
Col.  George  Watson,  Capt.  Thomas  Davis, 

Col.  James  Warren,  Dr.  Nathaniel  Lothrop, 

James  Hovey,  Esq.,  Mr.  John  Russell, 

Thoms  Mayhew,  Esq.,  Mr.  Edward  Clark, 

William  Watson,  Esq.,         Mr.  Alexander  Scammell, 
Capt.  Gideon  White,  Mr.  Peleg  Wadsworth, 

Capt.  Elkanah  Watson,        Mr.  Thomas  Southworth 

Rowland. 
The  President  being  seated  in  a  large  and  venerable 
chair,*  which  was  formerly  possessed  by  William  Brad- 
ford, the  second  worthy  Governor  of  the  Old  Colony, 
and  presented  to  the  club,  by  our  friend  Dr.  Lazarus 
Le  Baron  of  this  town,  delivered  several  appropriate 

*  This  ancient  chair  is  now  in  the  family  of  Nathaniel  Russell,  Esq. 


95 


toasts.*  After  spending  the  evening  in  an  agreeable 
manner,  in  recapitulating  and  conversing  upon  the 
many  and  various  advantages  of  our  forefathers  in  the 
first  settlement  of  this  country,  and  the  growth  and  in- 
crease of  the  same, —  at  eleven  o'clock  in  the  evening 
a  cannon  was  again  fired,  three  cheers  given,  and  the 
Club  and  company  withdrew.' 

In  1770.  The  anniversary  of  the  landing  was  cele- 
brated much  in  the  same  manner  as  in  the  preceding 
year,  with  the  addition  of  an  address  by  Edward 
Winslow,  Jun.,  Esq.,f  the  first  ever  delivered  on  any 
similar  occasion. 

*  1.  To  the  memory  of  our  brave  and  pious  ancestors,  the  first  settlers  of 
the  Old  Colony. 

2.  To  the  memory  of  John  Carver  and  all  the  other  worthy  Governors  of 
the  Old  Colony. 

3.  To  the  memory  of  that  pious  man  and  faithful  historian,  Mr.  Secretary 
Morton. 

4.  To  the  memory  of  that  brave  man  and  good  officer,  Capt.  Miles 
Standish.  • 

5.  To  the  memory  of  Massasoit,  our  first  and  best  friend,  and  ally  of  the 
Natives. 

6.  To  the  memory  of  Mr.  Robert  Cushman,  who  preached  the  first  sermon 
in  New  England. 

7.  The  union  of  the  Old  Colony  and  Massachusetts. 

8.  May  every  person  be  possessed  of  the  same  noble  sentiments  against 
arbitrary  power  that  our  worthy  ancestors  were  endowed  with. 

9.  May  every  enemy  to  civil  or  religious  liberty  meet  the  same  or  a 
worse  fate  than  Arch-Bishop  Laud. 

10.  May  the  Colonies  be  speedily  delivered  from  all  the  burthens  and  op- 
pressions they  now  labor  under. 

1 1.  A  speedy  and  lasting  union  between  Great  Britain  and  her  Colonies. 

12.  Unanimity,  prosperity,  and  happiness  to  the  Colonies. 

t  A  son  of  the  above,  John  F.  Wentworth  Winslow,  Esq.,  now  reside?  at 
Woodstock,  in  New  Brunswick,  is  Sheriff  of  Carlton  Co.,  and  the  oldest 
male  descendant  of  Gov.  Edward  Winslow,  who  came  iu  the  Mayflower. 


96 


CAPE  COD. 

Cape  Cod  was  discovered  by  Bartholomew  Gosnold, 
on  the  15th  of  May,  1602,  and  was  visited  by  Henry 
Hudson,  in  Aug.  1609,  and  by  Capt.  John  Smith,  in 
1614.  It  was  named  by  Gosnold,  from  the  abundance 
of  codfish  taken  in  its  neighborhood.  Its  harbor  is 
considered  one  of  the  best  on  the  New  England  coast 
for  vessels  of  every  size.  The  infamous  conduct  of  Capt. 
Hunt,  (so  indignantly  condemned  by  Smith,)in  kidnap- 
ping 27  of  the  natives,  in  1614,  had  justly  incensed  the 
tribe  of  Nauset,  to  which  place  five  of  them  belonged. 
To  this  cause  their  hostile  conduct  towards  the  Pilgrims 
may  properly  be  ascribed,  for  it  appears  that  after- 
wards, when  explanations  were  made,  disclaiming  any 
participation  in  the  conduct  of  Hunt,  friendly  relations 
existed,  which  were  rarely  interrupted.  Cape  Cod, 
Nantucket,  and  New  Bedford,  have  been  distinguished 
for  the  nautical  skill  and  enterprise  of  their  citizens,  un- 
surpassed by  any  equal  population  in  the  world,  and 
by  our  wisest  statesmen,  have  been  regarded  as  the 
main  supports  of  our  naval  strength.  On  this  subject, 
Edmund  Burk,  in  1774,  addressing  the  House  of  Com- 
mons on  American  affairs,  pronounced  an  eulogy  de- 
serving of  grateful  remembrance.  '  No  sea,  but  what  is 
vexed  by  their  fisheries.  No  climate,  that  is  not  wit- 
ness of  their  toils.  Neither  the  perseverance  of  Holland, 
nor  the  actfvy  of  France,  nor  the  dexterous  and  firm 
sagacity  of  English  enterprise,  ever  carried  their  most 


97 


perilous  mode  of  hardy  industry  to  the  extent  to  which 
it  has  been  pursued  by  this  recent  people ;  a  people 
who  are  still  in  the  gristle,  and  not  hardened  into  man- 
hood.' 

The  population  of  Cape  Cod  is  35,279 ;  Nantucket, 
8,542 ;  Dukes  County,  4,540 ;  New  Bedford,  16,464. 
Aggregate,  64,735. 

PLYMOUTH  COLONY  RECORDS. 

In  the  year  1818,  three  Commissioners,  viz.,  James 
Freeman,  Samuel  Davis  and  Benjamin  R.  Nichols, 
*  were  appointed  by  the  Legislature  of  the  State,  and 
were  authorized  to  cause  the  records  to  be  transcribed, 
and  afterwards  to  return  the  originals  to  the  Register 
of  Deeds'  Office  in  Plymouth,  and  to  deposit  the  copies 
in  the  Office  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Commonwealth. 
Full  Indexes  were  made  to  them,  and  the  volumes 
were  interleaved  and  new  bound.  The  original  char- 
ter of  the  Colony  being  considerably  defaced,  it  was 
repaired  and  placed  in  a  port  folio,  with  the  seal  of  the 
Plymouth  Company  in  England  annexed  to  it.  The 
seal  is  about  four  inches  in  diameter.  It  was  much 
broken,  but  the  parts  were  carefully  cemented  and 
secured  together,  and  inclosed  in  a  case,  so  that  the 
orignal  impression  may  be  seen. 

The  records  are  now  arranged  chronologically,  and 
in  such  a  manner  that  the  legislative  proceedings  or 
court  orders  form  six  separate  volumes ;  the  wills  and 
inventories  four ;  deeds  six  ;  laws  one  ;  acts  of  Com- 
missioners of  United  Colonies  two.     There  is  also  an 


98 


imperfect  volume  of  the  records  of  these  Commission- 
ers, being,  as  is  supposed,  their  original  minutes. 
There  is  also  one  volume  of  Indian  deeds,  bound  up 
with  the  Treasurer's  accounts,  and  lists  of  freemen, 
and  one  volume  of  actions,  marriages,  births,  and  deaths, 
making  in  the  whole,  twenty-two  volumes  of  original 
records. 

The  copies  made  from  the  above,  (deposited  in  the 
Office  of  the  Secretary  of  State,)  form  eleven  folio 
volumes,  and  are  indexed  like  the  originals.  The 
records  of  the  Commissioners  of  the  United  Colonies 
were  formerly  transcribed  and  published  by  Ebenezer 
Hazard,  Esq.  They  compose  nearly  the  whole  of 
his  second  volume.  This  volume  was  compared  by 
Mr.  Nichols  with  the  original  records,  and  corrected 
by  him ;  and  the  volume  so  corrected  is  deposited, 
with  the  copies  above  mentioned,  in  the  Office  of  the 
Secretary  of  the  Commonwealth.  They  are  kept  in 
a  separate  case  from  the  other  records  of  the  Common- 
wealth. 

All  the  laws  and  legislative  proceedings  are  copied 
with  such  parts  of  the  other  records  as  were  thought 
to  be  useful.  The  parts  not  copied  are  most  of  the 
private  deeds,  wills,  and  inventories.  Care  was  taken 
to  preserve  in  the  copies  the  original  paging  and  ortho- 
graphy. 

The  following  statement  will  give  a  general  view  of 
the  contents  of  the  records  — 

There  is  nothing  recorded  in  1620,  except  a  plan  of 
the  lots  laid  out  at  Plymouth.* 

*  See  page  30. 


99 


The  next  records  are  the  allotments  of  land  in  1623,* 
to  the  passengers  in  the  Mayflower,  Fortune  and  Ann, 
and  a  law  establishing  the  trial  by  jury. 

In  1627  there  was  a  division  of  the  cattle  among  the 
inhabitants. 

There  are  but  few  other  records  previous  to  1632. 

In  that  year  the  General  Court  of  Plymouth  began 
to  keep  a  regular  journal  of  their  proceedings,  which 
they  continued  to  the  close  of  the  colony,  excepting  the 
years  1687  and  1688,  during  the  government  of  Sir 
Edmund  Andros. 

In  1636,  a  code  of  laws  was  made,  with  a  preamble 
containing  an  account  of  the  settlement  of  the  Colony. 
Other  laws  were  added  at  subsequent  periods,  and 
when  any  of  the  former  were  altered  or  repealed,  this 
was  done  by  making  erasures  and  interlineations,  in- 
stead of  passing  original  actvS.  In  the  copy  now  made 
all  these  erasures  and  interlineations  are  noticed.  Li 
1658  the  laws  were  revised  and  entered  in  another 
book.  Most  of  them  were  transcribed  from  the  former 
code,  and  the  dates  when  they  were  first  enacted  in- 
serted in  the  margin.  Other  laws  were  inserted  after- 
ward, till  1664,  when  they  appear  to  have  been  again 
revised.  A  third  book  of  laws  was  then  made,  similar 
to  the  former.  This  book  contains  all  the  laws  passed 
from  that  time  till  1682. 

The  laws  of  the  colony  thus  existed  in  three  sepa- 
rate parts.  They  are  now  bound  together  and  indexed, 
and  a  complete  copy  made  of  them. 

*  One  acre,  near  the  town,  to  each  one  in  every  family. 


100 


There  was  another  code  made  in  1671,  and  printed. 
The  manuscript  of  this  code  no  longer  exists.  But 
one  of  the  printed  copies  may  be  found  in  the  library 
of  the  Historical  Society,  bound  up  with  the  laws  of 
Massachusetts  and  Connecticut.  This  code  is  very 
different  from  the  former.  It  contains  some  new  laws, 
and  omits  most  of  those  which  before  existed. 

From  these  records  a  knowledge  may  be  obtained 
of  all  the  principal  men  who  lived  in  the  Colony,  of 
the  Governors,  Assistants,  Deputies,  or  Representa- 
tives, Selectmen  of  towns,  and  other  civil  officers, 
military  officers  and  freemen.  There  are  lists  of  all  the 
freemen  in  the  Colony  at  several  periods,  also  records  of 
mamages,  births,  and  deaths.  The  latter  records,  how- 
ever, are  imperfect. 

Marriages  were  never  solemnized  by  ministers,  but 
magistrates  were  especially  appointed  for  that  purpose. 

The  following  extracts  from  the  O.  C.  Records,  1st 
vol.  of  Deeds,  being  the  first  acts  of  legislation  on 
Record^  may  interest  the  reader. 

Trial  by  Jury,  It  was  ordained  17  Desemb  Anno 
1623,  by  the  court  then  held  that  all  criminall  facts ; 
and  also  all  matters  of  trespasses  ;  and  debts  betweene 
man  and  man  should  be  tried  by  the  verdict  of  twelve 
honest  men  to  be  empanelled  by  authority  in  forme  of  a 
jm'ie  upon  their  oath. 

JExportatio7i  of  Timber  proJdbited.  It  was  decreed  by 
the  Com-t  held  the  29th  of  March  Anno,  1626,  that  for 
the  preventing  of  such  inconveniences,  as  doe,  and  may 
befall  the  plantation  by  the  want  of  timber,  that  no  man 


101 


of  what  condition  soever  sell  or  transport  any  manner 
of  workes  as  frames  for  houses  plankes  board  shiping 
shalops,  boates,  canoes,  or  whatsoever  may  tende  to  the 
destrucktion  of  timber  aforesaid  how  little  soever  the 
quantitie  be,  without  the  consent  approbation  and  like- 
ing  of  the  Governour  and  Counsell ;  and  if  any  be 
found  faulty  herein  and  shall  imbarke  or  any  way  con- 
vey to  that  end  to  make  sale  of  any  the  goods  afore- 
said expressed  or  intended  by  this  decree  the  same  to 
be  forfited  and  a  fine  of  twise  the  valew  for  all  so 
sould  to  be  duly  taken  by  the  Governour  for  the  use 
and  benefit  of  the  Company. 

Sandicraftsmen  forbidden  to  work  for  strangers.  It 
was  further  decreed  the  day  and  year  above  written  for 
the  preventing  such  abuses  as  doe  &  may  arise  amongst 
us  that  no  handicraftsmen  of  what  profession  so  ever 
as  taylors  shoemakers  carpenters  joyners  smiths  sawiers 
or  whatsoever  w*"^  do  or  may  reside  or  belong  to  this 
plantation  of  Plymouth  shall  use  their  science  or  trades 
at  home  or  abroade  for  any  strangers  or  foreigners  till 
such  time  as  the  necessity  of  the  colony  be  served 
without  the  consent  of  the  Govern o^  and  councill,  the 
breach  thereof  to  be  punished  at  their  discretion. 

JSfo  corn,  beans,  or  peas  to  be  exported.  It  was  ordain- 
ed the  s'^  29  of  March  1626  ;  for  the  preventing  scarsity 
as  alsoe  for  the  furthering  of  our  trade  that  no  corne 
beanes  or  peaes  be  transported,  imbarked  or  sold  to  that 
end  to  be  conveyed  out  of  the  colony  without  the  leave 
and  license  of  the  Governour  and  counsell ;  The  breach 
whereof  to  be  punished  with  lose  of  the  goods  so  taken 

9* 


102 


or  proved  to  be  sold  ;  and  the  seller  further  find  or  pun- 
ished or  both  at  the  discression  of  the  Gov'"  and  coun- 
cill. 

Dwelling  houses  to  he  covered  with  hoard  or  pale.  It 
was  agreed  upon  by  the  whole  court  held  the  sixth  of 
January  1627,  that  from  hence  forward  no  dwelling 
house  was  to  be  covered  with  any  kind  of  thache  as 
straw  reed  &c.  but  with  either  board  or  pale  and  the 
like  to  wit  of  all  that  were  to  be  new  built  in  the 
towne. 

Several  fires  had  occurred  before  this  period,  and 
this  law  was  doubtless  intended  to  prevent  similar  oc- 
currences in  future. 

1627.  Edward  Winslow  hath  sold  unto  Capt  Myles 
Standish  his  six  shares  in  the  red  CovvT  for  and  in  con- 
sideration of  five  pounds  ten  shillings  to  be  pd  in  corne 
at  the  rate  of  six  shillings  p.  bushell  freeing  the  sd 
Edward  from  all  manner  of  charge  belonging  to  the 
said  shares  during  the  terme  of  the  nine  yeares  they 
are  let  out  to  halves  and  taking  the  benefit  thereof. 

The  value  of  the  Red  Cow  in  1627,  is  estimated  at 
about  $160  in  our  currency  —  reference  being  had  to 
the  comparative  value  of  money  —  between  that  time 
and  the  present. 

The  first  importation  of  cattle  was  made  under  the 
direction  of  Edward  Winslow,  in  1623,  and  consisted 
of  one  bull  and  three  heifers.  In  1627,  after  the  Pil- 
grims had  bought  out  the  interest  of  the  merchant  ad- 
venturers of  London,  for  the  sum  of  eighteen  hundred 
pounds  sterling,  to  be  paid  in  annual  installments  of 


108 


200  pounds,  the  cattle  on  hand,  which  had  increased  to 
twelve  in  number,  were  divided  in  the  following  man- 
ner —  Twelve  equal  lots  were  made,  consisting  of 
thirteen  persons  to  each  lot  —  the  names  of  which  are 
all  recorded.  These  lots  were  drawn  for,  by  the  parties 
concerned,  as  was  the  usual  Pilgrim  practice.  The 
whole  number  of  share  holders  being  156,  affording  the 
first  recorded  Cattle  Sliotv  in  New  England. 


The  Dutch  Emhassy^  from  New  Netherlands  to  Plymouth 
Colony^  in  1627. 

The  visit  of  Isaack  De  Raisiers,  in  behalf  of  the 
Dutch  West  India  Company,  established  at  Manhat- 
tan, now  New  York,  to  the  Plymouth  Colony,  in  the 
year  1627,  appears  to  have  proved  not  only  highly 
beneficial  in  its  results  to  the  parties  concerned,  but 
may  justly  be  regarded  as  a  starting  point  in  the  diplo- 
matic relations  of  our  country,  which  have  since  ex- 
tended to  every  part  of  the  civilized  world  :  while  the 
curious  observer  of  human  affairs,  in  tracing  our  com- 
mercial progress  through  the  lapse  of  more  than  two 
centuries,  finds  a  rapidity  and  extent  of  growth  proba- 
bly unexampled  in  the  annals  of  maritime  enterprise. 
The  correspondence  between  the  parties  to  this  early 
negotiation,  is  fortunately  preserved,  and  appears  highly 
creditable  to  both.  The  whole  affair  acquires  additional 
interest,  from  the  fact,  that  De  Rasiers  after  his  visit, 
addressed  a  letter  to  one  of  his  employers,  containing 
a  minute  description  of  Plymouth  and  other  parts  of 


104 


the  Old  Colony,  which  has  recently  been  rescued  from 
oblivion,  while  nearly  all  other  Records  pertaining  to 
the  celebrated  West  India  Company,  are  irretrievably 
lost.  The  following  extracts,*  which  briefly  describe 
the  Dutch  establishment  above  refen*ed  to,  are  here  in- 
troduced for  the  benefit  of  the  reader*  '  The  territory 
bounding  on  the  river  discovered  by  Hudson  in  1609, 
and  explored  by  the  Dutch,  between  that  date  and 
1614,  together  with  the  sea  coasts  between  the  fortieth 
and  forty -fifth  degrees  of  North  latitude,  received,  in  the 
year  last  mentioned,  from  the  charter  of  the  States 
General,  or  the  United  Provinces,  the  name  of  New 
Netherlands,  The  exclusive  right  of  trading  with  this 
extensive  region  was  granted  by  the  charter  for  three 
years,  from  the  first  day  of  January,  1615,  to  Gerrit 
Jacob  Witsen,  of  Amsterdam,  and  other  merchants 
associated  with  him,  who  had  been  concerned  in  the 
previous  voyages  to  the  Island  of  Manhattan  and  in  the 
trading  houses  established  there,  and  on  Hudson  river, 
and  who  were  now  incorporated  by  the  name  of  the 
United  New-Netherland  Company.  The  Dutch  rule 
dating  its  commencement,  in  1614,  lasted  continuously, 
but  fifty  years,  ten  of  which  had  passed  away  before 
the  settlements  were  placed  under  a  regular  local  gov- 
ernment. So  slow  was  their  after  growth,  that  in  1664, 
when  the  colony  was  surrendered  to  the  English,  its 
population  did  not  exceed  10,000  souls.'  '  On  the  3d 
of  June,  1621,  the  States  General  established  by  law, 
the  famous  "  Chartered  West  India  Company."  ' 

*  See  the  address  of  Hon.  B.  F.  Butler,  New  York  His.  Colls.  New  Series^ 
No.  2,  page  13. 


105 


From  an  article  in  the  New  York  His.  Collections, 
vol.  2d,  New  Series,  page  278,  entitled.  Early  Coloniz- 
ation of  New  Netherland,  it  appears,  that  the  Colony 
had,  in  1625,  increased  to  two  hundred  souls  ;  and  in 
1628,  numbered  270  souls,  including  men,  women  and 
children.  In  1625,  103  head  of  cattle  were  imported, 
of  which  some  20  were  lost.  It  is  quite  remarkable, 
that  no  interview  occurred  sooner  between  the  Pil- 
gi'ims  and  the  Dutch.  In  the  year  1623,  intelligence 
arrived  that  Massasoit  was  suddenly  seized  with  dan- 
gerous sickness,  and  that  a  Dutch  ship  had  been  driven 
on  shore  before  his  dwelling,  and  Gov.  Winslow  was 
deputed  to  visit  him.  Among  other  reasons  assigned 
for  this  measure,  in  Winslow's  Relation,  was  the  fol- 
lowing :  '  and  the  rather  because  we  desired  to  have 
some  conference  with  the  Dutch,  not  knowing  when 
we  should  have  so  fit  an  occasion.' 

This  is  the  only  reference  to  the  Dutch,  in  our  early 
history,  after  the  landing,  till  the  visit  of  De  Rasiers  in 
1627.  The  ship  had  sailed  before  Winslow  arrived 
at  the  residence  of  Massasoit. 

[THIS*  year  we  had  letters  sent  us  from  the  Dutch 
plantation,  of  whom  we  had  heard  much  by  the  natives, 
but  never  could  hear  from  them  nor  meet  with  them 
before  themselves  thus  ^^^:it  to  us,  and  after  sought  us 
out ;  their  letters  were  wTit  in  a  very  fair  hand,  the  one 
in  French,  and  the  other  in  Dutch,  but  were  one  ver- 
batim, so  far  as  the  tongue  would  bear. 

*  See  Mass.  His.  Collections,  vol.  3,  first  series,  for  the  entire  correspond- 
ence. 


106 


Here  follows  a  letter*  in  Low  Dutch,  from  Isaac  de 
Razier  at  Manhatas,  in  Fort  Amsterdam,  Mar.  9, 
1627,  N.  S.,  to  the  Governour  of  New  Plymouth. 

I  will  not  trouble  myself  to  translate  this  letter,  see- 
ing the  effect  of  it  will  be  understood  by  the  answer 
which  now  follows  in  English,  though  writ  to  them  in 
Dutch.] 

To  the  Honorable  and  Worshipful  the  Director  and 
Council  of  New  Netherland,  our  very  loving  and 
worthy  friends  and  Christian  neighbours. 

THE  Governour  and  Council  of  Plymouth  in  New 
England  wish  your  Hours  Worships  all  happiness, 
and  prosperity  in  this  life,  and  eternal  rest  and  glory 
with  Christ  Jesus  our  Lord  in  the  world  to  come. 

We  have  received  your  letters,  wherein  appeareth 
your  good  will  and  friendship  toward  us,  but  is  ex- 
pressed with  over  high  titles,  and  more  than  belongs  to 
us,  or  than  is  meet  for  us  to  receive  :  But  for  your  good 
will  and  congratulation  of  our  prosperity  in  this  small 
beginning  of  our  poor  colony,  we  are  much  bound  unto 
you,  and  with  many  thanks  do  acknowledge  the  same  ; 
taking  it  both  for  a  gi'eat  honour  done  unto  us,  and  for 
a  certain  testimony  of  your  love,  and  good  neighbor- 
hood. Now  these  are  further  to  give  your  H,onours, 
Worships,  and  Wisdoms  to  understand,  that  it  is  no 
small  joy  to  hear,  that  it  hath  pleased  God  to  move  his 
Majesty's  heart,  not  only  to  confirm  that  ancient  amity, 
alliance,  and  friendship,  and  other  contracts  formerly 
made,  and  ratified  by  his  predecessors  of  famous  mem- 
ory ;  but  hath  himself  (as  you  say)  and  we  likewise 

*  A  part  only  of  this  letter  is  here  copied. 


107 


have  been  informed,  strengthened  the  same  with  a  new 
union,  the  better  to  resist  the  pride  of  that  common 
enemy  the  Spaniards,  from  whose  cruelty  the  Lord 
keep  us  both,  and  our  native  countries.  Now  for  as 
much  as  this  is  sufficient  to  unite  us  together  in  love, 
and  good  neighborhood  in  all  our  dealings ;  yet  are 
many  of  us  further  tied  by  the  good  and  courteous  en- 
treaty which  we  have  found  in  your  country ;  having 
lived  there  many  years,  with  freedom  and  good  content, 
as  many  of  our  friends  do  to  this  day ;  for  which  we  are 
bound  to  be  thankful,  and  our  children  after  us,  and 
shall  never  forget  the  same,  but  shall  heartily  desire 
your  good  and  prosperity,  as  our  own  forever.  Like- 
wise for  your  friendly  proposition  and  offer,  to  accomo- 
date and  help  us  with  any  commodities  or  merchandize, 
which  you  have  and  we  want,  either  for  beaver,  otters, 
or  other  wares,  is  to  us  very  acceptable,  and  we  doubt 
not  but  in  short  time,  we  may  have  profitable  com- 
merce and  trade  together : 

By  the  Governour  and  Council,  your  Honours' 
and  Worships'  very  good  friends  and  neighbours. 
New  Plymouth,  March  19th. 

[NEXT  follows  their  reply  to  this  our  answer,  very 
friendly,  but  maintaining  their  right  and  liberty  to  trade 
in  these  parts,  which  we  had  desired  they  would  for- 
bear ;  alleging  that  as  we  had  authority  and  commis- 
sion from  our  king ;  so  they  had  the  like  from  the 
States  of  Holland,  which  they  would  defend.] 

August  7,  1627. 

Monsieur  Monseignieur,  William  Bradford,  Governeur 
in  New  Plernuen. 


108 


This  will  I  put  in  English  and  so  will  end  with 
theirs,  viz. 

After  the  wishing  of  all  good  unto  you,  this  serves 
to  let  you  understand,  that  we  have  received  your 
(acceptable)  letters,  dated  the  14th  of  the  last  month, 
by  John  Jacobson  of  Wiring,  who  besides,  by  word  of 
mouth,  hath  reported  unto  us  your  kind  and  friendly 
entertainment  of  him  ;  for  which  cause  (by  the  good 
liking  and  approbation  of  the  Directors  and  Council) 
I  am  resolved  to  come  myself,  in  friendship  to  visit  you, 
that  we  may  by  word  of  mouth  friendly  communicate 
of  things  together  ;  as  also  to  report  unto  you  the  good 
will  and  favour  that  the  Honourable  Lords  of  the  au- 
thorized West  Indian  Company  bear  towards  you. 
And  to  show  our  willingness  of  your  good  accommo- 
dation, have  brought  with  me  some  cloth  of  three  sorts 
and  colours,  and  a  chest  of  white  sugar,  as  also  some 
seawan,  &c.  not  doubting  but,  if  any  of  them  be  service- 
able unto  you,  we  shall  agree  well  enough  about  the 
prices  thereof.  Also  John  Jacobson  aforesaid  hath  told 
me,  that  he  came  to  you  over  land  in  six  houres,  but  I 
have  not  gone  so  far  this  three  or  four  years,  wherefore  I 
fear  my  feet  will  fail  me ;  so  I  am  constrained  to  entreat 
you  to  afford  me  the  easiest  means,  that  I  may,  with 
least  weariness,  come  to  congratulate  with  you :  So 
leaving  other  things  to  the  report  of  the  bearer,  shall 
herewith  end;  remembering  my  hearty  salutations  to 
yourself  and  friends,  &c.  from  a-board  the  bark  Nas- 
sau, the  4th  of  October ;  before  Frenchman's  point. 

Your  affectionate  friend. 
Anno  1627.  Isaac  De  Razier. 


109 


[SO,  according  to  his  request,  we  sent  our  boat*  for 
him,  who  came  honourably  attended  with  a  noise  of 
trumpeters ;  he  was  their  upper  commis,  or  chief  mer- 
chant, and  second  to  the  Governour ;  a  man  of  a  fair 
and  genteel  behaviour,  but  soon  after  fell  into  disgrace 
amongst  them ;  by  reason  of  their  factions ;  and  thus 
at  length  we  came  to  meet  and  deal  together.  We  at 
this  time  bought  sundry  of  their  commodities,  especial- 
ly their  seivan  or  ivampampeach^  which  was  the  begin- 
ning of  a  profitable  ti'ade  with  us  and  the  Indians  : 
We  furthur  understood,  that  their  masters  were  willing 
to  have  friendship  with  us  and  to  supply  us  with  sun- 
dry commodities,  and  offered  us  assistance  against  the 
French,  if  need  were.  The  which,  though  we  know  it 
was  with  an  eye  to  then*  own  profit,  yet  we  had  reason 
both  kindly  to  accept  it  and  make  use  of  it :  So  after 
this  sundry  of  them  came  often  to  us,  and  many  letters 
passed  between  us,  the  which  I  will  pass  by,  as  being 
about  particular  dealings,  and  would  not  be  here  very 
pertinent ;  only  upon  this  passage  we  wrote  one  to 
their  Lords  and  masters  ;  as  folio  we  th.f] 

Letter  of  Isaack  de  Rasieres. 
The  valuable  and  highly  interesting  letter  of  De 
Rasieres,  written  soon  after  visiting  Plymouth  in  1627, 
first  appeared  in  the  N.  York  Hist.  Colls.,  vol.  2,  new 
series,  and  that  part  of  it  having  special  reference  to 
the  Old  Colony  is  copied  here  by  permission  of  John 

*  The  boat  was  sent  to  Scusset  Harbor,  in  Sandwich,  from  whence  to 
Manomet  River,  on  Buzzard's  Bay,  the  distance  by  land  is  about  six  miles. 

t  The  letter  here  alluded  to  is  necessarily  omitted. 
10 


110 


Romeyn  Brodhead,  Esq.,  late  Secretary  of  Legation 
at  the  Court  of  London,  by  whose  instrumentality  it 
was  recently  obtained  in  Plolland.*  The  introductory 
note  of  ]\Ii\  Brodhead  affords  valuable  illustrations, 
connected  with  the  letter  itself,  which  cannot  fail  to  be 
highly  appreciated  by  the  reader. 

Note. —  While  engaged  in  making  researches  as 
Agent  of  the  State  of  New  York,  in  the  Archives  at 
the  Hague,  in  1841,  it  occurred  to  me  that  the  MSS. 
Department  of  the  Royal  Library  there  might  contain 
something  relating  to  our  History,  and  with  the  assist- 
ance of  Mr.  Campbell,  one  of  the  Deputy  Librarians, 
a  careful  examination  was  accordingly  made  in  that 
Repository.  But  with  the  exception  of  the  fragment 
of  one  manuscript,  a  copy  of  which  is  now  in  the 
Secretary  of  State's  Office,  at  Albany,  [Hoi.  Doc,  vol. 
in.,  p.  90.]  nothing  was  then  found.  It  seems,  how- 
ever, that  a  parcel  of  MSS.  has  recently  been  purchased 
for  the  Library,  and  among  these  Mr.  Campbell's  kind 
research  has  detected  the  letter,  a  copy  of  which  he 
has  made  for  the  New  York  Historical  Society.  In 
the  following  translation  I  have  endeavored  to  render, 
as  literally  as  possible,  the  original  of  a  document,  the 
high  value  of  which  will  be  readily  appreciated,  when 
it  is  considered  that  it  is  the  earliest  description  we  have 
of  the  Colony  of  New  Netherland  and  its  neighbor- 
hood, from  an  eye  witness. 

*  The  indefatigable  investigations  of  Mr.  Brodhead,  in  England,  France 
and  Holland,  have  resulted  in  the  acquisition  of  many  important  documents 
connected  with  our  colonial  history,  for  an  account  of  which  see  his  Address 
before  the  New  York  Hist.  Society,  Nov.  1844. 


Ill 


Wassenaer,  it  is  true,  in  his  '  Historiache  Verhael,' 
—  a  very  rare  work,  which  I  have  lately  had  the  good 
fortune  to  meet  with  in  London,  —  gives  several  very 
interesting  particulars  respecting  New  Netherland,  as 
early  as  1623  and  1624;  and  we  all  know  that  De 
Laet  published  in  1625  an  account  of  the  discoveries 
of  Hudson  and  the  other  early  navigators  to  our  coast, 
whose  journals,  he  distinctly  states,  he  had  before  him 
when  he  wrote.  Bat  the  earliest  detailed  description 
of  the  Island  of  New  York,  by  a  person  who  visited  it 
himself,  in  1626,  is  now,  for  the  first  time,  brought  to 
light.  It  will  be  remembered,  that  among  the  docu- 
ments found  in  the  Archives  at  the  Hague,  is  a  letter 
of  Mr.  P.  Schagen  to  the  States  General,  dated  at 
Amsterdam,  November  5,  1626,  [Hoi.  Doc,  vol.  I.,  p. 
155.]  in  which  he  reports  the  arrival  of  the  ship  "  Arms 
of  Amsterdam,"  which  sailed  from  the  North  River  on 
the  23  of  September,  and  brought  the  intelligence  ot 
the  purchase  of  Manhatten  Island  from  the  Indians, 
for  the  sum  of  about  Twenty-four  Dollars.  The  writer 
of  the  following  letter,  Isaack  de  Rasieres,  went  out 
passenger  in  this  very  ship,  which  arrived  in  New 
Netherland,  as  he  tells  us,  on  the  27th  of  July,  1626 ; 
and  as  the  purchase  of  the  Island  of  Manhatten  was 
made  before  the  23rd  of  September  following,  when 
the  '  Arms  of  Amsterdam '  returned  to  Holland,  it  is 
quite  probable  he  was  himself  one  of  the  witnesses  of 
that  interesting  event.  De  Rasieres,  (whose  name  has 
been  variously  and  incorrectly  spelled  in  our  published 
documents,)  seems  to  have  been  a  French  Protestant, 
whose  ancestors,  seeking  refuge  from  persecution,  set- 


112 


tied  themselves  on  the  River  Waal,  in  Guelderland, 
and  were  hence  called  '  Walloons.'  He  was  probably 
a  protege  of  Mr.  Samuel  Blommaert,  one  of  the  lead- 
ing Directors  of  the  West  India  Company,  to  whom, 
as  a  mark  of  his  gi-atitude,  he  addressed  his  interesting 
letter.  On  his  arrival  at  New  Netherland,  De  Rasieres 
became  '  Opper  Koopman,'  or  Chief  Commissary  un- 
der Director  Minuit,  and  also  acted  as  Secretary  of 
the  Colony.  In  this  capacity  he  conducted  a  corres- 
pondence with  Governor  Bradford,  of  New  Plymouth, 
in  March,  1627,  and  in  the  following  October  he  was 
himself  despatched  on  an  embassy  to  that  Colony, 
where  he  was  honorably  received  by  Bradford,  who 
speaks  of  him  as  the  Dutch  '  Upper  Commies,  or 
chief  Merchant,  and  second  to  the  Governor ;  a  man 
of  fair  and  genteel  behavior,' — adding  that  he 'soon 
after  fell  into  disgrace  among  them  by  reason  of  their 
factions.'  This  is  all  we  know  of  De  Rasieres ;  and 
without  any  precise  information  as  to  the  cause  of  the 
seizure  of  his  '  things  and  notes,'  which  he  mentions  in 
the  beginning  of  his  letter,  we  cannot  but  regret  a  cir- 
cumstance but  for  which,  as  he  himself  tells  us,  we  should 
have  perhaps  been  gratified  by  a  still  more  ample  and 
detailed  account  than  the  one  he  has  now  left  us,  of 
the  early  days  of  New  Netherland.  De  Rasieres' letter 
has  no  date,  but  it  was  evidently  written  from  memory, 
and  after  his  return  to  Holland,  —  probably  about  the 
close  of  1627.  Unfortunately,  it  is  defective ;  and, 
judging  from  the  part  immediately  following  the  hiatus, 
we  may  reasonably  infer  that  the  missing  portion 
would  have  been  of  the  highest  interest  to  us,     It  is 


113 


quite  probable  that  De  Rasieres  gave  some  particulars 
of  the  purchase  of  the  Island,  as  well  as  of  the  politi- 
cal and  commercial  situation  of  the  infant  colony,  and 
of  the  topography  of  the  country  between  Manhatten 
and  Narragansett  Bay.  But  still  quite  enough  remains 
to  us  to  induce  lively  congratulation  that  a  happy 
chance  has  now  placed  so  precious  a  fragment  within 
our  reach.  J.  Romeyn  Brodhead. 

London,  17th  August,  1848. 

Coming  out  of  the  river  Nassau*  you  sail  east-and- 
by  North  about  fourteen  miles,  along  the  coast,  a  half 
a  mile  from  the  shore,  and  you  then  come  to  '  French- 
man's Point,'!  ^^  ^  small  river  where  those  of  Patucx- 
etj  have  a  house  made  of  hewn  oak  planks,  called 
Aptucxet,§  where  they  keep  two  men,  winter  and  sum- 
mer, in  order  to  maintain  the  trade  and  possession. 
Where  also  they  have  built  a  shallop,  in  order  to  go 
and  look  after  the  trade  in  sewan,  in  Sloup's  Bay|| 
and  thereabouts,  because  they  are  afraid  to  pass  Cape 
Malabaer,  and  in  order  to  avoid  the  length  of  the  way ; 
which  I  have  prevented  for  this  yearll  by  selling  them 

*  Karraganset  Bay. 

t  De  Rasieres  dates  his  letter  to  Gov.  Bradford,  of  4th  October,  1627,  from 
•aboard  the  barque  Nassau,'  off  this  point.  [See  Coll.  N.  Y.  Hist.  Soc, 
"Vol.  1.,  new  series,  p.  362.] 

I  The  Indian  name  for  New  Plymouth. 

§  See  Bradford's  description  of  Manomet,  in  Prince,  p.  67  ;  and  see  also 
Coll.  N.  Y.  Hist.  Soc,  Vol.  L,  new  series,  pp.  357,  358. 

II  The  western  entrance  to  Narraganset  Bay. 

T[  See  also  Bradford's  account  of  this  transaction,  in  Coll.  N.  Y.  Hist.  Soc, 
Vol.  I.,  new  series,  p.  357. 
10* 


114 


fifty  fathoms  of  sewan,  because  the  seeking  after  sewan 
by  them  is  prejudicial  to  us,  inasmuch  as  they  would, 
by  so  doing,  discover  the  trade  in  furs  ;  which  if  they 
were  to  find  out,  it  would  be  a  great  trouble  for  us  to 
maintain,  for  they  already  dare  to  threaten  that  if  we 
will  not  leave  off  dealing  with  that  people,  they  will  be 
obliged  to  use  other  means  ;  if  they  do  that  now,  while 
they  are  yet  ignorant  how  the  case  stands,  what  will 
they  do  when  they  do  get  a  notion  of  it  ? 

From  Aptucxet  the  English  can  come  in  six  hours, 
through  the  woods,  passing  several  little  rivulets  of 
fresh  water,  to  New  Plymouth,  the  principal  place  in 
the  country  Patucxet,  so  called  in  their  '  Octroye ' 
from  His  Majesty  in  England.  New  Plymouth  lies  in 
a  large  bay  to  the  north  of  Cape  Cod,  or  Mallabaer, 
east  and  west  from  the  said  [north]  point  of  the  cape, 
which  can  be  easily  seen  in  clear  weather.  Directly 
before  the  commenced  town  lies  a  sand  bank,  about 
twenty  paces  broad,  whereon  the  sea  breaks  violently 
with  an  easterly  and  north  easterly  wind.  On  the 
north  side  there  lies  a  small  island  where  one  must  run 
close  along,  in  order  to  come  before  the  town  ;  then  the 
ships  run  behind  that  bank  and  lie  in  a  very  good 
road-stead.  The  bay  is  very  full  of  fish  [chiefly]  of 
cod,  so  that  the  Governor  before  named,*  has  told  me 
that  when  the  people  have  a  desire  for  fish,  they  send 
out  two  or  three  persons  in  a  sloop,  whom  they  remun- 
erate for  their  trouble,  and  who  bring  them,  in  three  or 
four  hours'  time,  as  much  fish  as  the  whole  community 

*  Probably  in  the  portion  of  this  letter  which  is  unfortunately  missing. 


115 


require  for  a  whole  day  —  and  they  muster  about  fifty 
families. 

At  the  south  side  of  the  town  there  flows  down  a 
small  river  of  fresh  water,  very  rapid,  but  shallow, 
which  takes  its  rise  from  several  lakes  in  the  land 
above,  and  there  empties  into  the  sea;  where  in  April 
and  the  beginning  of  May  there  come  so  many  herring* 
from  the  sea  which  want  to  ascend  that  river,  that  it  is 
quite  surprising.  This  river  the  English  have  shut  in 
with  planks,  and  in  the  middle  with  a  little  door,  which 
slides  up  and  down,  and  at  the  sides  with  trellice  work, 
through  which  the  water  has  its  course,  but  which  they 
can  also  close  with  slides.  At  the  mouth  they  have 
constructed  it  with  planks,  like  an  eel  pot,  with  wings, 
where  in  the  middle  is  also  a  sliding  door,  and  with 
trellice  work  at  the  sides,  so  that  between  the  two 
[dams]  there  is  a  square  pool,  into  which  the  fish 
aforesaid  come  swimming  in  such  shoals,  in  order  to 
get  up  above,  where  they  deposit  their  spawn,  that  at 
one  tide  there  are  10,000  to  12,000  fish  in  it,  which 
they  shut  off  in  the  rear  at  the  ebb,  and  close  up  the 
trellices  above,  so  that  no  more  water  comes  in ;  then 
the  water  runs  out  through  the  lower  trellices  and  they 
draw  out  the  fish  with  baskets,  each  according  to  the 
land  he  cultivates,  and  carry  them  to  it,  depositing  in 
each  hill  three  or  four  fishes,  and  in  these  they  plant 
their  maize,  which  grows  as  luxuriantly  therein  as 
though  it  were  the  best  manure  in  the  world :  and  if 

*  In  the  original  Dutch, '  elft,'  is  generally  translated  Shad,—  perhaps  it 
would  be  more  properly  rendered  alewives.  J.  r.  b. 


116 


they  do  not  lay  this  fish  therein,  the  maize  will  not 
grow,  so  that  such  is  the  nature  of  the  soil. 

New  Plymouth  lies  on  the  slope  of  a  hill  stretch- 
ing east  towards  the  sea-coast,  with  a  broad  street 
about  a  cannon  shot  of  800  [yards]  long,  leading  down 
the  hill ;  with  a  [street]  crossing  in  the  middle,  north- 
wards to  the  rivulet,  and  southwards  to  the  land.  The 
houses  are  constructed  of  hewn  planks,  with  gardens 
also  enclosed  behind  and  at  the  sides  with  hewn  planks, 
so  that  their  houses  and  court  yards  are  arranged  in 
very  good  order,  v/ith  a  stockade  against  a  sudden 
attack ;  and  at  the  ends  of  the  streets  there  are  three 
wooden  gates.  In  the  centre,  on  the  cross  street,  stands 
the  Governor's  house,  before  which  is  a  square  enclos- 
ure upon  which  four  patereros  [steen-stucken]  are 
mounted,  so  as  to  flank  along  the  streets.  Upon  the 
hill,  they  have  a  large  square  house,  with  a  flat  roof, 
made  of  thick  sawn  planks,  stayed  with  oak  beams, 
upon  the  top  of  which  they  have  six  cannons,  which 
shoot  iron  balls  of  four  and  five  pounds,  and  command 
the  surrounding  country.  The  lower  part  they  use  for 
their  church,  where  they  preach  on  Sundays  and  the 
usual  holidays.  They  assemble  by  beat  of  drum, 
each  with  his  musket  or  firelock,  in  front  of  the  cap- 
tain's door ;  they  have  their  cloaks  on  and  place  them- 
selves in  order,  three  abreast,  and  are  led  by  a  sergeant 
without  beat  of  drum.  Behind  comes  the  Governor,  in  a 
long  robe  ;  beside  him,  on  the  right  hand,  comes  the 
preacher  with  his  cloak  on,  and  on  the  left  hand  the  cap- 
tain with  his  side  arms  and  cloak  on,  and  with  a  small 
cane  in  his  hand,  —  and  so  they  march  in  good   order. 


117 


and  each  sets  his  arms  down  near  him.    Thus  they  are 
constantly  on  their  guard  night  and  day. 

Their  government  is  after  the  English  form.  The 
Governor  has  his  council,  which  is  chosen  every  year 
by  the  entire  community  by  election  or  prolongation 
of  term.  In  the  inheritance  they  place  all  the  children 
in  one  degi'ee,  only  the  eldest  son  has  an  acknowledge- 
ment for  his  seniority  of  birth. 

They  have  made  stringent  laws  and  ordinances  upon 
the  subject  of  fornication  and  adultery,  which  laws  they 
maintain  and  enforce  very  strictly  indeed,  even  among 
the  tribes  which  live  amongst  them.  They  [the  Eng- 
lish] speak  very  angrily,  when  they  hear  from  the 
savages  that  we  should  live  so  barbarously  in  these 
respects,  and  without  punishment. 

Their  farms  are  not  so  good  as  ours,  because  they 
are  more  stony,  and  consequently  not  so  suitable  for 
the  plough.  They  apportion  their  land  according  as 
each  has  means  to  contribute  to  the  Eighteen  Thous- 
and Guilders  which  they  have  promised  to  those  who 
had  sent  them  out ;  whereby  they  have  their  freedom 
without  rendering  an  account  to  any  one  ;  only  if  the 
king  should  choose  to  send  a  Governor  General  they 
would  be  obliged  to  acknowledge  him  as  sovereign 
chief. 

The  maize  seed  which  they  do  not  require  for  their 
own  use  is  delivered  over  to  the  Governor,  at  three 
guilders  the  bushel,  who  in  his  turn  sends  it  in  sloops 
to  the  North  for  the  trade  in  skins  among  the  savages ; 
they  reckon  one  bushel  of  maize  against  one  pound  of 
beaver's  skin  ;  in  the  first  place,  a  division  is  made, 


118 


according  to  what  each  has  contributed,  and  they  are 
credited  for  the  amount  in  the  account  of  what  each 
has  to  contribute  yearly  towards  the  reduction  of  his 
obligation.  Then  with  the  remainder  they  purchase 
what  next  they  require,  and  which  the  Governor  takes 
care  to  provide  every  year. 

They  have  better  means  of  living  than  ourselves,  be- 
cause they  have  the  fish  so  abundant  before  their  doors. 
There  are  also  many  birds,  such  as  geese,  herons, 
and  cranes,  and  other  small-legged  birds  which  are  in 
great  abundance  there  in  the  winter.  The  tribes  in 
their  neighborhood  have  all  the  same  customs  as  already 
above  described,  only  they  are  better  conducted  than 
ours,  because  the  English  give  them  the  example  of 
better  ordinances  and  a  better  life  ;  and  who,  also  to  a 
certain  degree,  give  them  laws,  by  means  of  the  respect 
they  from  the  very  first  have  established  amongst  them. 

The  savages  [there]  practice  their  youth  in  labor 
better  than  the  savages  round  about  us  ;  the  young 
girls  in  sowing  maize,  the  young  men  in  hunting ;  they 
teach  them  to  endure  privation  in  the  field  in  a  sin- 
gular manner,  to  wit:  when  there  is  a  youth  who 
begins  to  approach  manhood,  he  is  taken  by  his  father, 
uncle,  or  nearest  friend  and  is  conducted  bhndfolded 
into  a  wilderness,  in  order  that  he  may  not  know  the 
way,  and  is  left  there  by  night  or  otherwise,  with  a 
bow  and  arrows,  and  a  hatchet  and  a  knife.  He  must 
support  himself  there  a  whole  winter,  with  what  the 
scanty  earth  furnishes  at  this  season,  and  by  hunting. 
Towards  the  spring  they  come  again,  and  fetch  him 
out  of  it,  take  him  home  and  feed  him  up  again  until 


119 


May.  He  must  then  go  out  again  every  morning 
with  the  person  who  is  ordered  to  take  him  in  hand ; 
he  must  go  into  the  forest  to  seek  wild  herbs  and 
roots  which  they  know  to  be  the  most  poisonous 
and  bitter ;  these  they  bruise  in  water  and  press  the 
juice  out  of  them,  which  he  must  drink  and  im- 
mediately have  ready  such  herbs  as  will  preserve 
him  from  death  or  vomiting ;  and  if  he  cannot  retain 
it,  he  must  repeat  the  dose  until  he  can  support  it,  and 
until  his  constitution  becomes  accustomed  to  it  so  that 
he  can  retain  it.  Then  he  comes  home,  and  is  brought 
by  the  men  and  women,  all  singing  and  dancing, 
before  the  Sackima ;  and  if  he  has  been  able  to  stand 
it  all  out  well,  and  if  he  is  fat  and  sleek,  a  wife  is 
given  to  him. 

In  that  district  thefe  are  no  lions  or  bears,  but  there 
are  the  same  kinds  of  other  game,  such  as  deers,  hinds, 
beavers,  otters,  foxes,  lynxes,  seals,  and  fish,  as  in  our 
district  of  country.  The  savages  say  that  far  in  the 
interior,  there  are  certain  beasts  of  the  size  of  oxen, 
having  but  one  horn,  which  are  very  fierce.  The  Eng- 
lish have  used  great  diligence  in  order  to  see  them, 
but  cannot  succeed  therein,  although  they  have  seen 
the  flesh  and  hides  of  them  which  were  brought  to 
them  by  the  savages.  There  are  also  very  large  elks 
there  which  the  English  have  indeed  seen.  The  lion 
skins  which  we  sometimes  see  our  savages  wear,  are 
not  large,  so  that  the  animal  itself  must  be  small ; 
they  are  of  a  mouse  grey  color,  short  in  the  hair,  and 
long  in  the  claws.  The  bears  are  some  of  them  large 
and  some  small ;  but  the  largest  are  not  as  large  as 


mo 


the  middle-sized  ones  which  come  from  Greenland. 
Their  fur  is  long  and  black,  and  their  claws  large. 
The  savages  esteem  the  flesh  and  grease  as  a  great 
dainty.  Of  the  birds,  there  is  a  kind  like  starlings, 
which  we  call  maize  thieves,  because  they  do  so  much 
damage  to  it.  They  fly  in  large  flocks,  so  that  they 
flatten  the  corn  in  any  place  where  they  light,  just  as 
if  cattle  had  lain  there.  Sometimes  we  take  them  by 
surprise  and  fire  amongst  them  with  hail  shot,  imme- 
diately that  we  have  made  them  rise,  so  that  sixty, 
seventy,  and  eighty  fall  all  at  once,  which  is  very 
pleasant  to  see.  There  are  also  very  large  turkeys 
living  wild  ;  they  have  very  long  legs,  and  can  run 
extraordinarily  fast,  so  that  we  generally  take  savages 
with  us  when  we  go  to  hunt  them  for  even  when  one 
has  deprived  them  of  the  power  of  flying,  they  yet 
run  so  fast  that  we  cannot  catch  them  unless  their 
legs  are  hit  also.  In  the  autumn  and  in  the  spring 
there  come  a  great  many  geese,  which  are  very  good, 
[to  eat]  and  easy  to  shoot,  inasmuch  as  they  congre- 
gate together  in  such  large  flocks.  There  are  two 
kinds  of  partridges;  the  one  sort  are  quite  as  small  as 
quails,  and  the  other  like  the  ordinary  kind  here.  There 
are  also  hares,  but  few  in  number,  and  not  larger  than 
a  middle  sized  rabbit ;  and  they  principally  frequent 
where  the  land  is  rocky. 

This,  sir,  is  what  I  have  been  able  to  communicate 
to  you  from  memory,  respecting  New  Netherland,  and 
its  neighborhood,  in  discharge  of  my  bounden  duty  ; 
I  beg  that  the  same  may  be  so  favorably  received  by 
you,  and  I  beg  to  recommend  myself  for  such  further 


121 


service  as  you  may  be  pleased  to  command  me   in, 
wherever  you  may  find  me. 

In  everything  your  faithful  servant, 

IsAACK  De  Rasieres. 

Note  to  De  Rasieres's  Letter.  The  letter  of  De 
Rasieres  describes  the  town  of  Plymouth,  its  defensive 
array,  and  the  manner  of  procedure  observed  by  the 
church,  in  attending  public  worship,  with  more  minute- 
ness of  detail,  than  is  found  in  any  of  our  early  records 
or  history.  From  the  description  of  streets  it  is  evi- 
dent, that  in  1627,  Main  Street  ran  at  right  angles 
with  Leyden  Street,  which  it  crossed,  continuing  South 
partly  over  the  lot  now  occupied  by  Wm.  R.  Drew, 
and  that  of  the  late  Wm.  Davis,  Esq.,  and  thence  in 
a  circular  direction  till  it  joined  Summer  Street.  The 
words  running  '  North  towards  the  rivulet,'  doubtless 
refer  to  the  first  brook,  near  the  dwelling  house  of  Mr. 
Ichabod  Shaw.  It  seems  probable  also,  that  Main 
Street,  from  its  junction  on  the  north  side  with  Leyden 
Street,  took  a  northerly  course,  over  the  lot  now  owned 
and  occupied  by  Josiah  Robbins,  Esq.  The  residence 
of  Governor  Bradford,  was  probably  that  now  occupied 
by  Mr.  Thomas  Loring,  at  the  corner  of  Main  and 
Leyden  Streets,  on  the  westerly  side  of  said  Main 
Street.  This  lot  it  is  inferred  was  the  homestead  of 
Gov.  Bradford,  and  it  continued  in  possession  of  his 
descendants  till  the  year  1695,  when  it  was  sold  to 
John  Murdock. 

The  reader  will  not  fail  to  observe  in  this  letter,  a 

reference  to  the  high  moral  character  of  the  Pilgrims, 
11 


122 


and  its  influence  on  the  natives,  contrasted  with  the 
prevailing  practices  in  the  Dutch  settlement,  at  the 
same  time  ;  a  tribute  the  more  valuable  coming  from 
so  impartial,  intelligent  and  discriminating  a  source. 

Manoinet.  —  This  village  forms  a  part  of  Sandwich, 
in  Barnstable  County,  and  is  situated  on  the  north- 
£iUi^  westerly  part  of  Buzzard's  Bay,  about  six  and  one-half 
"^  miles  by  the  road,  distant  from  Scusset  harbor,  in  a 
north-easterly  direction,  and  is  thus  described  by  the 
late  Samuel  Davis,  Esq.,  of  Plymouth.  Manomet  Bay 
is  but  a  mile  across,  from  a  part  of  the  Wareham 
shore,  to  Manomet  River,  on  the  back  shore  of  Sand- 
wich. That  rivulet  was  visited  by  Gov.  Bradford  as 
early  as  1622,  to  procure  corn,  and  was  the  Pimese- 
poese  of  the  natives.  This  compound  phrase  signifies, 
'  provision  rivulet.'  What  a  remarkable  coincidence 
in  the  aboriginal  name  and  the  colonial  voyage !  We 
do  not  assume  this  explanation  without  substantial 
and  tenable  grounds.  The  first  part  of  the  phrase, 
pime,  is,  in  its  uses,  'food,'  'provision;'  the  latter, 
'little  river.'  There  too  it  was,  that  a  barque  was 
built  by  the  Plymouth  Colonies,  in  1627,  and  a  trade 
opened  with  the  Dutch  at  New  Netherlands,  (N.York.) 
It  was,  in  fact,  the  Suez,  while  Plymouth  was  the 
Aleppo,  of  our  ancestors.  The  traveller,  therefore,  as 
he  passes  on  his  way,  may  here  make  a  pause,  erect 
a  pillar,  and  muse  on  the  swift  flight  of  ages,  — '  How 
changeful  and  how  brief!' 

The  site  of  the  old  Colony  trading  house  of  the  Pil- 
grims, has  been  satisfactorily  ascertained,  as  will  appear 
from   the   following   statement.      In  a  grant  of  land 


123 


made  by  the  Colony  to  James  Skiff,  recorded,  Book 
of  Court  Orders,  Vol.  3,  p.  84, —  land  is  conveyed 
'  which  was  formerly  the  Company's,  where  they  had 
a  trading  house.'  By  means  of  this  document  and 
some  other  grants  adjacent,  which  were  placed  in 
the  hands  of  John  Batchelder,  M.D.,  of  Manomet 
village,  he  has  been  able,  after  minute  and  careful 
investigation,  to  establish  with  certainty,  the  fact  above 
stated,  and  the  following  particulars  are  extracted  from 
the  account  obligingly  forwarded  by  him  to  the  writer. 
The  Old  Colony  Trading  house  stood  on  the  south 
side  of  Manomet  River,  about  one  hundred  and  seven- 
ty rods  from  the  Bridge,  and  about  one  and  one-fourth 
miles  from  Agawan  Point,  at  the  mouth  of  said  River, 
where  it  enters  Buzzard's  Bay.  Its  site  is  indicated 
by  two  remaining  cellar  holes,  distinctly  marked,  so  as 
to  admit  of  measurement,  and  its  dimensions  were 
about  twenty  by  forty  feet.  It  stood  one  hundred 
yards  from  low  water  mark,  and  an  excellent  spring 
issues  out  near  the  water's  edge,  being  the  first  that 
appears  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  upward.  The 
village  was  first  settled  by  the  English  in  1685. — 
The  spots  occupied  by  the  first  buildings  erected  there 
are  all  well  known,  but  no  tradition  exists,  as  to  the 
trading  house  of  the  Colony  ;  it  having  been  generally 
a  matter  of  conjecture  only,  that  some  kind  of  de- 
fence was  erected  there  against  the  Indians,  though 
previous  tx)  the  year  1685.  The  distance  from  the 
trading  house  to  Sandwich  village,  is,  by  the  road, 
about  six  and  one-half  miles,  and  an  old  cart-way  is 
found  of  several  rods,  strongly  marked  and  much  worn. 


124 


near  the  site  above  described,  of  which  no  account  carl 
be  given  by  tradition  or  history,  except  on  the  supposi- 
tion that  it  was  the  travelled  approach  to  this  interest- 
ing spot  of  Pilgrim  Commerce.  The  width  of  the 
river  at  the  above  point  is  about  fifteen  rods.  Saga- 
more Hill^  probably  the  residence  of  Cawnacome,  the 
Sachem  visited  by  Gov.  Bradford,  is  situated  on  the 
south  side  of  the  river,  on  a  bank  about  seventy-five 
feet  in  height,  which  commands  a  fine  view  for  several 
miles  above  and  below  the  stream.  Upon  the  summit 
of  this  hill  a  large  shell  heap  is  found,  of  considerable 
depth  and  extent,  and  others  on  its  side  and  base. 
Tradition  states  that  this  hill  was  the  residence  of  at 
least  one  Sagamore.  Dr.  Batchelder  concludes,  from 
careful  investigations,  that  the  river  called  by  De  Ka- 
sieres,  Nassau,  was  the  same  that  is  now  called  the 
Weweantic,  and  that  Frenchman's  point,  from  which 
his  letter  to  Gov.  Bradford  was  dated,  in  1627,  of  which 
there  is  no  trace  in  our  history  known  to  the  writer, 
except  in  Morton's  New  England  Memorial,  page  61, 
was  that  now  called  Agawam  Point.  The  population 
of  Manomet  Village,  so  called,  is  now  five  hundred. 
The  river  still  holds  its  claim  to  be  called  '  provision 
rivulet,'  and  in  the  summer  season  yields,  in  abund- 
ance, the  bass,  (two  species)  blue  fish,  scapaug, 
tautaug,  beside  five  species  of  edible  shell  fish, — <■ 
oysters,  quohogs,  clams,  winkles,  and  muscles.  In  the 
winter,  besides  the  various  kinds  of  shell  fish,  we  have 
the  trout,  frost  fish,  and  a  rich,  and,  literally  enough,  an 
inexhaustible  bed  of  eels.  They  form  a  continuous 
bed,  occupying  not  only  the  bottom  of  the  river,  but 
nearly  the  whole  extent  of  the  marshes. 


125 


ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  PASSENGERS 

Who  arrived  at  Plymouth  in  the  Mayflower^  180  f(??is 
burthen^  Dec,  21s^,  1620,  —  the  Fortune  of  55  ton%^ 
Nov.  ^th,  1621,  —  the  Ann,  of  140  tons,  and  the  Little 
James,  of  44  tons,  the  last  of  July,  or  the  beginning  of 
August,  1623. 

The  letter  attached  to  each  name  indicates  the  ves- 
sel in  which  the  passenger  came,  m  stands  for  the 
Mayflower,  —  f  for  the  Fortune,  —  a  for  the  Ann  and 
Little  James. 


NAMES    OF    PASSENGERS. 


NAMES    OF    PASSENGERS. 


A 

A  Edward  Bangs 

M  Mr.  Isaac  AUerton 

A  Robert  Bartlett 

M  John  Alden 

A  Fear  Brewster 

M  John  Allerton 

A  Patience  Brewster 

F  John  Adams 

A  Mary  Bucket 

A  Anthony  Annable 

A  Edward  Burcher 

B 

C 

M  Mr.  William  Bradford 

M  Mr.  John  Carver 

M  Mr.  William  Brewster 

M  Francis  Cook 

M  John  Billington 

i\i  James  Chilton 

M  Peter  Brown 

M  John  Crackston 

M  Richard  Britterige 

M   Richard  Clarke 

F   William  Bassite 

F  John  Cannon 

F  William  Beale 

F  William  Coner 

F  Edward  Bompasse 

F  Robert  Cushman 

F  Jonathan  Brewster 

F  Thomas  Cushman 

F  Clement  Brigges 

A  Thomas  Clarke 

11* 


126 


A  Cuthbert  Cuthbertson      f 
A  Christopher  Conant  a 

A 
D  A 

M  Edward  Dotey 

F   Stephen  Deane  a 

F  Philip  de  La  Noye 

A  Anthony  Dix  a 

E 

M  Francis  Eaton  a 

M  Thomas  English 

F  A 

M  Mr.  Samuel  Fuller 

M  Edward  Fuller 

M  Moses  Fletcher  m 

F  Thomas  Flavell  and  soua 

F  Widow  Foord 

A  John  Faunce 

A  Goodwife  Flavell 

A  Edmund  Flood 


A  Bridget  Fuller 


G 

M  John  Goodman 
M  Richard  Gardiner 

H 

M  John  Rowland 

M  Mr.  Stephen  Hopkins 

F  Robert  Hickes 


William  Hilton 
Timothy  Hatherly 
William  Heard 
Margaret  Hickes  and  her 

children 
William  Hilton's  wife 

and  children 
Edward  Holman 


John  Jenny 

K 

Manasses  Kempton 


Edward  Leister 
Robert  Long 

M 

Mr.  Christopher  Martin 
Mr.  William  Mullins 
Edmund  Margeson 
Benet  Morgan 
Thomas  Morton 
Experience  Mitchell 
George  Morton 
Thomas  Morton,  Jr. 

N 
Austin  Nicholas 
Ellen  Newton 


127 


O 

A  John  Oldham 


M  Degory  Priest 

F  William  Palmer 

F  William  Pitt 

F  Thomas  Prence 

A  Frances  Palmer 

A  Mr.  Perce's  two  serv'ts 

A  Joshua  Pratt 

A  Christian  Penn 

R 

M  Thomas  Rogers 
M  John  Ridgdale 
A  James  Rand 
A  Robert  Rattliffe 

S 
M  Capt.  Miles  Standish 
M  George  Soule 
F  Moses  Simonson 
F  Hugh  Statie 


F  James  Steward 
A  Nicholas  Snow 
A  Alice  Southworth 
A  Francis  Sprague 
A  Barbary  Standish 


M  Edward  Tilly 
M  John  Tilly 
M  Thomas  Tinker 
M  John  Turner 
F  Wilham  Tench 
A  Thomas  Tilden 
A  Stephen  Tracy 

W 

M  Mr.  Edward  Win  slow 
M  Mr.  William  White 
M  Mr.  Richard  Warren 
M  Thomas  Williams 
M  Gilbert  Winslow 
F  John  Winslow 
F  William  Wright 
A  Ralph  Wallen. 


Several  names  contained  in  the  foregoing  list,  are 
differently  spelt  in  modern  times,  namely:  Bassite  is 
now  spelt  Bassett;  Bompasse,  Bumpas,  sometimes 
Bump ;  Burcher  is  probably  the  same  as  Burchard,  the 
name  of  an  early  settler  in  Connecticut;  De  La  Noye, 
Delano ;  Dotey  is  on  our  records  called  Dote,  Dotey, 


128 


and  now  frequently  written  Doten  ;  Simonson,  some- 
times written  Symons,  is  now  Simmons. 

This  list  is  copied  from  the. allotment  of  lands,  in 
1823,  found  in  the  Old  Colony  Records,  Vol.  1,  pages 
4  to  11  inclusive. 

CLOSIINPG  REMARKS  ON  THE  PILGRIMS. 

In  preparing  the  foregoing  pages  for  publication, 
the  writer  has  earnestly  sought  to  present  a  just  and 
true  account  of  the  motives,  character  and  conduct  of 
the  Pilgrims  ;  not,  however,  without  a  consciousness 
that  the  estimate  formed  of  their  claims  to  the  venera- 
tion and  gratitude  of  the  present  age,  will,  by  many,  be 
regarded  as  far  exceeding  the  merits  to  which  they  are 
justly  entitled. 

The  cry  of  intolerance,  persecution  and  injustice  to- 
wards the  natives,  hastily  assumed,  and  framed  into 
serious  charges  against  them,  is  often  deemed  sufficient 
to  outweigh  other  considerations  challenging  in  their 
behalf  our  unqualified  admiration.  It  is  not  difficult  to 
trace  the  origin  of  these  charges  to  the  same  spirit  and 
source  which  originally  drove  them  into  banishment, 
—  which  could  not  rest  satisfied  with  this  measure  of 
punishment  without  the  attempt  to  impugn  their  mo- 
tives, detract  from  their  worth,  and  misrepresent  their 
conduct.  The  fearless  spirits,  who  at  so  early  a  period 
dared  to  array  themselves  in  open  opposition  to  the 
unjust  assumptions,  both  of  the  hierarchy  and  throne 
of  England,  could  not  fail  to  incur  their  unrelenting 
hostility. 


129 


But  whatever  opinions  may  be  entertained  on  these 
points,  —  whether  the  charges  alleged  rest  upon  any 
just  grounds  or  not,  — it  will  hardly  be  denied  that  the 
Pilgrims  accomplished  a  vast  work.  While  it  would 
doubtless  be  unwise  to  claim  for  them  an  exemption 
from  the  common  infirmities  of  our  nature,  the  oppo- 
site extreme,  which  withholds  a  just  recognition  of 
their  high  achievements,  is  liable  to  far  greater  con- 
demnation. 

It  may  well  deserve  our  attention,  to  consider  what 
might  have  been  the  condition  of  our  country  at  the 
present  moment,  had  their  perilous  enterprise  failed  of 
success.  Nearly  ten  years  had  elapsed  after  the  land- 
ing at  Plymouth,  before  any  other  colony,  except  the 
unsuccessful  attempt  of  Weston,  ventured  to  follow 
their  example.  Had  their  enterprise  proved  abortive,  it 
appears  reasonable  to  conclude  that  no  similar  purpose 
of  colonization  would  have  been  renewed  till  many 
years  had  passed  away,  to  soften  the  forbidding  aspect 
of  repeated  failures,  or  to  reconcile  such  a  measure 
with  the  dictates  of  ordinary  prudence, 

France,  at  quite  an  early  period,  had,  with  laudable 
enterprise,  explored  our  northern  and  western  bounda- 
ries, and  conceived  the  purpose  of  establishing  a  con- 
nected chain  of  fortified  posts,  designed  eventually  to 
control  the  destiny  of  North  America.  Who  may  not 
discern,-  in  the  etirly  settlement  of  New  England,  the 
only  effectual  barrier  to  the  execution  of  this  magnifi- 
cent project  of  the  French  nation  ?  In  point  of  fact, 
the  contest  for  supremacy,  between  England  and 
France,   was  long  and   earnest,  and   at  one  time  it 


130 


became  extremely  doubtful  which  of  these  great  rivals 
of  empire  would  ultimately  prevail,  notwithstanding 
the  superiority  of  colonial  strength  possessed  by  the 
former  power.  New  England  enterprise  and  courage 
at  last  determined  this  doubtful,  but  all-important  ques- 
tion, and  history,  faithful  to  its  trust,  in  recording  the 
chivalrous  reduction  of  Louisburg  and  other  colonial 
achievements,  will  award  the  claims  of  justice,  while  it 
utters  only  the  declarations  of  truth. 

The  intrepid  pioneers,  therefore,  by  whose  instrumen- 
tality the  great  question  as  to  what  nation  of  Europe 
should  predominate  in  North  America,  justly  deserve 
to  be  held  in  grateful  remembrance  on  both  sides  of  the 
Atlantic.  Who  does*  not  rejoice  that  the  English 
tongue  has  become  the  universal  language  of  more 
than  twenty  millions  of  people,  and  that  our  institu- 
tions, which  received  their  germ  from  the  best  exam- 
ples of  Europe,  moulded  and  improved  by  the  succes- 
sive application  of  sound  principles,  aiming  to  promote 
the  general  welfare,  and  grown  into  a  wider  expansion 
both  of  civil  and  religious  liberty,  are  the  invaluable, 
undisputed  inheritance  of  our  land.  * '  By  their  fruits 
ye  shall  know  them.  Not  by  the  graceful  foliage 
which  dallies  with  the  summer's  breeze  ;  —  not  by  the 
flower  which  fades  with  the  perfume  which  it  scatters 
on  the  gale ;  —  but  by  the  golden,  perfect  fruit,  in  which 
the  mysterious  life  of  the  plant  is  garnered  up  ;  — 
which  the  genial  earth  and  kindling  sun  have  ripened 
into   the  refreshment  and  food  of  man,  and   which, 

*  Everett's  remarks  at  Plymouth,  Dec.  22, 1845, 


131 


even  when  it  perishes,  leaves  behind  it  the  germs  of 
continued  and  multiplied  existence.' 

Note.  Without  intending  to  justify  intolerance  in  any  form,  whether  of 
ancient  or  modern  date,  it  may  be  remarked,  that  much  of  what  is  charged 
upon  the  Fathers  as  such,  resulted  from  their  exposure  to  the  designs  often 
manifested  by  their  enemies  at  home  and  abroad,  to  overthrow  both  their 
civil  and  religious  mstitutions,  which  it  had  cost  them  so  much  labor  and 
hazard  to  establish,  and  which  owed  their  final  preservation  to  a  wonderful 
prudence  and  persevering  vigilance,  defeating  not  only  the  purposes  of  fac- 
tion, but  the  assumptions  of  royal  authority.  The  undue  restriction  of  indi- 
vidual freedom  seems  to  have  been  the  incident  rather  than  the  aim  of  their 
policy. 

With  respect  to  the  charge  of  injustice  towards  the  Indian  race,  we  quote 
the  remarks  of  James  Otis  to  Gov.  Barnard  in  1767.  '  The  Indians  had 
perfect  confidence  in  our  Fathers,  and  applied  to  them  in  all  their  difficulties. 
Nothing  has  been  omitted  which  justice  or  humanity  required.  We  ghry  in 
their  conduct ;  we  loast  of  it  as  unexampled.' 

This  is  not  the  place  to  discuss  the  question  of  the  right  of  the  aborigines  to 
the  entire  soil  of  New  England.  It  seems  proper  to  state,  however,  that  this 
right  was  recognized  by  the  Pilgrims,  and  we  are  able  to  trace,  on  our  re- 
cords, the  book  and  page  where  every  tract  of  land  was  duly  conveyed  by  the 
Indians,  according  to  the  forms  of  law.  If  it  be  said  that  the  consideration 
paid  was  merely  nominal,  it  may  be  answered,  that  land,  beyond  the  use, of 
mere  hunting,  was  estimated  very  differently  by  the  natives,  who  esteemed  it 
of  small  value,  except  for  that  purpose,  and  the  white  man,  who  desired  it  for 
permanent  cultivation.  In  reply  to  the  superficial  remarks  sometimes  made 
on  this  subject,  the  following  is  copied  from  the  Address  of  the  late  Hon. 
John  Quincy  Adams,  on  the  New  England  Confederacy.  '  The  whole  terri- 
tory of  New  England  was  thus  purchased,  for  valuable  consideration,  by  the 
new  comers,  and  the  Indian  title  was  extinguished  by  compact  fulfilling  the 
law  of  justice  between  man  and  man.  The  most  eminent  writer  on  the  law 
of  nations,  of  modem  times,  (Vattel)  has  paid  a  worthy  tribute  of  respect 
to  our  Forefathers,  for  their  rigid  observance,  in  this  respect,  of  the  natural 
right  of  the  indigenous  natives  of  the  country.  It  is  from  the  example 
of  the  New  England  Puritans  that  he  draws  the  preceptive  rule,  and  he 
awards  to  them  merited  honor  for  having  established  it.' 


132 


DESCRIPTION  OF  PLYMOUTH. 

*  They  sounded  the  harbor,  and  found  it  fit  for  shipping,  and  marched  into 
the  land  and  found  divers  corn  fields,  and  little  running  brooks,  a  place,  as 
they  supposed,  fit  for  situation.'  Morton. 

The  foregoing  pages  have  occupied  so  much  space, 
that  only  a  brief  account  of  Plymouth,  as  it  now  is, 
can  here  be  presented  to  the  reader. 

Plymouth  is  situated  in  north  latitude  (at  the  Court 
House,)  41%  57/,  6".     Longitude  from  Greenwich,  70% 

Its  Indian  name  was  Umpame,  written  Apaum,  in 
the  Colony  Records,  and  still  so  called  by  the  natives 
of  Massapee.     It  was  also  called  Patuxet. 

Bounds.  The  bounds  of  Plymouth  were  determined 
by  the  Colony  Court,  in  the  year  1640,  of  which  the 
following  is  a  description  : 

'  It  is  enacted  and  concluded  by  the  Court,  that  the 
bounds  of  Plymouth  township  shall  extend  southward 
to  the  bounds  of  Sandwich  township  ;  and  northward 
to  a  little  brook,  running  from  Stephen  Tracy's  to 
another  little  brook  falling  into  Blackwater ;  from  the 
commons  left  to  Duxbury,  and  the  neighborhood  there- 
about; and  westward  eight  miles  up  into  the  land, 
from  any  part  of  the  bay  or  sea ;  always  provided  that 
the  bounds  shall  extend  so  far  up  into  the  wood  lands 
as  to  include  the  south  meadows  towards  Agawam, 
lately  discovered,  and  the  convenient  uplands  there- 
about.' 

These  bounds  were  quite  extensive,  comprising  what 


Vle^-  of    the    To^^'TL    and 
Sari  or  of  PlvmoutlL  . 


133 


have  since  become  Plympton,  in  1707,  Kingston,  in 
1726,  and  part  of  Wareham,  with  Carver,  taken  from 
Plympton,  and  a  part  of  Halifax,  in  1734,  also  taken 
from  Plympton.  It  is  about  sixteen  miles  in  extent, 
from  north  to  south,  and  varies  from  four  and  a  half 
to  nine  in  width. 

Plymouth  is  built  along  the  sea-shore,  upon  a  mod- 
erate declivity  descending  from  an  extensive  pine  plain, 
about  one  fourth  of  a  mile  broad,  and  one  and  a  half 
miles  in  length. 

Face  and  quality  of  the  soil.  The  predominant 
growth  of  Ibrest  trees  is  Finns  tooda,  designating  a  soil 
of  third  rate  quality,  which  covers  much  the  greater 
part  of  the  township. 

A  ridge  of  elevated  pine  hills  commences  at  *'  Hither 
Manomet,'  (so  called  in  the  records)  within  its  limits 
on  the  sea,  and  terminates  at  Wood's  Hole,  27  miles, 
ranging  north  and  south,  through  Sandwich,  beyond 
which  they  assume  a  rocky  and  rugged  form,  near 
Falmouth.  The  most  elevated  height  in  this  ridge  is 
about  four  miles  from  the  Town  House  in  Plymouth, 
being  three  hundred  and  ninety-six  feet  in  height,  pre- 
senting an  extensive  and  sublime  prospect  of  ocean 
scenery. 

This  elevated  ridge  separates  the  first  precinct  or 
village  of  Manomet  Ponds  from  the  second  and  third 
precincts.  It  is  beautifully  situated,  commanding  a 
fine  view  of  the  bay,  and  is  surrounded  by  elevated 
heights,    and  preserves,   perhaps  to  this   day,   in    its 

*  Further  Manomet  Point,  as  seen  from  Sandmch,  is  a  bold  feature  in 
prospective,  from  every  part  of  the  Bay. 
12 


134 


habits  and  character,  as  much  of  the  sound  principle 
and  primitive  simplicity  of  ancient  times,  as  any  part 
of  our  country. 

Geology.  It  is  not  a  little  curious  that  one  loose 
rock  on  the  shore  of  Plymouth  Harbor  should  have 
become  so  famous  as  is  that  called  the '  Pilgi-im  Rock/ 
where  there  is  not  known  in  the  township  a  single  ledge, 
save  those  the  fisherman  reaches  with  his  lead  at  va- 
rious points  off  the  coast.  All  the  rocks  in  place  lie 
buried  beneath  an  unknown  thickness  of  sand,  gi'avel, 
and  clay  of  the  Drift  formation.  This  in  many  places 
is  at  least  200  feet  thick,  and  is  probably  nowhere  less 
than  40.  The  nearest  ledges  that  appear  are  in  Kings- 
ton, a  mile  or  more  over  the  line ;  and  they  are  of 
granite,  intersected  by  narrow  Trapdykes.  So  regular 
are  some  of  these  dykes,  as  exposed  in  the  cutting  of 
the  Rail  Road,  that  they  were  believed  by  many  to  be 
some  ancient  artificial  structure.  It  is  probable  that 
this  granitic  formation  extends  further  south  beneath 
the  drift,  but  from  this  point  to  Sandwich  and  round 
to  the  Cape,  the  writer  is  not  aware  that  any  ledge  is 
met  with. 

Spread  over  the  country  so  extensively,  the  peculiari- 
ties of  the  Drift  formation  are  perhaps  nowhere  better  de- 
veloped than  in  this  neighborhood.  The  broken  surface 
of  the  little  hills  is  the  counterpart,  on  the  large  scale, 
of  the  chopped  and  troubled  seas  that  break  against 
their  base.  No  deep  seated  action  has  stirred  up  the 
mass,  and  thrown  the  surface  into  the  regular  wave-like 
ridges  of  other  regions.  The  power  acting  on  the 
surface,  that  brought  together  and  spread  these  loose 


135 


materials,  has  scooped  out  the  hollows  between  the 
hills,  and  made  a  thousand  deep  depressions,  now 
occupied  by  as  many  lakes  and  ponds.  These,  of  every 
variety  of  form  and  size,  lie  scattered  here  and  there, 
or  grouped  together  in  the  pitch  pine  and  scrubby  oak 
woods.  Little  brooks,  flowing  clearly  over  their  sandy 
beds,  connect  one  with  another,  and  then  find  their  way 
to  the  sea-shore.  The  barrenness  of  this  geological 
formation  is  a  surety  that  the  singular  and  romantic 
beauty  it  has  given  to  the  environs  of  Plymouth  will 
not  soon  be  impaired  by  the  clearing  of  the  country. 

Plymouth  Harbor.  The  harbor  is  protected  by  a 
beach  three  miles  in  extent,  about  one  mile  from  the 
wharves.  This  beach  is  much  reduced  from  its  original 
width  by  the  inroads  of  the  sea.  It  was  originally 
well  wooded,  but  notwithstanding  the  fines  early 
imposed,  to  prevent  depredation,  the  trees  have  all 
disappeared.  Towards  the  northern  part  of  it,  within 
60  or  70  years,  there  was  a  thick  swamp  covered  with 
pine,  cherry  and  other  trees.  It  abounded  also  with 
beach  plums  and  grapes.  In  1764  two  small  breaches 
were  made  by  the  sea  near  this  swamp,  requiring  £20 
for  repairs.  Dec.  25,  1778,  a  severe  storm  greatly  in- 
creased these  breaches,  and  a  hedge  fence  was  made 
for  its  protection.  In  1784  a  heavy  gale,  with  a  high 
tide,  carried  off  most  of  the  trees.  In  1785,  the  gen- 
eral court  made  a  conditional  grant  of  500  pounds, 
but  through  inability  the  town  could  not  comply  with 
its  conditions.  In  1806,  a  township  of  land  was 
granted,  on  condition  that  the  town  raise  $5,000  for 
repairing  the  Beach.     In  1812  a  lottery  was  granted, 


136 


the  proceeds  of  which,  amounting  to  §16,000,  were 
applied  for  repairs.  Previous  to  the  year  1806,  more 
than  §40,000  had  been  expended  without  any  aid  from 
Government.  An  appropriation  made  by  the  General 
Government^  in  1824  and  1825,  of  $43,566,  which  sum 
was  judiciously  expended  under  the  direction  of  Lieut. 
Chase  and  Col.  Totten,  of  the  United  States  Engineer 
Department,  has  resulted  in  the  preservation  of  this 
important  barrier  to  the  ocean,  which  otherwise  must 
long  since  have  been  nearly  destroyed.  It  still  requires 
vigilant  attention. 

The  severe  storm  in  April  last,  combined  w4th  the 
high  course  of  tides  —  occurring  at  the  same  time  — 
occasioned  considerable  injury  near  the  southerly  part 
of  the  beach.  An  appropriation  of  one  thousand 
dollars,  was  made  for  repairs  by  the  town,  which  it  is 
hoped  will  '  strengthen  the  things  that  remain,'  till 
the  Government  shall  interpose  to.  render  this  barrier 
against  the  oc-ean  entirely  secure  and  permanent. 

The  Gurnet,  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  contains 
about  27  acres  of  good  land.  Of  the  original  gro\\i;h 
of  wood  nothing  remains.  It  is  the  extreme  point  af 
Marshfield  beach  and  distant  from  the  main  land  about 
seven  miles.  A  light  house  was  erected  by  the  then 
Province  of  Massachusetts,  on  this  point,  in  1768, 
costing  .£660.  17s.,  which  was  consumed  by  fire  on 
July  2d,  1801 ;  and  that  now  standing  was  erected  by 
the  United  States  in  1803.  It  has  two  lights,  about 
70  feet  above  the  sea. 

Sayquish,  an  Indian  name  signifying  clams,  is  a 
head  land,  connected  with  the  Gurnet  by  a  narrow 


137 


neck,  and  contains  about  14  acres.  Between  the 
Gurnet  and  the  western  point  of  Saquish,  the  cove  is 
formed,  which  was  'full  of  breakers,'  from  which  the 
Shallop  of  the  Pilgrims  when  driven  by  tempest,  nar- 
rowly escaped  destruction.  At  Stage  Point,  within 
this  cove,  Mr.  William  Paddy  and  Mr.  John  Hewes 
erected  fishing  stages  about  the  year  1643,  near  which 
Bass  were  seined.  Clark's  Island,  a  little  to  the  north 
of  Sayquish,  has  already  been  described. 

Cow  Yard.  This  place,  from  the  arrival  of  the 
Mayflower  to  the  present  time,  has  served  as  a  most 
convenient  place  of  anchorage,  between  Beach  Point 
and  Clark's  Island  ;  distant  from  town  1^  miles.  The 
name  arose  from  the  fact  that  a  cow  whale  was  taken 
there  in  early  times. 

Brown's  Island  is  about  one-half  a  mile  N.  by  east 
of  Beach  Point.  Though  now  under  water,  it  was 
no  doubt  covered  with  trees,  when  the  Pilgi'ims  arrived, 
and  was  one  of  the  '  two  islands '  of  the  harbor,  men- 
tioned in  their  first  history.  This  is  confirmed  by  the 
statements  of  elderly  persons  now  living,  Avho  in  their 
early  days  discovered  the  stumps  of  trees  there.  The 
Island  being  so  near  the  anchorage  ground  of  all 
strangers  who  visited  New  England  for  many  years, 
the  trees  were  perhaps  soon  converted  into  fire-wood, 
leaving  it  exposed  to  a  rapid  destruction  from  the 
violence  of  easterly  storms.  Its  name  was  probably 
derived  from  Peter  Brown,  who  came  in  the  Mayflower, 
as  there  was  no  person  then  living  in  the  colony  so 
likely  to  give  it  that  name.  According  to  Gov.  Win- 
throp,  Oct.  6,  1635,  two  shallops  were  cast  away  upon 

12* 


138 


'  Brown's  Island,'  near  the  Gurnet's  nose,  and  the  men 
on  board  were  all  drowned. 

Ponds.  The  number  of  ponds  in  Plymouth  is  esti- 
mated at  200,  and  the  map  of  Plymouth,  by  S.  Bourne, 
Esq.,  contains  about  120 :  a  considerable  portion  of 
which  would,  in  most  other  parts  of  our  country,  be  de- 
signated as  lakes.  They  cover,  as  is  generally  estimated, 
3,000  acres  in  extent.  The  most  attractive  of  these,  are 
BilUngton  tSea,  already  described.  South  Pond,  four 
miles  from  town,  abounding  with  white  and  red  perch. 
Murdoch'' s  Pond  is  a  quarter  of  a  mile  west  of  the 
village.  Half-way  Pond  is  10  miles  southerly.  White 
Island  Pond  is  north-westerly  of  the  last  named,  and 
covers  about  600  acres.  Great  Herring  Pond  is  15 
miles  south,  on  the  borders  of  Sandwich.  Long  Pond, 
2  miles  in  length,  6  miles  from  town.  Clam  Pudding 
Pond  is  7  miles  south,  on  the  Sandwich  road. 

The  general  features  and  scenery  of  these  lakes  are 
picturesque  and  beautiful,  affording  the  most  agreeable 
resorts  in  summer,  for  fishing  and  other  amusements. 

Hills.  Pinnacle  Hill  is  near  South  Pond.  Sentry 
and  Indian  Hill  are  on  the  sea-shore  of  Manomet. 

Paukopunnaktick  is  the  Indian  name  of  a  hill  called 
Breakheart  Hill  by  the  early  planters.  It  is  10  miles 
from  town,  on  the  formerly  travelled  Sandwich  road. 
The  name  was  appropriately  applied  at  a  period  in 
our  early  history,  when  Governors  and  other  officers  of 
Government,  travelled  on  foot  from  Cape  Cod  and 
back  again,  in  the  discharge  of  their  arduous  duties  to 
the  country. 

Monks  Hill  is  a  few  miles  from  town,  within  the 


139 


bounds  of  Kingston.  It  rises  313  feet  above  the  ocean, 
in  the  midst  of  a  widely  extended  forest,  and  com- 
mands a  fine  view  of  the  ocean  and  interior.  It  is 
called  in  the  Old  Colony  Records,  '  Monts  Hill  Chase,' 
a  name  supposed  to  have  been  applied  to  a  hunt  in 
England.* 

Mountain  Hill  is  near  goose  point.  Sparrovj^s  Hill,  2 
miles  from  town,  derives  its  name  from  Richard 
Sparrow,  who  was  an  early  settler  and  had  land 
assigned  him  there.  He  moved  to  Eastham  and  died 
there  about  1660. 

'  Steart's  Hill,'  so  called  by  the  first  planters,  is 
directly  below  the  farm  now  owned  by  Mr.  Barnabas 
Hedge,  on  the  sea  shore,  and  is  supposed  to  have  been 
named  'from  Start's  Point,  a  place  near  Plymouth  in 
England.'  The  house  of  Gov.  Prence  stood  a  little 
south  of  that  occupied  by  Mr.  Hedge,  and  the  place 
was  called  Plain  Dealing,  which  name  extended,  it  is 
believed,  to  Kingston  line.  It  would  seem  desirable  to 
revive  this  ancient  name,  of  a  place  which  was  owned 
at  different  times  by  several  distinguished  men  among 
the  first  planters. 

Brooks.  These  are  five  in  number,  on  the  north 
side  of  the  town.  Near  the  3d  brook  dwelt  Deacon 
Hirst,  in  1640,  who  there  established  the  first  Tannery 
in  Plymouth. 

Wellingsly  Brook  is  half  a  mile  south  of  the  town, 

*  The  author  of  '  New  England  Wars,'  whose  youthful  footsteps  so  often 
traversed  the  -woodland  scenery  of  his  native  hills,  has  availed  himself  of 
this  spot  as  the  place  of  interview  between  a  venerable  Puritan,  whose 
daughter  had  been  taken  captive  by  the  Indians,  and  King  Philip,  the  re- 
nowned warrior  of  Pokanoket. 


140 


where  Secretary  Morton  dwelt,  and  justly  claims  his- 
torical interest,  in  connection  with  his  valuable  labors? 
in  compiling  the  history  of  New  England  and  our 
early  church  records,  and  recording  the  transactions  of 
the  commissioners  of  the  United  Colonies. 

Eel  River,  about  3  miles  south-east  of  the  town, 
was  so  named  from  the  abundant  supply  of  eels  it 
affords.  Near  it,  on  both  sides  the  river,  was  a  garrison 
house  during  PhiUp's  war.  The  house  which  stood 
near  that  now  owned  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Whittemore, 
was  occupied  by  William  Clark,  and  on  Sunday,  the 
12th  of  March,  1676,  it  was  attacked  by  the  Indians, 
and  eleven  persons  were  killed  and  several  houses 
burnt.  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  this  was  the  only 
serious  attack  made  on  Plymouth  by  the  Indians, 
though  it  had  frequently  been  threatened  during  its 
early  history. 

Elder  Faunce  resided  on  the  road  leading  to  Eel 
River  Bridge,  and  his  amiable  character  and  great  age 
attracted  many  distinguished  visitors  on  their  way  to 
and  from  the  Cape. 

Town  Records.  These  were  commenced  in  1638, 
at  which  time  no  settlement  had  been  made  beyond 
the  town  limits  —  and  the  Old  Colony  Records  con- 
tain most  of  the  municipal  regulations  which  were 
previously  adopted.  The  first  entry  in  the  Town  Re- 
cords relates  to  a  division  of  cattle  which  had  consider- 
ably increased  from  a  single  heifer,  given  in  1624,  to 
begin  a  stock  for  the  poor,  by  James  Shirley.  Mr. 
Shuiey  was  one  of  the  Merchant  Adventurers  of  Lon- 
don, an  influential  and  devoted  friend  of  the  Colony, 


141 


as  appears  from  his  correspondence  with  Gov.  Brad- 
ford. It  would  be  gratifying  to  learn  more  of  this 
early  benefactor  of  Plymouth,  than  history  yet  affords. 
It  is  also  desirable,  that  the  recommendation  of  Judge 
Davis,  in  a  note  to  the  Memorial,  should  be  executed 
by  the  town,  in  designating  some  sti-eet  or  square  by 
his  name  in  token  of  grateful  remembrance.  The 
records  of  the  town  are  plainly  \\Titten,  and  in  a  good 
state  of  preservation. 

The  Old  Colony  Rail  Road.  The  completion 
and  opening  of  this  Road  occurred  on  the  8th  of  Nov., 
1845,  and  it  is  now  well  patronised  by  the  public. 
The  distances  from  Boston,  on  the  road,  are  as  fol- 
lows :  Dorchester,  4  miles ;  Neponset,  5  1-2  ;  Quincy, 
8  ;  N.  Braintree,  10 ;  S.  Braintree,  11 ;  S.  Weymouth, 
15 ;  N.  Abington,  18 ;  Abington,  19  1-4 ;  S.  Abing- 
ton,  21 ;  N.  Hanson,  23  1-4 ;  Hanson,  24  3-4 ;  Hali- 
fax, 28 ;  Plympton,  30  ;  Kingston,  33  1-4 ;  Plymouth, 
37  1-2  miles. 

Hotels.  The  Samoset  Hotel,  erected  by  the  Rail 
Road  proprietors,  occupies  a  most  favorable  situation, 
at  the  end  of  Court  Street,  directly  opposite  the  depot. 
It  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  harbor,  bay,  and  sur- 
rounding highlands.  In  the  rear,  at  a  short  distance, 
it  has  the  attractions  of  hill  and  woodland  scenery, 
affording  agreeable  and  convenient  walks.  It  is  50  by 
80  feet,  constructed  in  a  handsome  style  of  architec- 
ture, and  of  perfect  finish  in  every  part.  The  sleeping 
apartments  are  pleasantly  situated,  and  well  contrived 
and  furnished  in  every  respect  to  promote  the  comfort 
of  visitors, 


142 


There  are  three  other  public  houses,  —  one  kept  by- 
Mr.  John  Bradford,  in  Ley  den  Street,  —  another  (the 
Mansion  House,)  by  Mr.  N.  W.  Perry,  at  the  corner  of 
Main  and  North  Streets,  —  and  the  third  by  Mrs. 
Catherine  Burgess,  in  the  house  belonging  to  the  heirs 
of  the  late  Joshua  Thomas,  Esq. 

Finances,  &c.  The  whole  amount  of  taxable  Real 
Estate,  May  1st,  1851,  was  $1,492,466;  and  of  person- 
al Estate  $1,096,000 ;  total,  $2,588,466.  The  amount 
of  Town  Tax  in  1851  was  $18,273.36,  of  which  sum 
$7,000  were  appropriated  for  the  support  of  schools, 
and  apportioned  among  1337  children,  from  the  age 
of  5  to  15  years,  arranged  in  16  school  districts. 

Manufactures.  The  following  statement  is  ex- 
tracted from  the  returns  of  the  Marshal,  dated  June  1, 
1850. 

Robbins  Cordage  Co.,  annual  product  750  tons 
tarred  cordage  and  manilla,  valued  at  $160,000,  48 
hands  employed ;  Plymouth  Cordage  Co.,  annual  pro- 
duct 800  tons  cordage,  valued  at  $180,000,  70  hands 
employed ;  Holmes  &  Barrows'  Cordage  Co.,  annual 
product  53  tons  cordage,  valued  at  $10,000,  11  hands 
employed ;  Benj.  Diman,  cordage,  lines  and  twine  val- 
ued at  $2,500,  3  hands  employed ;  Charles  B.  Irish, 
cordage,  lines  and  twine  valued  at  $3,800,  5  hands 
employed  ;  Robert  Cowen,  cordage,  lines  and  twine 
valued  at  $4,250,  5  hands  employed ;  Plymouth  Wool 
and  Cotton  Factory,  duck  valued  at  $80,000,  80  hands 
employed;  Nathaniel  Russell  &  Co.'s  Iron  Works, 
nails,  plates,  rods,  &c.,  valued  at  $95,000, 50  hands  em- 
ployed ;  all  other  kinds  of  iron  manufactures  valued  at 


143 


$56,000,  37  hands  employed ;  Boot  and  Shoe  Manvfac- 
tories —  S.  Blake  &  Co.,  120,000  pairs  boots  and  shoes, 
value  $85,000,  200  hands,  male  and  female ;  Dunham 
&  Lamman,  21,600  pairs  boots  and  shoes,  value  $25, 
000,  30  hands,  male  and  female ;  Daniel  J.  Lane,  100, 
000  pairs  boots  and  shoes,  value  $60,000,  160  hands, 
male  and  female ;  Benj.  Bramhall,  1,000  pairs  boots, 
value  $2,500 ;  John  Washburn,  stoves  and  tin  ware 
valued  at  $6,000,  4  hands  employed;  Wm.  R.  Drew, 
stoves  and  tin  ware  valued  at  $8,000,  7  hands  em- 
ployed. 

Fisheries.  The  number  of  vessels  engaged  in  the 
cod  fishery,  the  present  year,  is  45 ;  tonnage  3,375. 
The  freighting  vessels,  engaged  in  foreign  commerce, 
owned  by  the  citizens  of  Plymouth,  to  a  considerable 
extent,  are  fitted  out  in  Boston  and  New  York. 

Census  of  Plymouth  at  Different  Periods.  In 
a  work  on  New  England,  by  Capt.  John  Smith,  pub- 
lished in  1631,  which  may  be  found  in  the  Massachu- 
setts Historical  Collections,  vol.  3,  3d  series,  he  says, 
under  date  of  1624 ;  '  In  the  plantation  there  is  about 
one  hundred  and  four  score  persons,  some  cattle,  but 
many  swine  and  poultry.'  In  1629,  when  the  colony 
charter  was  granted,  the  number  of  inhabitants  men- 
tioned in  that  instrument  was  300,  and  Smith,  before 
quoted,  when  speaking  of  Gov.  Winthrop's  colony,  in 
1631,  estimates  the  number  in  Plymouth  at  between 
fom*  and  five  hundred  persons.  De  Rasieres,  in  1627, 
stated  the  number  of  houses  at  fifty. 

In  1701  a  division  of  lands  was  made  among  201 
freeholders  of  Plymouth.     Estimating  their  families  at 


144 


6  each,  the  population  would  be  1,206,  an  estimate 
probably  not  far  from  the  truth.  In  1643,  the  males 
from  16  to  60  years  of  age,  capable  of  bearing  arms, 
were  146.  One  in  the  score  was  the  rate  of  military 
service.  In  1646,  the  Freemen  and  Townsmen  (voters) 
were  79  ;  1670,  51 ;  1683,  5b  ;  1689,  75. 

In  1764,  including  77  colored  persons  and  48  Indians, 
the  number  of  inhabitants  was  2,225 ;  1776,  2,655 ; 
1783,  2,380.  According  to  the  United  States  census 
in  1790,  2,995  ;  1800,  3,524;  1810,  4,228  ;  1820,  4,348 ; 
1830,  4,758;  1840,  5,281.  The  population,  as  returned 
June  1,  1850,  was  6,026. 

The  number  of  dwelling  houses,  including  those  at 
Manomet  ponds,  is  877. 

Public  Buildings.  The  Court  House,  standing  in 
Court  Square,  (in  early  times  called  Framing  Green,) 
was  built  in  1820,  and  is  fitted  up  in  the  best  manner, 
for  accommodating  the  courts  of  law,  and  the  public 
officers  of  the  county ;  having  fire-proof  apartments 
for  the  safe  keeping  of  records.  The  jail  and  dwelling- 
house  attached  to  it,  were  built  about  the  same  time. 
The  first  prison  was  erected  in  1641,  and  was  22  feet 
by  16,  two  stories  high,  and  stood  near  Prison  Brook, 
in  Summer  Street,  where  the  house  lately  owned  by 
Nathaniel  Russell,  Esq.,  stands.  The  second  jail  stood 
in  the  same  street,  on  the  lot  owned  by  Capt.  Icha- 
bod  Davie ;  and  the  third  where  the  Court  House 
above  described,  stands.  It  is  gi-atifying  to  remark, 
that  though  the  size  of  these  necessary  instruments  of 
terror  to  evil  doers,  has  been  successively  enlarged, 
there  seems  to  have  been,  for  many  years  past,  less 
occasion  for  their  use. 


145 


The  Town  House  is  situated  in  Town  Square.  The 
Alms  House,  built  of  brick,  is  situated  on  Town  Brook. 
Pilgrim  Hall  has  been  already  described. 

Churches.  There  are  two  Congregational  Societies 
in  the  village, —  one  at  Monomet  Ponds,  one  at  Eel 
River ;  one  Episcopalian,  one  Baptist,  one  Universal- 
ist,  and  one  Christian  Society. 


Errata.— The  date  of  the  deaths  of  Rose  Standish  and  Wm.  Mnlh'ns,  p. 
12  ,  should  read  1621  instead  1620— Edward  Everett's  Oration  of  Dec.  20, 
1826,  p.  26,  should  read  Dec.  22nd,  1824— The  age  of  Hon.  John  Howland, 
as  named  on  p.  42,  should  read  in  the  95th  instead  of  the  89th— The  name  of 
Wm.  Croio^  on  p.  42,  should  read  Wm.  Crowe— ThQ  aggregate,  64,735,  on  p. 
97,  should  read  64,835. 


Note.— The  length  of  Leyden  Street,  as  mentioned  by  De  Easieres,  in 
his  letter,  p.  116,  is  erroneous,  the  actual  measurement  being  385  yards . 
There  seems  also  an  error,  p.  114,  in  the  estimated  width  of  the  Sand  Bank, 
or  Beach,  no  part  of  which  is  even  now  so  narrow  as  20  paces. 


13 


APPENDIX. 


EARLY  CORRESPONDENCE  OF  THE  PILGRIMS. 

The  following  letters  have  been  obtained,  by  special  request,  from  the  ven- 
erable Judge  Mitchell,  of  Bridgewater,  whose  well  known  research  has  so 
greatly  promoted  the  illustration  of  our  early  history.  The  early  domestic 
correspondence  between  the  Pilgrims  is  mostly  lost,  and  for  that  reason 
alone  to  say  nothing  of  the  excellent  spirit  they  manifest,  these  letters  are 
highly  interesting.  The  note  of  explanation,  which  follows  the  letters,  was 
prepared  by  Judge  Mitchell. 
Loving  and  kind  Uncle  — 

My  hearty  and  kind  salutation  I  do  here  desire  to  tender  unto  you, 
hoping  and  wishing  your  and  3'dur's  well  being  both  in  soul  and  body.  I 
shall  here  communicate  unto  you  a  !<ad  dispensation  of  the  Lord  toward  me,  in 
the  taking  away  from  me  out  of  this  life  my  most  dear  and  tender  mother, 
the  which  unto  me  indeed  is  a  great  loss,  not  only  missing  her  most  tender 
afiection  to  me  and  over  me,  the  which  is  very  much,  but  also  the  godly 
example  of  piety,  by  the  which,  as  by  her  counsel  and  godly  persuasions 
she  did  labor  to  bring  me.  and  us  all  here  with  her,  to  see  and  experience 
more  and  more  the  sweetness  of  walking  in  the  ways  of  God,  in  obeying  of 
him  and  in  keeping  close  unto  him,  the  missing  of  which  you  may  easily 
judge  cannot  but  be  sad  unto  us  here.  Nevertheless  we  do  desire,  seeing  it 
thus  is  the  will  of  our  God  to  administer  unto  us,  having  appointed  unto  all 
once  to  die,  to  labor  to  be  contented,  and  to  submit  unto  the  will  of  our  God 
considering  the  goodness  of  the  Almighty  even  in  this  providence,  the  which, 
had  it  been  long  before,  would  have  been  moi'e  sad,  in  respect  of  my  minority 
and  young  years ;  it  being  always  her  desire  to  see  me  to  come  to  age  before 
she  should  depart  this  life,  the  which  mercy  the  Lord  hath  granted  unto  us, 
for  I  am  now  23  years  of  age,  and  able  sundry  years  ago,  through  the  mercy 
and  goodness  of  the  Lord  my  God,  to  subsist  in  the  world  by  my  father's 
trade,  the  which  indeed  is  a  good  consideration,  and  gives  me  occasion  to 
awaken  my  soul  and  yet  to  be  thankful  to  God,  especially  when  I  mind  the 
sadness  she  was  in  of  late  being  very  weakly,  out  of  which  the  Lord  has  de- 
livered her,  having  taken  her  out  of  this  sad  and  toilsome  life,  a  world  of 
misery,  and  has  brought  her  to  the  kingdom  of  his  dear  son,  to  an  inheritance, 
immortal  in  light.  She  deceased  this  life  on  the  25  March,  1662.  Thus, 
most  loving  uncle,  I  have  communicated  my  sad  thoughts,  and  do  further  ao- 
quaint  you,  that  I  have  received  a  letter  from  you,  bearing  date  23  April, 
1661,  in  the  which  I  understand  concerning  all  your  healths,  at  the  hearing  of 
which  I  am  very  glad.  I  do  also  wish  my  cousin  Elizabeth  much  joy  with 
her  daughter  that  God  has  given  her  to  her  6  sons.  I  do  also  wish  my  cousm 
Sarah  much  joy  in  her  married  estate.  And  as  touching  your  enclosed  letter, 
for  Mr.  Preserved  May,  I  have  delivered  it  and  do  return  an  answer.  And  now 
as  touching  my  two  sisters,  and  their  husbands  and  children,  they  are  well, 
and  do  most  heartily  remember  their  loves  unto  you  and  their  cousins,  and  I 
pray  remember  m.e  most  kindly  to  your  wife  and  unto  all  my  loving  cousins,  the 
which  by  name  I  cannot.  I  also 'pray  you.  Uncle,  do  so  much  as  to  present 
my  respicts  and  my  sisters'  and  their  husbands'  to  my  aunt  Jean  Gunn  and 
my  cousin  Joseph,  and  acquaint  her  concerning  my  dear  mother's  departing. 
I  would  have  writ  to  her  also,  but  I  wanted  time,  the  ship  being  to  go  away ; 


148 


and  pray  my  Aunt  and  cousin  to  write  and  not  to  fail.  And  I  pray  do  you 
also  not  fail  to  write,  and  so,  commending  you  all  to  the  Lord's  tuition,  I 
rest  and  remain  wherever  I  am. 

Your  very  loving  cousin, 

In  Amsterdam,  24  July  1662.  THOMAS  MITCHKLL. 

Uncle,  yet  a  word,  the  which  perhaps  you  have  not  heard  of,  the  which  is 
the  decase  of  ^Ir.  John  May,  and  Uncle  Dickens,  who  died  both  about  half 
a  year  since. 

The  superscription  is  '  For  to  be  delivered  unto  his  loving  uncle  Mr.  Ex- 
perience Mitchell,  dwelling  in  Duxbury  town,  New  England.     To  be  sent.' 

[Written  probably  in  the  early  part  of  1690,] 
Loving  cousin,  Edward  Mitchell. 

Sir.  Your  letters  of  July  and  October  1689  are  come  well  to  hand, 
and  I  am  very  glad  to  hear  of  your  welfare,  as  also  that  there  is  a  way  dis- 
covered of  sending  letters  with  much  more  security  of  not  mishearing  than 
heretofore,  for  truly  it  cannot  but  be  a  desirable  thing  for  friends  to  converse 
one  with  another,  the  which,  when  it  cannot  be  personal,  as  ours  cannot. 
Providence  having  otherwise  disposed  of  the  bounds  of  our  habitations,  then 
to  supply  by  letter  what  cannot  otherwise  be  done.  And  the  more  desirable 
is  it  to  maintain  correspondence  with  such  as  are  not  alone  tied  in  friendship 
together  by  the  bonds  of  nature,  but  have  besides  that,  and  above  that,  a 
better  and  nearer,  yea  a  la«stinger  nearness  and  relation  one  unto  another,  to 
wit,  such  as  are  children  of  one  father,  have  one  Saviour,  and  life  by  one 
Spirit,  being  by  the  same  all  joined  together  to  that  one  body  whereof  Christ 
our  Lord  is  head,  and  have  all  one  divine  nature,  and  shall  all  meet  together 
and  be  ever  with  the  Lord.  These  things  unite  better  than  natural  ties,  and 
truly — [wanting] — for  in  your  lines  I  perceived  a  favoring  and  a  relishing  of 
the  things  of  God.  The  Lord  maintain,  keep  up,  and  perfect  the  good  work 
he  hath  begun,  and  that  to  the  day  of  the  Lord.  Your  kind  token,  the  ot- 
ter's skin,  I  received,  and  thank  you  heartily  for  it.  As  for  trade  together 
I  at  present  say  only  this  to  it,  that  there  requires  more  estate  than  I  have ; 
besides  that  little  that  God  in  his  mercy  hath  given  me  is  employed  in  a 
stocking  trade  ;  but  that  which  is  of  great  consideration  also  is,  that  I  am 
informed  there  are  sometimes,  great  losses  by  New  England  commodities. 
This  is  all  I  can  say  to  it  at  present,  but  if  time  should  present — [the  rest  of 
the  letter  is  wanting,  but  there  is  on  the  back  of  it  the  following  postscript.] 

Cousin,  I  here,  by  Mr.  John  Carter  send  you  two  fowling  pieces,  they 
say  very  good  and  exact.  They  cost  eleven  gilders  a  piece  ;  the  one  accept 
as  a  token.  As  to  the  estate  of  things  in  Europe,  they  are  full  of  confusion, 
and  it  looks  bad  with  religion.  But  the  time  is  comfng,  when  God  has  ac- 
complished his  work  on  Mount  Zion,  that  he  will  reckon  with  their  and  his 
enemies,  and  then  will  their  deliverance  be.     Even  so  let  it  be,  O  Lord. 

One  more  farewell  in  the  Lord.  THOMAS  MITCHELL. 

The  two  foregoing  letters  were  copied  from  the  originals,  in  the  hands  of 
William  Mitchell,  now  (March  9,  1851,)  living  in  Bridgevvater,  in  his  91st 
year,  and  who  is  of  the  6th  generation  from  Experience,  inclusive.  Copied 
by  N.  M.,  who  is  in  his  83rd  year,  and  of  the  5th  generation  from  Experience, 
inclusive. 

Experience  lived  and  died  at  Joppa,  in  E.  Bridgevvater,  and  on  the  farm 
now  owned  by  Charles  Mitchell,  great,  great  grandson  of  Experience,  and 
which  has  remained  in  the  familv  from  the  beginning;  each  descendant 
before  Charles,  viz. ;  Edward,  Edward,  Gushing,  lived  and  died  on  the  same 
farm,  and  the  wills  of  all,  Experience  included,  are  preserved. 


